Which buffer would you buy out of these two and why?

VincenzaV

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Hi, I want your advice on which detail DA polisher I should buy to use mostly on headlights (I started a business doing mobile headlight restoration).

I have been on this foam and it seems that best bang for the buck is the PC 7424XP is a contender at $130-ish.

The one I see as the "top of the line" detail sized DA is the Italian made Rupes Little Foot at $300.

I will be running 3" discs and pads (along with the occasional 1"/2" pads I bought here).

For the sole purpose of headlights, is the Rupes really $170 better than the PC? I hear it is relatively vibration free, but size/performance why are they very similar? The price is not the main concern for me. I really want value. If the Rupes is really that much better, I'll get it. If it is not worth the difference, I won't. The 7424XP seems pretty well represented here, can anyone speak from personal experience on the Little Foot?

Thank you.
 
You're not going to be able to run anything BUT at least 5" pads on the Rupes Duetto. It doesn't have interchangeable backing plates. Well... none do actually.

As for machines like the PC, or GG6, then yes, you can change backing plates, but even then it's a 4", 5" or 6". Don't know where you'd be able to come up with a plate to run a 1" or 2" pad with those machines. Much less how to hold the machine and make that pad work! :eek:

As far as bang for the buck... the GG6 wins, hands down. Not hard to find 30% off code for Advance Auto and get a GG6 under a hundred bucks. ;) OTOH, Nick said recently that AG would match that deal. :dunno:
 
I may have messed up the model for the Rupes. This is the one I am talking about...Rupes LHR 75E Mini Random Orbital Polisher, rupes mini polisher

That one says you can run the 3" pads. Is this backing plate removable? I have the Flex 2" and 1" backing plates (With the screw adapter thing for my drill too)

Some of the reviews for the GG seem to say it has such little power that if you look at it wrong, it stops spinning. I'm not putting it on the paint, so I do not need the safety feature of "low power". Regular power is just fine for me.

Thanks for the code. Is that for A.A. Parts, or ???
 
The baby Griots does lack power, it basically only has one speed that works for correcting if you baby it, and that's all out on speed 6.
It might work better with thin MF 3" pads, but it truly is not a "professional machine".

Meaning you start hammering this machine for professional work, you'll be going through a lot of them. I've never used the mini-rupes, but am sure it's a hands down winner.

The PC- and larger Griots GG6 can be downsized to 3" pads, with a 2-7/8" LC backing plate, and while it will work, the machine is sort of large for such an application, you have that largish shroud, and these machines probably aren't optimally balanced for using smaller backing plates and pads.

As some wise would say, when you spend a little more money for something, and you get something that's good and you're happy with, you've only wasted a little of your money.

But buy something cheaper, and it's not working, and you're not happy, then you've wasted "all your money".
 
Thank you MarkD51, that is solid advice. I am hoping someone with the mini Rupes can comment.
 
I have the Rupes Mini, it's a winner and worth the $$. BP's are not interchangeable, it is a dedicated tool.
 
I agree you will not get favorable results with a da on headlights.maybe to finish them down perhaps.
 
Wow, I missed that Flex.

I thought a DA would be superior for minimizing scratches? No?

I am currently using a corded drill, and it sucks. I won a contest through my school so with the prize money I am buying a replacement for my worn corder drill. Ergonomically, the drill kills my bad wrist anyway.

Please explain the advantage of the rotary vs. da for headlights?

I already have the Flex 1" and 2" backing plates and two different types of Flex foam pads for each.

I need something that can run my 3M velcro backed sanding discs as well. Will the Flex do that? Thank you.
 
Custmsprty-since the Rupes backing plates seem proprietary, are they at least velcro? Can I run my 3M sanding discs (velcro backed 3" sized)
 
Wow, I missed that Flex.

I thought a DA would be superior for minimizing scratches? No?

I am currently using a corded drill, and it sucks. I won a contest through my school so with the prize money I am buying a replacement for my worn corder drill. Ergonomically, the drill kills my bad wrist anyway.

Please explain the advantage of the rotary vs. da for headlights?

I already have the Flex 1" and 2" backing plates and two different types of Flex foam pads for each.

I need something that can run my 3M velcro backed sanding discs as well. Will the Flex do that? Thank you.

I would definitely get the pe8 for headlights. I will be buying it specifically for headlight restorations cone spring time. And currently I have a gg6, flex3401, and a regular size rotary.

Some people also chose to use pneumatic tools for headlights, but it seems like you are mobile, so the pe8 would definitely be your best bet.

