Etched Water Spots on Paint

Lustrous Detail

Lustrous Detail

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Aloha!

I have etched in water spots on my rear quarter panel and rear passenger door, passenger side. I tried compounding first but that didn't remove it so I want to try wet sanding it out. I got Meguiars 1000 and 3000 grit 3in sanding disc. I also got the 3in foam interface to go on my 2-7/8 backing plate for my porter cable. My truck has factory paint on it. My questions are:

1. Do I approach with the least aggressive method first? 3000 grit? Or should I start with the 1000grit?

2. Is machine sanding considered more aggressive than hand sanding?

Thank you in advance.
 
Please post pics, I have never came across water etching most polishes couldn't tackle, let alone a compound. Sanding just seems excessive for water etching.
 
Billy Baldone said:
Please post pics, I have never came across water etching most polishes couldn't tackle, let alone a compound. Sanding just seems excessive for water etching.
Click to expand...

Totally agree. A good paint cleansing lotion like Pinnacle using a DA should remove those water spots with ease.

As for sanding 1000 is very aggressive. But 1500 would be a good place to start. Meguires does not make 1500 grit in 3" for whatever reason.

As for machine wet sanding, although it doesn't seem to make sense is safer IMO than hand because of the uniformity of the machine doing the work versus your hand. To use 1500 grit you would have to get a foam brick and wrap your paper around that, then use the 3000 via 3" disc.

But as Billy mentioned it seems way too excessive for true water spots.
 
Rule of thumb is you always start least aggressive no matter what method. That said I too agree with Billy about try in wet sand or dry sand just yet.

Try a different pad with a more aggressive cut and or a different compound. What compound and pad did you use to first try removal?

As far as sanding with hand or machine it's all about that technique and how hard or soft you push, how long you sand the spot. Check out this post if you go the sanding route.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ghly-specialized-technique-mike-phillips.html
 
High Caliber said:
Rule of thumb is you always start least aggressive no matter what method. That said I too agree with Billy about try in wet sand or dry sand just yet.

Try a different pad with a more aggressive cut and or a different compound. What compound and pad did you use to first try removal?

As far as sanding with hand or machine it's all about that technique and how hard or soft you push, how long you sand the spot. Check out this post if you go the sanding route.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ghly-specialized-technique-mike-phillips.html
Click to expand...

Last November when I purchased the truck, I had an owner of a detail shop take a look at it. He used a porter cable DA, green rupes pad and meguiars ultimate compound. I believe he used speed setting 5-6.
 
I used to do some light wetsanding, but over time decided it's just not worth it for myself and my customers.. especially here in HI because the UV index is so high you need as much clear coating as you can get otherwise that clear is going to FAIL one day sooner than normal. Unless of course you're going to apply multi layers of a coating that replace that lost clear coating.

When I did wetsanding, i never went thru a customers clear, but i've gon through my own cars clear VERY QUICKLY. There's really not a lot of clear there. And I only used #2000 grit, never anything less.
 
doesn't sound like water marks.
Like the above said i never seen water marks that couldnt be taken out with compound. Ill bet there bird poop etching
 
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