2010 Camaro Optimum Gloss Coat New Formula

So disappointing. I guess this is how they manipulate the market and justify the huge price tag for opticoat now.

Marketing is a powerful tool. The car does need a good polish anyway. I will repolish it at some point but no more gloss coat on this one. It will get a sealant and be done. If I do coat it, it will be with something different.

Man, that sucks. Sorry to hear that, sir.

Yeah it sucks. I had high hopes for it. If my dad's car does well with gloss coat, then I guess 1 out of 2 is ain't bad lol.
 
I posted feedback on the optimum FB group. Here is the response I received. So basically don't use their polishes and it can fail early. I will let you guys discuss.

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Thanks for sharing their feedback, as I know there are a bunch of us not on Facebook that otherwise wouldn't have been able to see that.

Interesting info. Am I remembering incorrectly from a thread about the McKee's coating where some people were having performance issues with that coating when using Eraser beforehand as well?
 
Thanks for sharing their feedback, as I know there are a bunch of us not on Facebook that otherwise wouldn't have been able to see that.

Interesting info. Am I remembering incorrectly from a thread about the McKee's coating where some people were having performance issues with that coating when using Eraser beforehand as well?

Optimum Paint Prep did not come out until 2016 so I did not have access to it. So eraser had to do as I did not want to use IPA and risk marring.

What I also did not mention as a response to Yvan's comment was that I wiped the car multiple times with.

My dads car also has Gloss Coat. I used Rupes polishes but had Optimum paint prep. So if Gloss Coat fails early that must mean Rupes polishes are the culprit?

What I'm getting at is that it should not matter what finishing polish is used. I don't hear those that use M205 and cquartz say the coating failed early because eraser was not strong enough to remove polishing oils.
 
~ "it's safe to say that the solvents in 205 found themselves injected into the paint"
- Safe to say? Sounds more like a far stretch to me...

~ "Eraser, a great product, isn't enough to remove those embedded solvents"

-Why give a lame PC compliment to Eraser, if you're going to basically try and label it useless in the very same sentence?

~"205 is a nice polish, but not before a coating"

- Once again, why doesn't he tell us how he really feels?

Am I the only 1 who gets annoyed by this PC act? In their vids they spend about 2 seconds to mention how they're just looking to "teach" everyone who's viewing their vids... But every other minute of every vid is spent talking about Optimum this and how great Optimum that is [and mentioning ONR at least once every couple of minutes]. I mean I know at the end of the day it's what they're trying to sell you, but there's a way to do it and a way not to do it.

For example: I watched a recent vid where his partner demos headlight restoration.. He describes the pad he's using as a "Lake Country Rag Company microfiber pad" Then after repeating that quote about 2 more times he goes on to his next step and makes sure to let us know he's using a "Blue HDO Lake Country Rag Company Pad" and again he repeats the quote another 2-3 times... It's so bad that even he cringes every time he says it.... Just call it a dang Lake Country pad! Don't they know they're just making themselves look like.... Ehh I'll just stop.

Salesman. Hype.

Only buy my products because synergy.

Synergy = Excuse

Just my 2 cents.
 
Here's something interesting for you about Optimum. Their products do work well together and has a very high level or synergy that isn't there with a lot of other company's products. However, I find it funny because the products didn't come out at at the same time. They used to recommend 15% ipa wipe down or using something like eraser before they had optimum paint prep. So they did this for everything, from glosscoat to the pro coatings. However, bow it's because you used m205 and eraser? That's cute.

They also said you couldn't use carpro essence with glosscoat but Richy and a few others have done it no problem on here. ONR is a great product but yes the rag company videos are good info but also excessive in a lot of ways. It's basically just optimum and rag company product demo. I don't know why the rag company chose just optimum considering there's so many nice products available. It's not that their products don't work it's that their marketing is one of the more head shaking ones.

I doubt it's the eraser not working with glosscoat, too many people use eraser with different coatings for them not to work.
 
Here's something interesting for you about Optimum. Their products do work well together and has a very high level or synergy that isn't there with a lot of other company's products.

I hear you, and it's not that I really think synergy is a complete hoax... I guess the explanation about 205 just seemed a bit odd to me. I mean if that's really the case, then how long do we have to wait before we're supposed to know it's free from the so called "injected solvents"? Days? Weeks? Months? As if we didn't have enough to think about as it is... We're detailers, not scientists. Lol
 
Well it's interesting because in some ways, Yvan is right. The pores of the paint can and will absorb solvents and oils from polishing and compounding if the temperature gets up there enough. It's not a big deal when you deal with wax and sealants but it does matter when it comes to coatings. It's why in a lot of ways, a good paint cleansing lotion like the PBL or Mckee 37 paint cleansing lotion is a good idea before a coating if you use an oily polish, it gets worked into the pores and you can pull it out a lot easier, then use a round of eraser or IPA. At the same time while you don't have to use Hyper Polish if you want Glosscoat to last, I do tend to use Hyper Polish, Essence, or Reflect before I coat. I have FG400 but I don't tend to use it unless I'm spot compounding and even then it won't be the final polish as I do find Menzerna to be too oily.

