Your choice LC pads?: Hybrids or Hydro-Tech

[Hoytman]

Above all, which machine are you trying to outfit them with?

Was just asking a general question. I either didn't realize or had forgotten, I probably forgot, that there were 2 categories of LC pads starting with "H". Somehow I got the two confused.

I use a rotary and a G110V2 and will enventually get a 3401 as well as a long stroke da.

I think the hydrotech line works best with diminishing abrasives(Menzerna, etc..)

Thanks for that information, Mark.


I have/use plenty of Lake Country flat pads, CCS pads 5.5 &(spot buffs too), and Meguiar's pads. Haven't had any issues in using the pads ( either brand of foams) other than some minor velcro issues with the LC's.

Other pads I have that I've yet to use are:

Meguiar's mf pads
LC Constant Pressure pads
Buff-n-Shine 6 each of every color

 

[4u2nvinmtl]

I've hammered my Tangerine pads, and haven't had any signs of collapse with m105, m205, PF2500, or SF4000.

Do you use a lot of pressure/product?

I can only assume so. I primed my pad a difference way with the M205 (used product to prime the pad and not QDS). I spread a thin layer across the pad by starting with an X pattern and using my finger to spread it, then I buffed off any excess against a clean towel at speed 6 and let it sit while I taped off the first panel. Then I added 3 smaller than a Pea sized drops and got to work. After a panel or two I noticed the pad was steaming hot (I was pushing hard-ish on speed 5, with a PC) I did the exact same thing with CarPro Reflect and got a totally different experience (I assumed because it's less viscous it didn't absorb as much into the pad when priming).

Maybe "collapse" isn't the appropriate word for what I experienced. The pad compressed more easily and liked to stay compressed, and I had to let off a lot for the pad to fluff back up. Either way I changed pads when I noticed this started happening and slowed down the speed to 4-5 and let off the pressure so the pads didn't get so hot. I think that helped prevent the pads from getting as saturated also (I think the heat helped the M205 work its way deeper into the pad causing what I'd call "pad collapse" due to heat and saturation).

I used the Cyan Hydro-Tech pads with M101 @ speed 5-6 again last night to spot correct some scratches and it worked flawlessly (pushed hard). I also applied the LSP (Collinite 845) for the first time by PC using the Crimson Hydro-Tech pads (at speed 2-3 with little to no pressure). I encountered 0 issues with collapse despite putting way to much Collinite on the pad. That leads me to conclude heat + saturation caused my issue with the tangerine Hydro-Tech pads, or maybe the pads didn't just run as hot with Reflect because I learned from the M205 experience. Too subjective to say for sure, I'd have to do some measured objective tests.

For the most part, the Hydro-Techs have not let me down and I'd recommend them regardless!

 

[4u2nvinmtl]

I never have that issue with any of my pads because I don't ever let my pads get that hot or work them that hard.

How many pads per step (compound or polish) are you using?

I had already compounded my whole Jeep using CarPro Denim pads to remove/reduce the Orange Peel. I used 5 Tangerine Hydro-Tech pads to final polish with M205.

I agree 100%. I likely worked the pads to hard and caused the collapse by overheating them. I just found that the Reflect polish didn't run as hot as the M205 did. Likely due to it's thicker consistency. Reflect seemed to sit on the surface of the pads better. I don't think it's a pad issue but more of a user and/or product issue.

 

[evspencer44]

Thanks for providing your feedback. Very enjoyable to read.



Sounds good. IME, the Wolfgang polish lineup loves the Hydro-Tech pads. This combination works perfectly with each other. Please make sure to provide your experience with this combination as well.



:iagree: Even for the experienced detailer.

Perhaps start a new thread on on your feedback.

Thanks Mike, I have recently been printing a lot of info from your website -- helping me lots with the "do's and don'ts"!

Having joined the long line of AGO enthusiasts it is terribly frustrating not to be able to find enough time for the "hands on" c7424:experience required to complete my first detailing endeavor --- hopefully by week's end I'll be able to update on the Hydro-Techs.

Thanks to each one of those who have responded to questions here and in a few other posts I have made along the way.:applause::dblthumb2:

 

[dlc95]

I can only assume so. I primed my pad a difference way with the M205 (used product to prime the pad and not QDS). I spread a thin layer across the pad by starting with an X pattern and using my finger to spread it, then I buffed off any excess against a clean towel at speed 6 and let it sit while I taped off the first panel. Then I added 3 smaller than a Pea sized drops and got to work. After a panel or two I noticed the pad was steaming hot (I was pushing hard-ish on speed 5, with a PC) I did the exact same thing with CarPro Reflect and got a totally different experience (I assumed because it's less viscous it didn't absorb as much into the pad when priming).

