Scratch removal

A

AZpolisher15

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Hey, crew. Fairly new to detailing and I am working by hand. I've spent countless hours almost every night for the last several months researching and reading posts on this site. What a valuable resource. I've been using ULW for several months. Love it.

Ok, my question... I have a 2014 Tacoma pickup that has a near perfect paint job. Unless I inspect it from just a few inches away under VERY good light, I don't see any swirls/spiderwebs at all. I've been very careful with my washing and drying technique. But I've somehow managed to get one long scratch down the center of the hood, likely from a piece of grit in my drying towel. It's a long arc-ing scratch, barely felt with a fingernail, about 2 feet long. Not all that visible, but it's driving me nuts. Aside from that, the finish is perfect (or perfect enough for me).

Because 99% of the hood is so nice, I really don't want to mess with it. But I would like to address the scratch. Based on my research, I've come to this conclusion, in order of least to most aggressive:

0. Ultimate Liquid Wax
1. UP
2. SwirlX (?)
3. ScratchX 2.0 (?)
4. UC

I've already tried UP on the scratch. Spent quite a bit of time on it and didn't see any improvement to the scratch. On the positive side, no hazing- can't even tell I attempted a "spot repair". Ha success so far.

Im confused on which product to try next- SwirlX or ScratchX ??? Do I try one, then the other, before moving to Ultimate Compound? Or just one of them before trying the UC ?

Do I have the order correct? And which product should I try next?

thank you.
 
From my experience with the products you listed there is quite a bit of similarity. For hand applications, the ScratchX and the UC, while there may be slight differences, can be used pretty much interchangeably. Same for the SwirlX and the UP.

If you're not satisfied with the results the UP are providing, then I'd step up to the UC (or ScratchX as noted above), but there's really no point in using both.
 
2black1s said:
From my experience with the products you listed there is quite a bit of similarity. For hand applications, the ScratchX and the UC, while there may be slight differences, can be used pretty much interchangeably. Same for the SwirlX and the UP.

If you're not satisfied with the results the UP are providing, then I'd step up to the UC (or ScratchX as noted above), but there's really no point in using both.
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Thanks. Actually, I already went out this morning and got scratchX. I worked and worked and I can tell that it took the upper edges off each side of the scratch but really barely made an impact as far as visibility. It's still visible, just not as "sharp" looking. I can tell that If I looked under a microscope the edges would look more like a U now rather than a V in cross section. I've watched a bunch of the Stoops/Phillips videos and read the how-to's. So, pretty sure I'm on track with technique. It just needs a little more aggressive product. I don't doubt I'd have it gone in a few passes with a DA. Now that I know how much work it is by hand, I think I'm just going to wait until I get a DA. And then compound the scratch and polish the entire hood with UC/UP. In all a good learning experience. Thanks for your input.
 
Take this as you may, but there are times when removing a single defect, like the one you describe, is better accomplished by hand than by machine. By hand you can concentrate and isolate your effort to the specific defect more precisely.

I wouldn't necessarily wait until you get a DA polisher. Hand methods are very effective for many isolated defects.

Regardless of the method used, some common sense is necessary... Is the defect 100 percent removable? Or is the risk of cut-through too great? The farther you go, the greater the risk becomes. Only you can make that decision.
 
2black1s said:
Take this as you may, but there are times when removing a single defect, like the one you describe, is better accomplished by hand than by machine. By hand you can concentrate and isolate your effort to the specific defect more precisely.

I wouldn't necessarily wait until you get a DA polisher. Hand methods are very effective for many isolated defects.

Regardless of the method used, some common sense is necessary... Is the defect 100 percent removable? Or is the risk of cut-through too great? The farther you go, the greater the risk becomes. Only you can make that decision.
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Thanks for your wisdom. Maybe I'll go at it some more then. I don't think there's any risk of cut through (if by that you mean going through clear?). I can't even feel the scratch now. Not even visible unless I'm really looking for it or the light catches it just right. But it would be nice to get it out.

For how easily this clear on my Tacoma seems to scratch, I'm surprised how hard it is when I attempt to buff a scratch out.
 
dcjredline said:
What pad are u using, I may have missed that info.
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By reading his post, he's working by hand with OTC products.

I would recommend using a microfiber applicator to get a little more "BITE" with whatever product you'll be using.
 
AnthonyGXP said:
By reading his post, he's working by hand with OTC products.

I would recommend using a microfiber applicator to get a little more "BITE" with whatever product you'll be using.
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Great, thanks. Yeah I'm working by hand and I was using a foam applicator. Will try the microfiber instead.
 
Thank you OP. Usually if I am going at a single little defect I will get a dual nap MF towel and use the smaller nap side with a small drop of product and rub with a finger in the towel. Then flip to longer nap side and wipe clean.

Anthony the reason I asked is he is still using some sort of media to apply the product and I just called it a "pad" Im sorry if that isnt the right term. I did mention I may have missed it but I did read the post and realized he was doing it manually.
 
dcjredline said:
Thank you OP. Usually if I am going at a single little defect I will get a dual nap MF towel and use the smaller nap side with a small drop of product and rub with a finger in the towel. Then flip to longer nap side and wipe clean.

