Chip Repair - Repair?

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PGBCruiser

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Here's the story, of a man named Newbie...
Greetings, Long story hopefully short: 13 year old car with rock chips. I had two brands of touch up, best match being Mopar PB7 Patriot Blue pearl coat. Unfortunately I didn't know about using a small artist's brush versus the house painting brush on the cap.
Not only does the paint not match (didn't expect miracles); but the multiple touch ups are larger than the original chips.
I found a great "How To" on the Meguiar's Forum where I learned (too late) about the fine artist brush, as well as how to wet sand, compound and polish to finish the project.
I was super careful with 2500 grit; and Meg's 105 and 205 with MT300 worked great; but the touch ups are still very noticeable from 10 feet or closer.
If I can upload the pics my questions will be:
1. Do I try again with 2500 and wetsand a bit less timidly (won't use the word aggressive)?
2. Do I wetsand the area with a more aggressive grit and try to get rid of all touch up, trying again with an artist brush or Dr. Colorchip?
3. Do I live with it and walk away before doing more damage (not my top choice)? Only one photo would post despite trying to resize. "Finished" area looks much the same, other areas (rest of the panel, hood) are looking better than they have in years) Thanks!
 
If the area you are touching up is factory clear, you can knock down those blobs or completely remove your repairs with some lacquer thinner or a Lankga kit.
 
Yes, Setec Astronomy, it's factor clear. I would love to get a "do-over" on this by removing my first attempt and being more precise on the next pass. Thank you!
 
PGBCruiser said:
Yes, Setec Astronomy, it's factor clear. I would love to get a "do-over" on this by removing my first attempt and being more precise on the next pass. Thank you!
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Just be careful when removing the old touchup paint, as the lacquer thinner will remove basecoat and will eventually remove primer, although the e-coat probably not so much, I don't know how deep the chips were. But basically fresh touchup paint can be wiped right out with lacquer thinner on a paper towel.
 
Paul G, that does sound like a good approach. I like the fact that Dr. Colorchip seems to tackle the "blob factor" within the process. While Dr. C is a bit more expensive than touch up paint and a brush; better to get a good result than do it 2 or 3 times and still feel disappointed. Thanks!
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Just be careful when removing the old touchup paint, as the lacquer thinner will remove basecoat and will eventually remove primer, although the e-coat probably not so much, I don't know how deep the chips were. But basically fresh touchup paint can be wiped right out with lacquer thinner on a paper towel.
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Only one or two deep chips, the rest were "white spots" as opposed to deep, to the metal chips. If using lacquer thinner, how do I make sure I don't leave any thinner residue
on the paint... paint prep spray?
 
The lacquer thinner should dry clean, just use common sense, not too much and don't let it dwell. It's an original "paint prep".
 
Thanks Setec, I'm the king of caution...
P.S. spent most of my life in Bergen Cty, NJ.
 
Florida... would love to head back north, the heat is too much for me!
 
For those familiar with the Dr. Colorchip product, based on the photo can you recommend which of the two products would be better: Road Rash versus Squirt and Squeegee? Or, Touch up bottle with #1 artist brush?
 
Because I offer Dr. C as a service, I have everything in quantity.
I find that if one technique doesn't work, I can safely remove what I applied and try a different technique. I order brushes by the 100's, cloths, squeegee's and the paint comes with cap that has a small whole for dripping or squirting onto the paint, or you can take the cap off and dip brush or touch up stick.

I think you should just start with the standard kit, order some extra brushes and squeegee's and see how you do....

It's going to take some practice... See how you do.
 
Thanks Paul... one more question for everyone: A big part of my "discomfort" with my touch up job is the poor color match (two sources with the same code). The touch up spots appear lighter; surprising to me as I would have thought a 13 year old car would have faded color.
So, would it make sense to check a color chart and look for a slightly darker color, or should I stick with the Chrysler code and just aim for a neat job that protects the car?
Thanks again for all of the input! Great folks here on the Forum and on the phones at AG!
 
If it's metallic it will always stand out big time .Have you ever touched up silver and the touch up is worse ,it's be caused by too much metallic bunched up in that little chip.If you're gonna keep car just repaint it and be done with it.
 
The Dr. Colorchip colors are usually pretty close. I just did my Red Jewel Tint Coat and it turned out nice. If you get a foot away you'll see it, but at 3 feet you don't. I have done some hard to match colors, 72 VW light Blue and Pearl white, they actually sent me bottles of colors I asked for to mix it myself and get it closer. No charge for the additional mixing colors. I use the Griot's paint touch up kit. Lots of very small brushes. It also co Es with a couple syringes with tiny brushes on the end. Real handy if you have a lot of chips to deal with.
 
GSKR said:
If it's metallic it will always stand out big time .Have you ever touched up silver and the touch up is worse ,it's be caused by too much metallic bunched up in that little chip.If you're gonna keep car just repaint it and be done with it.
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I recently read an article that said metallic/pearls are real tough to match... Murphy's Law. While I hope to be driving this forever - a complete repaint of the area is out of my budget (2 young kids). I just want to do the best I can at doing a clean job and protecting the metal underneath. I'm hyper-critical about DIY work, my wife has another word for it! : )
 
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