Just bought an 05 Ram pick-up and want to do a full detail on the paint job. The truck is black and has a lot of nicks, scratches and swirls. I touched up all of the deeper scratches and chips but there a lot of surface scratched and nicks. Not sure if its safe to do a full wet sand and buff or if there is a compound I can use that will take care of it with out the need to wet sand. I can get pics of the paint surface if necessary. I have a pc 7424 buffer and have red, white and orange ccs pads.
Need advice on where to start with a full paint detail
- Thread starter eagant5
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Mantilgh
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- Dec 6, 2014
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If it's a daily driver it may best just to compound and polish and save some paint. Hopefully what isn't removed will be a little less noticeable. But, typically once the paint is polished the deeper rids will "stick out like a sore thumb" as Mike P always says.
Here an thread from Mike on taking on RIDs and wet sanding.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ghly-specialized-technique-mike-phillips.html
Here an thread from Mike on taking on RIDs and wet sanding.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ghly-specialized-technique-mike-phillips.html
- Thread starter
- #4
Yeah it is a daily driver. I'm not looking to make the paint job look 100% perfect just want it to look nice again. What's a good conpound to use and what polish should I follow it up with? I did s few areas with the mequiars ultimate compound and it's not really giving me the results I'm looking for.
Mantilgh
New member
- Dec 6, 2014
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Too many products out there that I have heard good things about including Ultimate Compound. Ultimate Polish for a follow up would be good. I haven't used either though. I use Optimum Compound II, Polish II, and LC flat pads.
Here a polish comparison chart for comparison. I like Autopia's better for its lay out and it has more products on it.
UPDATED 9/2015: Autopia Polish Comparison Chart
Here a polish comparison chart for comparison. I like Autopia's better for its lay out and it has more products on it.
UPDATED 9/2015: Autopia Polish Comparison Chart
humbucker426
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- Nov 15, 2015
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Let the touch up paint cure first for at least a week before paint detailing.
KBsToy
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- Jul 4, 2011
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:iagree: Good for a daily driver and use a QD after wash to keep up protection..
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
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What pad did you use with the UC? What speed on your machine (which is not an XP?)? How much experience do you have machine polishing?
MarkD51
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- Oct 15, 2012
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I'd say concentrate on filling all knicks, scratches first as it's not something you should go back to then after all the hard work polishing, etc.
The Dr Colorchip system is a fast, and relatively easy system in which the touch up paint dries and cures quite quickly. Still, one would be wise to wait a minimum 1-week period for all touch up work to be fully cured before moving onto Polishing, or Sealing-Waxing Steps.
Decon is important, and again should be properly done first. Most here will first wash, degrease, remove Tar, then onto products like Carpro Iron-X then Clay or a Clay Substitute Sponge-Towel.
Once those steps have been done, "then" polishing can be done.
I'd avoid wet sanding at all costs if possible, it will remove too much precious Clear Coat.
Wolfgang Uber Compound, although seemingly a little pricey, is superb at being a very good 1-step which will better remove deeper RIDS, (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) but yet it will finish down beautifully like the best very fine finishing Polishes.
It's a very easy product to work with, and will give quite stunning end results. Can't say enough good about WG Uber.
The Dr Colorchip system is a fast, and relatively easy system in which the touch up paint dries and cures quite quickly. Still, one would be wise to wait a minimum 1-week period for all touch up work to be fully cured before moving onto Polishing, or Sealing-Waxing Steps.
Decon is important, and again should be properly done first. Most here will first wash, degrease, remove Tar, then onto products like Carpro Iron-X then Clay or a Clay Substitute Sponge-Towel.
Once those steps have been done, "then" polishing can be done.
I'd avoid wet sanding at all costs if possible, it will remove too much precious Clear Coat.
Wolfgang Uber Compound, although seemingly a little pricey, is superb at being a very good 1-step which will better remove deeper RIDS, (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) but yet it will finish down beautifully like the best very fine finishing Polishes.
It's a very easy product to work with, and will give quite stunning end results. Can't say enough good about WG Uber.
- Thread starter
- #12
I was using the orange pad. Yes it is an xp. I would start will it around 2-3 speed wise then turn it up to around 4 to finish a panel. Don't have much experience with machine polishing just what I have done playing around with my own vehicles.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
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There are number of compounds that are more aggressive than UC, but you may need to work on your technique first. Normally for defect removal you would use a higher speed and more pressure, and slow the speed or reduce the pressure to "finish a panel". You are likely going to need to run at 5 or 6 on that machine for good defect removal, and you also need to be cognizant of your pressure, arm speed, and section size.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
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You need to be on speed setting 6 with any PC to get any correction.
You didn't say what size your CCS pads are?
You need and want 5.5" thin pads to get the best results from any PC DA polisher.
Click the link below and read through the entire first page. Follow the directions to mark your backing plate before you try buffing again. You need the pad rotating when you're trying to remove defects.
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
Also, if it were me I would have buffed the paint out first and then tackled the touch up paint work.
