Meguire's #7; extra coats

1996Z15

1996Z15

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I have a black 1969 Corvette and, while the paint is very shiny, it is just lacking some pop. Someone on another forum I frequent was using #7 on his original paint 1968 Camaro and he suggested I give it a try. He forwarded a link to a Auto Geek tip sheet showing Mike rejuvenating the paint on an old Lincoln Mark.

Yesterday I applied the #7 to my car; earlier today I removed the polish and I think it looks a little better. In the tip page I was sent it states to reapply the #7 3 more times followed by a quality paste wax.

If my paint is already shiny would additional applications of the #7 serve any purpose other than wear my arms and shoulders out?

Thanks
 
1996Z15 said:
I have a black 1969 Corvette and, while the paint is very shiny, it is just lacking some pop. Someone on another forum I frequent was using #7 on his original paint 1968 Camaro and he suggested I give it a try. He forwarded a link to a Auto Geek tip sheet showing Mike rejuvenating the paint on an old Lincoln Mark.

Yesterday I applied the #7 to my car; earlier today I removed the polish and I think it looks a little better. In the tip page I was sent it states to reapply the #7 3 more times followed by a quality paste wax.

If my paint is already shiny would additional applications of the #7 serve any purpose other than wear my arms and shoulders out?

Thanks
Click to expand...

It can't hurt. Adds oils to the paint. A DA would make it much easier.
 
Golly Gee...You only followed Mike's directions,
from the tip sheet, by ~25-33%. Imagine the results
if they were to be followed in their entirety! :coolgleam:


Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
Golly Gee...You only followed Mike's directions,
from the tip sheet, by ~25-33%. Imagine the results
if they were to be followed in their entirety! :coolgleam:


Bob
Click to expand...

Like I said; the paint is already shiny so I didn't see the need to follow all of the pre-#7 steps.
I had already used detail spray to clean the car and the car had recently been clay barred if those are the steps that you're referring to.

The remaining steps that I "missed" follow the application of #7 if I'm not mistaken. BTW; the sarcastic "Golly Gee" I could do without.
 
It's your business if you don't want to follow
Mike's "M07 Tip Sheet" in its entirety.

It's my business how I disparage
your haughtiness for not doing so.


Bob
 
Follow the entire directions...and enjoy even more POP. Don't do it...enjoy what you have. Mike already gave you as detailed an answer as you could ever receive on how to preserve your paint and take it to its maximum potential.

You said your buddies paint was original. Is the paint on your car original as well? If so, re-read Mike's article. The more you infuse the paint with oils the more it will POP. You can even polish it afterwards for yet even more POP, then add a good wax/sealant of choice for even more POP.

I suspect that if it's shiny, but doesn't POP that it may have other swirls and RIDS keeping you from getting that mile deep reflection, but it starts with M7 oils and lots of them.

For polishing using something like M205 or even a good cleaner wax a machine would work best, but I'd do M7 by hand.

Why don't you show us some pictures before proceeding?
 
Hoytman said:
Follow the entire directions...and enjoy even more POP. Don't do it...enjoy what you have. Mike already gave you as detailed an answer as you could ever receive on how to preserve your paint and take it to its maximum potential.

You said your buddies paint was original. Is the paint on your car original as well? If so, re-read Mike's article. The more you infuse the paint with oils the more it will POP. You can even polish it afterwards for yet even more POP, then add a good wax/sealant of choice for even more POP.

I suspect that if it's shiny, but doesn't POP that it may have other swirls and RIDS keeping you from getting that mile deep reflection, but it starts with M7 oils and lots of them.

For polishing using something like M205 or even a good cleaner wax a machine would work best, but I'd do M7 by hand.

Why don't you show us some pictures before proceeding?
Click to expand...

The cars paint is not original as far as I can tell. For the record, I am not disputing Mike's tip sheet; it seems like the concensus here is that I think I know better, far from it. I simply asked, or I thought it was pretty simple, do the extra coats as outlined in his tips page, pertain to ANY car or just cars with badly oxidized paint.
Based upon the helpful feedback I have received, I now know that the extra coats cannot hurt and will add essential oils back into any paint job.

I do have a Flex polisher that I bought with hopes of learning how to use it properly but, I still haven't gotten comfortable using it so I have been doing any waxing / polishing by hand. I know, I know the only way to get comfortable with it is to use it. I want to get some of Mike's instructional books / videos and study them before I take that polisher to my black paint.

I am out of town for work at the moment but, will try to upload some pictures when I return.
 