Detailing can get pretty scientific when you encounter certain problems, I don't think it can be helped considering the amount of chemicals we work with. It's like why you can't Eraser and Mckee 37? Because of the lubricating agent in Eraser that doesn't play well with the solvents in M37 Paint Coating. In this instance, to get all the solvent/oils out of the pores would require you to spray down the panel while the panel is at the same temperature as during the polishing process so instead of wiping down after you're done with everything, or use a D/A and apply a paint cleansing lotion like the Mckee or PBL version so you can get the oils out of the contracted pores.

There is no reason other wise Gloss Coat would not last this long, I've seen a few members here who have used Gloss Coat and it lasted two years with decent beading towards the end and that's without any maintenance washes. I think even Corey had it on the roof of one of his cars and left it there for two years without any washes and it was still beading decently after he finally washed and clayed it.
 
I used M205 on a white hybrid followed by Menz4500 on a black hybrid last year.
A couple wipes with Griots paint prep and followed by Eraser.

One coat of Gloss Coat. Since last march washed every week or 2 depending on forecast.
Washed in garage with 2 buckets over winter and when not to dirty used a rinseless but.......used Opti-seal as a drying aid every single time and I didn't skimp.

My Gloss Coat was doing just fine but just yesterday I lathered the whole car up with Essence Plus to experiment.

It truly is some super sauce. It smoothed out the appearance and covered/disguised the few swirls.
I pretty sure it gave it a deeper darker shine.

I will still be using Opti-seal as a drying aid ( not reload ). I may just keep using up the bottle until it's gone. I know the combo will always bead and sheet the way I wash my cars.
 
There is no reason other wise Gloss Coat would not last this long, I've seen a few members here who have used Gloss Coat and it lasted two years with decent beading towards the end and that's without any maintenance washes. I think even Corey had it on the roof of one of his cars and left it there for two years without any washes and it was still beading decently after he finally washed and clayed it.

You had me there until the very end when you mentioned him claying. And then the results were noted...

Personally, the moment the layer of protection allows itself to become imbedded with contaminants, its over.

I used M205 on a white hybrid followed by Menz4500 on a black hybrid last year.
A couple wipes with Griots paint prep and followed by Eraser.

One coat of Gloss Coat. Since last march washed every week or 2 depending on forecast.
Washed in garage with 2 buckets over winter and when not to dirty used a rinseless but.......used Opti-seal as a drying aid every single time and I didn't skimp.

My Gloss Coat was doing just fine but just yesterday I lathered the whole car up with Essence Plus to experiment.

It truly is some super sauce. It smoothed out the appearance and covered/disguised the few swirls.
I pretty sure it gave it a deeper darker shine.

I will still be using Opti-seal as a drying aid ( not reload ). I may just keep using up the bottle until it's gone. I know the combo will always bead and sheet the way I wash my cars.

If you use a drying aid like Opti Seal [I'm assuming that product makes the paint bead] after every wash, wouldn't/shouldn't the paint bead forever? But how's it fare as far as a baggie test? That's what I'd be more interested in.
 
well as far as my hood I can tell you there was some bumps. I redid my hood a month or so ago after a chip repair.

I clayed first because, well just because. Iron-X, Essence, same results with Hyper polish> slight,slight minuscule hazy swirlys under intense pickiness.
SF4500 made me happy .
3 wipe downs with optimum paint prep and way too many towels.
It was a wonderful thing, then yesterday I covered it with Essence Plus....maybe out of disappoint for a Camaro or just curiosity.

This thread has me worked up because Mike knows his stuff.

As far as that synergy thing, it makes sense. BUT
I applied Opti-lens on my headlights because I had a little UV coating failure on one.
I did get a little sloppy around the edges and had dark spots around the headlights from the Opti-lens on the fender Black paint.
I didn't care because I was going to re-polish anyway.

Yesterday when I used the Essence Plus it took off the Opti-lens. It did take a few times to make it all disappear.
So either the synergy wasn't there between Gloss coat and Opti-lens or Essence Plus with a Car Pro gloss pad has a little more cut than we think.
Optimum paint prep didn't work before hand to rid the sloppiness from the Gloss Coat.

All this babbling is probably a thread derail.
Since our paint need wax/sealants, coatings to baby the clear coat so do coatings to help them perform.

So yes Eldorado, probably forever.
 
Well he had to clay because he left it on there and didn't wash it on purpose as a test. Claying it was just a test to see if it would do anything. In the same way even with a coating, you should Iron X and Tar X your paint every year or so because stuff builds up. The difference is, the coating will still be on there just fine where as most waxes will be at least partially damaged from the fallout remover.
 
I'm glad this was posted, we should be allowed to discuss failures as well as success, not everything is perfect all the time!

Something I've thought about is the cost of entry for consumer coatings is getting pretty high. It wasn't long ago where you didn't need much more than shampoo, clay, polish, and sealant to maintain a car. Coatings require special shampoo's, decontamination chemicals, prep sprays, specific polishes, applicators, etc. And then you still have to clay and decontaminate if buildup occurs.

I've very likely going to gloss coat my next car just to experience it myself. However afterward I'll definitely weigh it against using something like Optimum GPS and just maintaining with opti-seal.
 
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