Moving on up

[conman1395]

Some type of rotary.

For me, the increase in performance is negligable. The 3401 really shines on heavy oxidation, but for your everyday swirls I feel like I can get comparable results from my Porter Cable. Same with the Duetto.

They do offer a smoother running experience, but I can't tell you how many times I just end up putting the PC back into play.

The only time I lose cut on the PC is when the pad loads up. Even using something like Ultimate Compound, it cuts hard enough that after a couple of passes, I turn over the machine, and see that residue build up that's clogged up my pads. This even after cleaning them after every section cycle.

The 3401 and the Rupes are both nice though. I'm considering the next Flex XCE for either the shop, or the mobile rig.

I've been doing this long enough that I find myself wanting to learn things I don't know how to do than using things I haven't before. Rotary is next on my list.
I agree with you 10,000%

To answer the OP since he started this thread looking for an answer to his question though: moving up from a GG6, I would say either forced rotation or large throw will definitely lead to an increase in production (also read as decrease in time for current production) if you do it right.

What does do it right mean? Go into the system in a non-half-ass way. If you go long throw, at least invest in the correct pads even if they're more expensive. Pads last a LONG time if you buy enough to keep them cool and keep them clean. If you go with the forced rotation though, you don't have as much of a "system" to go into though and with the popularity of using things like the TB Black Wool pads you can cut really well.

 

[custmsprty]

Some type of rotary.

For me, the increase in performance is negligable. The 3401 really shines on heavy oxidation, but for your everyday swirls I feel like I can get comparable results from my Porter Cable. Same with the Duetto.

They do offer a smoother running experience, but I can't tell you how many times I just end up putting the PC back into play.

The only time I lose cut on the PC is when the pad loads up. Even using something like Ultimate Compound, it cuts hard enough that after a couple of passes, I turn over the machine, and see that residue build up that's clogged up my pads. This even after cleaning them after every section cycle.

The 3401 and the Rupes are both nice though. I'm considering the next Flex XCE for either the shop, or the mobile rig.

The PC is a capable machine to be sure, but it takes a lot longer to get the results. I did a truck with my PC and did a similar truck with my Rupes LHR15 a year or so ago and did it in about 40% less time than with my PC. Time is money. I sold my PC to a friend who is a hobbyist.

I would give the new Rupes MKII Series or G15/21 a serious look. I have the LHR15 and the G21.

 

[custmsprty]

@dlc95 (Rick Rude) dude, you're a drummer..you have forearms of steel. I'm old and beat up. LOL

Exactly, the PC is a rattle trap LOL :buffing:

It's a great entry level machine for the price as is a GG6 but neither of them can be used in the same sentence with the word smooth heheheheh.

I put a 3" LC BP on a GG6 and that thing was a jack hammer, and I was using my Rupes Mini right before. Needless to say I tossed that GG6 to the side and continued on with my super smooth Rupes Mini.

 

[dlc95]

@dlc95 (Rick Rude) dude, you're a drummer..you have forearms of steel. I'm old and beat up. LOL

Haha! I can be heavy-handed at times, but I've never blown out a pad.

 

[dlc95]

I can't really relate to most of you, however, I started with rotary a very long time ago. However I do have my fair share of DAs (PC, PC-xp, mt300, G15) and one long thrown DA. For me, I'll sometimes start with DA but I'll quickly grab the rotary. It has faster correction power and not to mention it will in most case, remove to least amount of clear coat.

Same here. I started with a rotary in the 90's. Thats probably why d/a machines just don't feel as efficient to me.

 

[conman1395]

Exactly, the PC is a rattle trap LOL :buffing:

It's a great entry level machine for the price as is a GG6 but neither of them can be used in the same sentence with the word smooth heheheheh.

I put a 3" LC BP on a GG6 and that thing was a jack hammer, and I was using my Rupes Mini right before. Needless to say I tossed that GG6 to the side and continued on with my super smooth Rupes Mini.

If only the MT300 didn't have these cord issues, I'd love to get that and keep it as my "at home tool".

 

[dlc95]

The PC is a capable machine to be sure, but it takes a lot longer to get the results. I did a truck with my PC and did a similar truck with my Rupes LHR15 a year or so ago and did it in about 40% less time than with my PC. Time is money. I sold my PC to a friend who is a hobbyist.

I would give the new Rupes MKII Series or G15/21 a serious look. I have the LHR15 and the G21.

I hear ya, and understand. But similar is not exact. Jason Rose stresses that paint is a variable and can vary model to model, even in the same production year.

To illustrate my point, on yesterday's car I did half with a PC, and half with the 3401. To my point, the difference was negligable. I never said there wasn't a difference, but to me the greater difference would be a rotary.

For what it's worth, I might need to try a 21, or a 15. It's been said that the 21 and the 3401 are very close in defect removal. If that's true, I imagine the results will be similar.

The one thing I wish I could get out of the pc is a faster spin on the pad. That says to me that I need the PE 14- 2. Like I mentioned elsewhere, it's what I started on.

A couple weeks ago I did a couple bucket trucks for my friends tree service. One of them I did with the rotary in minutes what a d/a would have taken an hour to do. It was oxidized single stage... The other I did with the PC! It wasn't as bad, but it did take longer. M105 was my friend that day.

 

[dlc95]

Exactly, the PC is a rattle trap LOL :buffing:

It's a great entry level machine for the price as is a GG6 but neither of them can be used in the same sentence with the word smooth heheheheh.

I put a 3" LC BP on a GG6 and that thing was a jack hammer, and I was using my Rupes Mini right before. Needless to say I tossed that GG6 to the side and continued on with my super smooth Rupes Mini.

I've never experienced that. I have a Craftsman 5" variable speed sander that will rattle fillings loose!

 

[dlc95]

If only the MT300 didn't have these cord issues, I'd love to get that and keep it as my "at home tool".

I thought that about the g110v2. Don't want to deal with cord issues. I always keep two machines with me (usually the PC and the 3401), just in case there's a problem when on the road. Nothing would be worse than being on location and to have an equipment issue.