A search challenge for AG members.

Busy mind

New member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
244
Reaction score
0
Hello all,

I am trying to find out if the color Channel green or Monterey green for a 1950 Plymouth Suburban is actually single stage white that's tinted one of these two shades of green. It appears the car has been repainted, but it's been painted to match the original single stage color.

Channel Green was available in 1950 but the Monterey Green looks a little closer to the color although that shade was introduced in 1953.
This paint is extremely hard so I'm thinking it's SS white with tint, but I'd like to make sure.

First one to provide a solid answer gets my eternal admiration.
 
I'd contact a local auto paint 'store' and ask them. They would/should have the 'recipe', or at least know where to get it from.

Good luck...

Bill
 
Many "paint colors" come from the mixing
of the colors found on RYB Color Wheel(s).
Note:
Because there can be so many color
combinations derived from these wheels...
They are also given, among other denotations,
"Hex Color Codes".

Examples:



_____________________________________________

Chrysler Channel Green is listed as:
#748871 (Hex Color Code)



Here's the "flow-chart information" for: #748871

RGB.....rgb(116, 136, 113)
RGBA....rgba(116, 136, 113, 1.0)
RYB.......red: 44.3137%, yellow: 53.3333%, blue: 52.1569%
Hex.....#748871
Decimal......7637105
Android.....Color-9140111 / 0xff748871
HSL.......hsl(112, 9%, 49%)
HSLA.....hsla(112, 9%, 49%, 1.0)
HSV / HSB hue: 112 (112.1739), saturation: 17 (16.9118), value: 53 (53.3333)
XYZ.......X: 18.9873, Y: 22.5136, Z: 18.9676
xyY x: 0.314, y: 0.3723, Y: 22.5136
CIELab L: 54.5677, a: -11.8831, b: 9.97
CIELuv L: 54.5677, u: -10.0788, v: 15.3014
CIELCH.....,L: 54.5677, C: 15.5115, H: 140.0031
Hunter-Lab......,L: 47.4485, a: -11.6052, b: 9.5127
CMYK cyan: 15 (0.1471), magenta: 0 (0), yellow: 17 (0.1691), key: 47 (0.4667)
CMY......cyan: 55 (0.5451), magenta: 47 (0.4667), yellow: 56 (0.5569)
YIQ Y: 127.398, I: -4.5253, Q: -11.3852
YUV.......Y: 127.398, U: -7.084, V: -9.9998
YDbDr......Y: 127.398, Db: -21.659, Dr: 21.669
YCbCr......Y: 125.43, Cb: 120.863, Cr: 120.853
YPbPr......Y: 130.084, Pb: -9.2, Pr: -8.942
Munsell Color System 10GY 5/4 approximate; exact match: Munsell 10GY 5/4 / #668265
___________________________________________________

IMO...and as was suggested above:
An auto-paint store should be able to mix
up a color-matching paint.

If all else fails:
Take them a representative paint chip
so they can use their "scanner".




Bob
 
My reason for wanting to know more about the paint is because it's unusually hard on this car. In one of Mike P. articles, it discussed how soft single stage paint is, however the white paint can be very hard due to the mix of titanium dioxide. I'm wondering if that's why these swirls won't budge when I used least aggressive and then worked down to an orange hybrid on my Flex with M101. Completely puzzled.

But since others have said it doesn't look original then maybe none of that info helps. Whoever sprayed it again could have chosen whatever single stage paint at the time best represented the original color.
I'm getting tired of mystery paint.
 
My reason for wanting to know more about the paint is because it's unusually hard on this car. In one of Mike P. articles, it discussed how soft single stage paint is, however the white paint can be very hard due to the mix of titanium dioxide. I'm wondering if that's why these swirls won't budge when I used least aggressive and then worked down to an orange hybrid on my Flex with M101. Completely puzzled.

But since others have said it doesn't look original then maybe none of that info helps. Whoever sprayed it again could have chosen whatever single stage paint at the time best represented the original color.
I'm getting tired of mystery paint.
Where do you keep coming up with the notion
that Chrysler's Channel Green contained any
white/titanium "color-ations" in its recipe?

I sure didn't see any "white" colors listed in
any of the Channel Green recipes that I posted.


Bob
 
Holy Moly Batman!! Bob how in the heck did you find the color chart in the 1st place?

Spock!! Are you out of your Vulcan Mind?....LOL As always thanks for your valuable knowledge.

Captain Kirk of the Starship Enterprise!!
 
Where do you keep coming up with the notion
that Chrysler's Channel Green contained any
white/titanium "color-ations" in its recipe?

I sure didn't see any "white" colors listed in
any of the Channel Green recipes that I posted.


Bob

This is the whole essence of my question. The paint shouldn't be as hard as it is. I'm trying to find out why it reacts like it does. It's going against everything that I've read about single stage paint.
 
This is the whole essence of my question. The paint shouldn't be as hard as it is. I'm trying to find out why it reacts like it does.

It's going against everything
that I've read about single stage paint
.
•Reading (lab work) will provide, in general,
vehicles' paint-systems' correction information;

•Hands-on (real-world) will provide
paint-specific information for an
individual vehicle's paint-correction.

IMO...
•Since every vehicle's paint system
is unique to that particular vehicle:
-You probably need to change-up your
current processes, products, tools, etc...
in order to deal with what you're describing
as an extraordinary SS paint-system anomoly.



Bob
 
I have never had to use anything close to that aggressive(M101 and orange hybrid) for single stage paint. But then again I have only worked on about a dozen or so cars with single stage paint, so maybe there is harder single stage paint that I just haven't seen.

When you polished the car did your pad turn green ?
 
I have never had to use anything close to that aggressive(M101 and orange hybrid) for single stage paint. But then again I have only worked on about a dozen or so cars with single stage paint, so maybe there is harder single stage paint that I just haven't seen.

When you polished the car did your pad turn green ?

Yes the pads turned green. There was a decent amount of paint removed with the M#7 soak, so I didn't want to go as aggressive as I did. I tried every combination from least aggressive to most on different spots. Only thing I didn't try was a rotary and wool pad (which I never would on this paint).

I spoke to the customer and they are very understanding. I mostly took the job on to get experience and see what I could do with it. No expectations were set or given. They are extremely happy with the progress so far. However I am super curious why it's behaving like this and if there is a detailing remedy, or if it just needs to be repainted. Theres a decent amount of rust and a couple spots where it's been touched up with a modern base coat clear coat, so it's not a show car by any means.

I think I will just finish up with a cleaner wax and call it good.
 
Back
Top