Anthony the reason I asked is he is still using some sort of media to apply the product and I just called it a "pad" Im sorry if that isnt the right term. I did mention I may have missed it but I did read the post and realized he was doing it manually.
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Ok thanks. I've got a microfiber applicator pad (low quality) and some higher quality mf towels. I'll try the towel method.
 
To be honest, I could just leave it be. But I really enjoying learning about this process. I've been reading so much about detailing products, surface prep/protection and paint correction- it's kind of become a hobby. So, mostly I'm just doing it to learn. And I hope to get a PC sometime soon for wax/sealer application and occasional scratch/swirl removal. I do wish the scratch was on a rear side panel instead of the middle of the hood!

Thanks again, guys!
 
Harpolith said:
To be honest, I could just leave it be. But I really enjoying learning about this process. I've been reading so much about detailing products, surface prep/protection and paint correction- it's kind of become a hobby. So, mostly I'm just doing it to learn. And I hope to get a PC sometime soon for wax/sealer application and occasional scratch/swirl removal. I do wish the scratch was on a rear side panel instead of the middle of the hood!

Thanks again, guys!
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No problem, anytime!

As you've probably already realized, this hobby will become extremely addictive, but seem to never tire of!
 
dcjredline said:
Thank you OP. Usually if I am going at a single little defect I will get a dual nap MF towel and use the smaller nap side with a small drop of product and rub with a finger in the towel. Then flip to longer nap side and wipe clean...
Click to expand...

Another method besides your fingertip is to take and cut a 3 or 4 inch square from your towel and fold it several times. Then you'll end up 4+ plies of the towel to cushion and spread the force you'll be applying during the compounding/polishing.

Terrycloth is also a good option to microfiber for the initial cutting.

The fingertip method can be effective, and I've certainly done that before, but you don't want to be instilling a valley in the finish. A thicker, firmer applicator like you'll get if you follow the suggestion above is good insurance.

I know it would take a pretty deliberate effort to instill a valley in the finish by hand polishing, but better safe than sorry. That is just something I picked up in my many years of refinishing, especially the sanding steps involved. With sanding, you never want to use your fingertips and it's just a good practice to carry that on over to any polishing or rubbing also.
 
2black1s said:
Another method besides your fingertip is to take and cut a 3 or 4 inch square from your towel and fold it several times. Then you'll end up 4+ plies of the towel to cushion and spread the force you'll be applying during the compounding/polishing.

Terrycloth is also a good option to microfiber for the initial cutting.

The fingertip method can be effective, and I've certainly done that before, but you don't want to be instilling a valley in the finish. A thicker, firmer applicator like you'll get if you follow the suggestion above is good insurance.

I know it would take a pretty deliberate effort to instill a valley in the finish by hand polishing, but better safe than sorry. That is just something I picked up in my many years of refinishing, especially the sanding steps involved. With sanding, you never want to use your fingertips and it's just a good practice to carry that on over to any polishing or rubbing also.
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Thanks for your advice! Very much appreciated!
 
2black1s said:
Another method besides your fingertip is to take and cut a 3 or 4 inch square from your towel and fold it several times. Then you'll end up 4+ plies of the towel to cushion and spread the force you'll be applying during the compounding/polishing.

Terrycloth is also a good option to microfiber for the initial cutting.

The fingertip method can be effective, and I've certainly done that before, but you don't want to be instilling a valley in the finish. A thicker, firmer applicator like you'll get if you follow the suggestion above is good insurance.

I know it would take a pretty deliberate effort to instill a valley in the finish by hand polishing, but better safe than sorry. That is just something I picked up in my many years of refinishing, especially the sanding steps involved. With sanding, you never want to use your fingertips and it's just a good practice to carry that on over to any polishing or rubbing also.
Click to expand...

Can you show a photo of what you are describing?
 
Im suprised that know one asked if he can feel the "scratch " with his nail or not then mention the unlikely chance of the "scratch " coming out with his methods?
 
He mentioned himself in his first post that he can barely catch it with his fingernail.

Personally, on a brand new vehicle, since it's in a hard to reach spot, I could just soften the scratch appearance like you have and considering glazing it a few times and then seal/wax it.

It really sucks having to remove clear on a new vehicle.

That's one of the downsides to buffing out new cars, you are removing small amounts of clear, even more on deep scratches. If you keep this vehicle a long time and don't stay on top of maintaining that area, it's not unusual to see some clear failure down the road.

But it seems you care for your vehicle so you have less to worry about.
 
heckhole said:
He mentioned himself in his first post that he can barely catch it with his fingernail.

Personally, on a brand new vehicle, since it's in a hard to reach spot, I could just soften the scratch appearance like you have and considering glazing it a few times and then seal/wax it.

It really sucks having to remove clear on a new vehicle.

That's one of the downsides to buffing out new cars, you are removing small amounts of clear, even more on deep scratches. If you keep this vehicle a long time and don't stay on top of maintaining that area, it's not unusual to see some clear failure down the road.

But it seems you care for your vehicle so you have less to worry about.
Click to expand...
Thanks- you've brought up a valid point. Overall the paint is in really good condition. And i do plan to keep the truck for many years. I'd hate to wear a valley into the center of my hood and/or thin the clear to a greater degree.

I'm also a little worried about introducing more scratches using terry cloth and pressure. I'd post a photo but every time I try I get an "upload failed" notification. Maybe because I'm a new member?
 
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