Polishing Black C6 Vette - Questioning decisions

Typically for me, I will change out a pad after every 1-2 panels (ie: fender, door) Especially when compounding. Heat will kill pads quicker than anything. They can delaminate, collapse, etc. But if you are only doing a couple sections at a time after work, then a handful should work. Just make sure to clean them for your following session.
 
EDIT: Nevermind, I see the 085rd is same as SI1500/PO83 Menzerna SIP - Super Intensive Polish PO83



SIP? SI1500? IP2000? either/or?
What is 085rd?
Thanks!

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I think 85rd is called sf 4500 now.
 
Should I use the Blue Hydrofoam pad with FG400 to start to address this haze/scratches from the V32 and Orange hex Pad? Or another combination? Tangerine/FG400, SI1500, etc?
 
Should I use the Blue Hydrofoam pad with FG400 to start to address this haze/scratches from the V32 and Orange hex Pad? Or another combination? Tangerine/FG400, SI1500, etc?

Try the tangerine first. If that's not cutting enough for you, then step up to the cyan. Both of those finish really nice. Just make sure you run FG400 through its Entire buffing cycle. You might just finish LSP ready.
 
Try the tangerine first. If that's not cutting enough for you, then step up to the cyan. Both of those finish really nice. Just make sure you run FG400 through its Entire buffing cycle. You might just finish LSP ready.

Thanks for the feedback. I had done the job before seeing your response, but I ran the Cyan. I actually was cycling a couple Hydrofoam Cyan pads and a 5" Orange Hex Logic. The Tangerine pads hadn't come in and I had some time to work on it so that's what I did.

Results were incredible. I had to go over the decklid areas twice where I used the CG V32 to clean up the haze, but I was ecstatic with how it was coming out. It looked perfect, except for rock chips, under the fluorescent lights. When I pulled it out into the sun, I could see some minimal hazing and some areas were just a hint of polish was left behind. Next I'll try to finish it with the SF4000 and a White Hex pad (still waiting on the Tangerine pads). Was debating on going to the SI1500, but I think its close to seal ready. BTW, what is LSP?

In the meantime, I used FG400 on my wife's Black Trailblazer SS. The paint on that was a disaster compared to the Vette (daily driver). I really only had about 10-12 hours to do the whole project, so I went right from FG to Power Lock. It looked a lot better than it did. The thing I noticed about the sealant (and maybe this is already common knowledge), it does little for "filling". The areas in front of the rear wheels are pretty white from all the rock chips, and the hood is chipped up too, thing has like 170k on the clock and she must follow every tractor trailer in the state. Last year before really getting into art/science of detailing, I wax half the hood with an OTC "black" wax, and the other with Mothers Synwax FX. The black wax looked noticeably better and stayed that way for a while. I'm thinking I'll wash and clay it again when time permits, seal again and try another black wax or the Pinnacle carnauba that I have.

Anyways, something I personally noticed about the pads while working on the Vette. The Hex pad seemed to be more user friendly, at least with the method I was using. Two of the Cyan pads collapsed in the center and had so much heat build up, I could touch the back plate. Maybe it wasn't enough polish, but it seemed more like build up. I'd swap them every 2 or 3 polish cycles and hit them with a shot of XMT Pad Conditioner frequently, but it seemed the further along I went into the project, the worse it got until the centers collapsed from apparent heat.... but the one Hex pad I had is still okay.

I'll also add a quick observation on polishers. Before I realized the heat was coming from the pads, I thought my Griot's polisher was melting down. So I opened up the box to the Porter Cable and thought I'd give it a shot. I have to say, I like the Griot's polisher better. The speed settings seemed more linear and the Groits felt a little smoother to me. I also felt the handle position on the Groits polisher was more comfortable than the side handle on the PC... especially when working down on the rocker panels of a lowered Vette. The garage floor is very close. It could very well be that I had already used the Groits on a Crew Cab truck and most of the Vette so I was just good and used to it by this point. But those were my thoughts.

So can't thank everyone enough for your replies to this post and the PM's I received. Menzerna is my new best friend. Considering any vehicle I'd probably come in contact with would be GM, I'm looking forward to using it quite a bit.
 
Anyways, something I personally noticed about the pads while working on the Vette. The Hex pad seemed to be more user friendly, at least with the method I was using. Two of the Cyan pads collapsed in the center and had so much heat build up, I could touch the back plate. Maybe it wasn't enough polish, but it seemed more like build up. I'd swap them every 2 or 3 polish cycles and hit them with a shot of XMT Pad Conditioner frequently, but it seemed the further along I went into the project, the worse it got until the centers collapsed from apparent heat.... but the one Hex pad I had is still okay.

Did you do anything to clean the pads while you were polishing? Most refer to it as "cleaning on the fly" and either do it with a pad brush or a terry towel. A quick search on here should give several results from Mike P on how it's done. After each section the pad should be "cleaned" or swapped out to prevent product and heat build up like you described. That's why many have so many pads. Perhaps the Hex pad is made from a foam that is more tolerant of heat than the HT pads.

Either way, it's good to hear that you achieved results that you were happy with. :xyxthumbs:
 
Did you do anything to clean the pads while you were polishing? Most refer to it as "cleaning on the fly" and either do it with a pad brush or a terry towel. A quick search on here should give several results from Mike P on how it's done. After each section the pad should be "cleaned" or swapped out to prevent product and heat build up like you described. That's why many have so many pads. Perhaps the Hex pad is made from a foam that is more tolerant of heat than the HT pads.

Either way, it's good to hear that you achieved results that you were happy with. :xyxthumbs:

I wasn't religiously cleaning them after every section. I would wipe them with a microfiber when I thought they started feeling warm, but I didn't really see too much compound coming off so I thought it might not be doing anything. I'll check out some examples of properly cleaning and keep that in mind. Id seemed like the Hex pads resisted the buildup or the heat or both a little better than the hydrofoam pads.

Pictures?? Glad you are getting great results

Here's some pictures. Last weekend I pulled the car out of the garage and pressure washed the dust that was adhering to the surfaces. Leaf blower dried to bulk of the water off. Other than that I used Infinite Detailer to clean a little dust off to take these pictures. With the flash light I see some light swirls and also see some water spots. I didn't see that before so maybe a result of clean the dust or wiping down for pictures... or maybe it all just didn't come out and is more visible with the flash light. The scratchy haze from the V32 is gone though. Hopefully a finish polish with clean this up and I get seal and wax on it. Not a lot of time to work on it and I hate having no protection on it.


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Best color pad for the Finish Polish stage?

I used the FG400 / Orange Hex Pad, Then SI1500 / Hex Green Hex Pad

I'm ready to go to SF4500 and am thinking Blue Hex Pad. I spent 4 hours last night reading and hemming and hawing about this rather than just doing it. Best color pad in the CG Hex Logic/Buff and Shine foam line up for the Finish Polish stage?
 
CG compounds and polishes don't seem to finish down too well.
 
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