Headlight restoration. What would you do?

Lustrous Detail

Lustrous Detail

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I have a potential client for a detail plus a headlight restoration. He sent me these pics and it shows that the edges are showing UV damage. Would you restore just the edges or do the whole headlight.

My plan was to wet sand starting with 1000g then follow with 3000g Compoung with V34 and final polish with V36. Is that too aggressive?
 
The edges are the most difficult part

I would suggest starting with 800 dry

I don't usually do a polishing step after compounding with LC Purple Foamed Wool and M100
 
I would avoid wet sanding more than you have to. No need to remove all of the lights OEM uv protectant.
 
I would try a small wool pad with something aggressive like the 3000 before sanding to see if it helps. Once you start sanding the whole process needs to be redone a few months later...no matter what UV protection you put afterwards...I would concentrate more on the edges but I would definitely make some quick passes on the whole headlight to take out the oxidation a bit, but hey thats just me.
 
TBH, I rarely wetsand anymore.. Only the most beat up headlights get wetsanded. Those dont look that bad IMO. I've been having awesome results using a foam wool pad on my GG6 with 3" backing plate and Megs M100 or 101 and topped with a coating
 
If you end up wet sanding make sure you install an Xpel headlight protector. You'll completely remove the factory UV film with the wet sanding which is what is already happening on the edges.
 
Corvette lights are a nightmare. Please update us on your results and let us know about your experience.
 
The factory UV coating I removed was just slightly softer than tool steel. I went through about a dozen sanding discs. It would be faster to start with the most aggressive method first instead of at the other end of the spectrum. If it's your 1st set (which I'm safely assuming), plan on dedicating a few hours for the pair.
 
g35_coupe said:
The factory UV coating I removed was just slightly softer than tool steel. I went through about a dozen sanding discs. It would be faster to start with the most aggressive method first instead of at the other end of the spectrum. If it's your 1st set (which I'm safely assuming), plan on dedicating a few hours for the pair.
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Yes its my first set. I was planning on hand polishing/compounding the affected areas first and see if that works.
 
At $1600 a pop to replace you have some nerves. Lense had lite blue tint. I used 3"Griot DA 220 dry then Abralon500-1000-2000-3000-4000 not dripping wet but moist . Then polished and sealed . He was like a kid on XMAS. and I could breath again . The edge is the hard part but if you cover and then tape the outside edge you don't cut the paint.
 
chuckk said:
I would try a small wool pad with something aggressive like the 3000 before sanding to see if it helps. Once you start sanding the whole process needs to be redone a few months later...no matter what UV protection you put afterwards...I would concentrate more on the edges but I would definitely make some quick passes on the whole headlight to take out the oxidation a bit, but hey thats just me.
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Wait, what? Wet sand, compound, polish, IPA, Optimum Opti-lens, done. A couple years solid protection. Wax and sealants don't last, use a dedicated high UV inhibitor plastic coating and it does not have to be redone every 3 months...
 
VP Mark said:
Wait, what? Wet sand, compound, polish, IPA, Optimum Opti-lens, done. A couple years solid protection. Wax and sealants don't last, use a dedicated high UV inhibitor plastic coating and it does not have to be redone every 3 months...
Click to expand...

That's my usual process in lenses that lightly oxidized. Haven't had any problems
 
I agree. For lghtly oxidized headlamps we wont sand them unless they have deeper defects. Just doesnt make sense to remove the old coating that may still be good. My common sense says its better to lay olens or similar coatings on top instead of relying on them only.

And i can only get a few solid months from olens here in HI. The sun is just too strong
 
jrs1418 said:
I agree. For lghtly oxidized headlamps we wont sand them unless they have deeper defects. Just doesnt make sense to remove the old coating that may still be good. My common sense says its better to lay olens or similar coatings on top instead of relying on them only.

And i can only get a few solid months from olens here in HI. The sun is just too strong
Click to expand...

So you're saying for the headlights I posted. Just do a light polish, IPA wipe then Opti Lens?
 
Its hard to tell from the pic. It looks like there's some oxidation on the topmost parts. I'd just try the least aggressive (easiest) method first at least. I've done a few corvette headlights, i dont remember them being noticeably difficult. But they all had some "crazing", that probably couldnt even be fixed with wetsanding, so I decided to just clear them up and apply a coating.

I honestly feel that on most headlights i can get out all oxidation, and even #1500+ grit sanding marks with my 3" foam wool pad and M100 or 101, in a 1-2 step headlight buff. I knock out a set of headlights in like 15-20 minutes with this method. and gets headlights 80+% like new, depending on their initial condition.


Only the most severe headlights get wetsanded, and I charge extra. But I prefer to leave as much factory coating on as possible and will only go for a full clear removal if it was rattle can sprayed on and starting to de-laminate, or if the headlight is severely deteriorated. Then i bust out the 3" #500 disks on my DA and go to town, then hand polish my way up.
 
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