Maybe "collapse" isn't the appropriate word for what I experienced. The pad compressed more easily and liked to stay compressed, and I had to let off a lot for the pad to fluff back up. Either way I changed pads when I noticed this started happening and slowed down the speed to 4-5 and let off the pressure so the pads didn't get so hot. I think that helped prevent the pads from getting as saturated also (I think the heat helped the M205 work its way deeper into the pad causing what I'd call "pad collapse" due to heat and saturation).

I used the Cyan Hydro-Tech pads with M101 @ speed 5-6 again last night to spot correct some scratches and it worked flawlessly (pushed hard). I also applied the LSP (Collinite 845) for the first time by PC using the Crimson Hydro-Tech pads (at speed 2-3 with little to no pressure). I encountered 0 issues with collapse despite putting way to much Collinite on the pad. That leads me to conclude heat + saturation caused my issue with the tangerine Hydro-Tech pads, or maybe the pads didn't just run as hot with Reflect because I learned from the M205 experience. Too subjective to say for sure, I'd have to do some measured objective tests.

For the most part, the Hydro-Techs have not let me down and I'd recommend them regardless!

Thanks for the insight!

Whatever I use on the h20 Cyan, and Tangerine pads, I usually only use three dots of product to start with, and two, sometimes one dot of product after that.

I've tried the ring of product around the edge to start, and well as the "full face prime", which I didn't like at all - with those pads.

I try to avoid the "×" as it concentrates product in the center of the pad, where the two lines intersect. I note that you wipe it off, but I didn't. What happens is that it concentrates moisture where the heat from the machine is concentrated, which is usually unhealthy for the pad.

I had one of my thicker (1 1/4 × 5.5") Cyan h20 pads steam up on me when buffing in the sun at speed 6 (fg400). These closed cell pads really hold the water in. I had let them dry for four days! A reduction back to speed 4.5 took care of that, but I swapped it out anyways. (On a side note, I left that pad at a job...)

The ability to use less product is one of my favorite features of the Hydrotech line. The over all firmness, and resultant efficiency almost make them a necessity when I'm using the PC.

 

[Hoytman]

These closed cell pads really hold the water in. I had let them dry for four days!

If you use a rotarty for nothing else, they are excellent at spinning excess moisture out of pads and a cheap Harbor Feight rotary can be had for less than $40 and often south of $30. So, too me even they are worth having around...like I said, if for nothing but spinning out pads.

The rotary turned my 4 day drying times into a few hours on a sunny day to no more than over night pad face down on a paper towel. Try it!

 

[dlc95]

If you use a rotarty for nothing else, they are excellent at spinning excess moisture out of pads and a cheap Harbor Feight rotary can be had for less than $40 and often south of $30. So, too me even they are worth having around...like I said, if for nothing but spinning out pads.

The rotary turned my 4 day drying times into a few hours on a sunny day to no more than over night pad face down on a paper towel. Try it!

I do have a pe-14 on my wish list. That is a great idea for sure. I have extra sets of H20 pads too.

 

[sproketser]

Sub d for future refs .

 

[evspencer44]

Well, finally figured out how to upload photos and how to plug them into a message (thanks again Mr. Phillips!).

This is my first ever detail as noted above, and unfortunately I did not get to try the Hydro-Tech pads --- but will in Sept/Oct. when I will prep for winter and again wax and seal (or vice versa).

As noted before I did the full detail using WG products - and was very surprised at the results -- not expert quality like many of you AG folks - but for the first-ever I am happy with the result.

I had detailed by section over a period of 2-3 weeks, and after washing, claying, swirl removal, and WG glaze, I then applied a coat of FUZION wax. Didn't think I could apply WGDPGS on top of Fuzion but a few said they had done so. So - I tried knowing that in a few months I would go through the process again and modify as necessary.

The first picture isn't as focused at it should be - but this is the roof of our 2012 Camry LE Hybrid - Barcelona Red - Daily Driver at 62,000 miles showing sky and trees across the road about 80-100 ft. away.

This is a view from left side driver door over the hood showing a reflection of our home - about 60 feet away.

And this is a passenger side shot showing a reflection of the house which is about 60 feet away.

Thanks to all of you who shared your thoughts as I attempted something I never dreamed I would dare to do. And for the encouragement to keep going.

I was very worried about sealing on top of the Fuzion but the combination has beaded exceptionally well through almost two months of run, dust, and our DOT's efforts to "grub" along the sides of our roads leaving lots of dust, sand and gravel on the roadway.

As I sit in my office overlooking Penobscot Bay - I can only marvel at the protection the WG products have provided.

I can only hope the next detail process will be even better.

Thanks to Mike Phillips and his unbelievable volume of information here --- and to each one of you who have posted tips, tricks, advice. etc.

Spence

 

[dlc95]

Nice results!

 

[shagnat]

Great first effort. I've yet to venture into my first real "detailing" job. I'm going to have to do sections like you as I have sun most of the day and my garage is full of "stuff" so I'm unable to work in there and my HOA won't let me leave up a canopy over night.. *sigh*