As for advantages, will be quicker work time, can use your existing backing plate and pads, easier to get along edges and tight spaces (due to lack of orbiting)
 
Thanks for the advice. I am REALLY leaning that way now...
 
Custmsprty-Great advice, I have been doing that with my drill. The drill is bad on my wrist (ergonomically for my old wrist injury. Maybe not for everyone).

The dedicated polisher will allow me to adjust to multiple positions which is really important for me.

I was thinking that the rotary would leave more scratches than the DA? Here is my drill results. Hard to photograph the scratches. They are there. Most would be happy with this however I am trying to reach black belt status in the headlight restoration business.



Here is another junk yard light. My third one I did. I did better on the above picture.
 
i used the PC for about a year, i upgraded to the Rupes 75e a few month back, the difference is massive!!!! the PC was vibrating my hands numb on longer jobs, the rupes is super smooth.

you can run a 3 inch sanding disc and other 3 inch pads.

its hard to swallow the cost of the Rupes, but in a year or so you will be glad you don't have to upgrade. plus the 12mm throw will help get more work done faster!
 
Thank you Matt. Comparing the DA action of the Rupes vs the Rotary Flex mini, what would be the best for headlights? Does DA really make a big difference in less visible scratches?
 
Thank you Matt. Comparing the DA action of the Rupes vs the Rotary Flex mini, what would be the best for headlights? Does DA really make a big difference in less visible scratches?


i have never done headlights with a rotary or drill. just hand, DA polisher and DA air sander. i was never happy with my hand sanding, i could never get all of the sanding marks out. i stepped up to a finishing DA air sander with a 3/32" throw. the DA sander left a much more uniform surface and made it super easy to compund out all of the sanding marks.
 
Thank you for your quick response Matt. Did you find the 3" pads (along with the orbiting action) sufficiently small enough to work on most headlights?

I am now between the Flex rotary PE8 and the DA Rupes Mini. IS the $100 more Rupes's DA $100 more efficient? I want to buy once, cry once since I am doing nothing BUT headlight restoration.

Matt, what brand model finishing hand sander would you recommend for headlights? Thank you so much for your expertise!
 
Custmsprty-since the Rupes backing plates seem proprietary, are they at least velcro?

Yes. RUPES pads use Velcro backing and can be used on most other backing plates.



Can I run my 3M sanding discs (velcro backed 3" sized)

The low OPM of the RUPES Mini is 4000 OPM - Kind of fast for machine sanding but you can do it. This is on page 13 and 14 of my RUPES how-to book.



I agree you will not get favorable results with a da on headlights.maybe to finish them down perhaps.

I use tools like the PC and Griot's DA Polishers to Machine sand headlights. Also use the Griot's 3" Mini Polisher to Machine sand Headlights.

I use and teach in my classes to use a Flex PE14 with a wool pad to remove sanding marks and then back to the DA polisher to remove the holograms out of the plastic for final finishing.



i used the PC for about a year, i upgraded to the Rupes 75e a few month back, the difference is massive!!!! the PC was vibrating my hands numb on longer jobs, the rupes is super smooth.

you can run a 3 inch sanding disc and other 3 inch pads.

The above is true and the reason why you can easily sand and buff with the LHR 75E pneumatic RUPES is because the way it's designed with a throttle lever you can control the OPMs from ZERO to 11,000 OPMs - That's a LOT of control.

See pages 14 and 15 of my RUPES how to book.

Page 16 tells you how large of an air compressor you'll need and want to run pneumatic tools like the RUPES LHR 75E, TA50, Skorpio etc.


its hard to swallow the cost of the Rupes, but in a year or so you will be glad you don't have to upgrade. plus the 12mm throw will help get more work done faster!

What I share in my RUPES how-to book is RUPES offers a great "system" approach to sanding and buffing, not just a single tool. There is a higher cost for their tools as compared to a few of the more entry level tools but the system is the benefit overall not just a high quality tool.


:)
 
Mike, thank you for responding. If you could buy only one mini sander/polisher, which one would it be? I need it to sand (with 3M 3" sanding discs) AND polish. All I will be doing is headlights, so I want the most versatile tool for the job.

I'd like to be under $400 (even use that none to buy a cheap GG to sand and a Flex PE8 or another combo for $400 or less).

Having only one machine would be ideal though if one can do it all and not numb my hands after doing one car. It seems the PC 7424 isn't counterweighted for the 3" discs....
 
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