Did your applicator turn the color of the car (black)? If so, it's single stage paint.
 
Just a note on #7 and paint transferring to the applicator. When I use #7 by itself I do not get any paint transfer/pad coloring. Sometimes I mix a little polish in with the #7 after I have done a few applications of it and then finish up with the #7/polish mix. That's when I get coloring. #7 is truly non abrasive
 
Strange, I've had color transfer before.

That was on pretty neglected paint using a terry cloth applicator though.
 
1996Z15 said:
I have a black 1969 Corvette and, while the paint is very shiny, it is just lacking some pop. Someone on another forum I frequent was using #7 on his original paint 1968 Camaro and he suggested I give it a try.

He forwarded a link to a Auto Geek tip sheet showing Mike rejuvenating the paint on an old Lincoln Mark.
Click to expand...

This one...

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints



1996Z15 said:
Yesterday I applied the #7 to my car; earlier today I removed the polish and I think it looks a little better. In the tip page I was sent it states to reapply the #7 3 more times followed by a quality paste wax.

If my paint is already shiny would additional applications of the #7 serve any purpose other than wear my arms and shoulders out?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Good question.

There are two characteristics to talk about,

Surface shiny
Depth and reflectivity

It's possible to have a shiny surface without depth and when it comes to black paint your want both. If you have good depth or DOI that is Distinction of Image then after one application of the #7 you're probably good to go to wax.

If the paint is lacking in color and depth then it could be that a second or third application of the #7 will increase and restore more depth and color. Hard to know without going through the motions.

You certainly can't hurt anything except your arm.

If you're not trying to carefully remove oxidation then you can machine apply the #7 using a simple DA like a Porter Cable with a soft, clean polishing pad on speed setting 5.



1996Z15 said:
The cars paint is not original as far as I can tell. For the record, I am not disputing Mike's tip sheet; it seems like the consensus here is that I think I know better, far from it. I simply asked, or I thought it was pretty simple, do the extra coats as outlined in his tips page, pertain to ANY car or just cars with badly oxidized paint.


Based upon the helpful feedback I have received, I now know that the extra coats cannot hurt and will add essential oils back into any paint job.
Click to expand...

Like I posted above,

Hard to know without going through the motions.

You certainly can't hurt anything except your arm.



1996Z15 said:
I do have a Flex polisher that I bought with hopes of learning how to use it properly but, I still haven't gotten comfortable using it so I have been doing any waxing / polishing by hand.

I know, I know the only way to get comfortable with it is to use it. I want to get some of Mike's instructional books / videos and study them before I take that polisher to my black paint.
Click to expand...

To use the Flex 3401 for this type of paint and this type of car be very careful around any raised body lines as the paint will tend to be thinnest in these areas.

The #7 is NON-abrasive and you should use a soft foam finishing pad if using the Flex 3401. The Flex 3401 being a gear-driven tool provides more "cleaning power" for a simple process like this as compared to a simple DA like the PC or you working by hand.

For this reason do be careful around raised body lines, edges and corners.


1996Z15 said:
I am out of town for work at the moment but, will try to upload some pictures when I return.
Click to expand...

Thank you for joining our forum and asking for help. I love the classic Corvettes. Here's one I recently worked on. It has a basecoat/clearcoat finish thus I didn't use any #7 for any of the steps, just Blackfire compound, polish and wax.


1969 Corvette Stingray - Cobra Clay Mitt Review

Here's before...

watermark.php



Here's after...

watermark.php




Here's what the owner said...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Mike,

Thanks so much for this work.

It has truly changed the character of the car for me. It has always been "Just an old car" but is now is a real show car.

Rich Gilbert

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

:dblthumb2:
 
If it's hard as hell to come off ,more than likely needs some polishing.Ive used this method many times on rv cars boats.I find the paint is thirsty for that product needs polishing,pics would help.
 
Great info as always Mike!

Idk about the transfer thing. I do use it pretty heavy though. Maybe that provides to much lubrication, then removing it's mostly a film of dried #7.
 
Mike,

Thank you so much for jumping in on this; I appreciate you taking the time to help out a newbie who is "detailing challenged".
Considering the type of car I would be detailing (1969 Corvette coupe) would you suggest that I try to sell the Flex and purchase a different type of polisher or simply still to applying everything by hand?

BTW, the car you show in the post looks amazing; I wish someone could get my car to look that good. Mine looks to be in better shape than what you started out with.
 
Never...ever get rid of your flex...period! Do it by hand if you have to.
 
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