s0 equivalents and which hand applicator

:iagree::iagree::iagree:
AGOatemywallet said:
If you don't have a DA, I am guessing you also don't have a Paint Thickness Gauge

Sanding with 1500 grit is serious stuff

If it was me, I would follow with 3000 grit to save my hands, shoulders and time

Compounding out 1500 on even one panel, by hand, will be exhausting
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:iagree:
 
I think he wants to remove 800 grit sanding marks by using a compound that is supposed to be the equivalent of 1000 grit and then follow that up.

We are curious of what you are working on because this is a extremely aggressive approach, and we do not want to direct you to something that will quickly destroy a paint system.

Not many people here would use such an aggressive method on a factory painted vehicle. 1500 grit is very aggressive and removes paint or clear coat quickly. I also do not hear of body shops using this method. If it is repainted, it is still very aggressive.
 
Mantilgh said:
I think he wants to remove 800 grit sanding marks by using a compound that is supposed to be the equivalent of 1000 grit and then follow that up.

We are curious of what you are working on because this is a extremely aggressive approach, and we do not want to direct you to something that will quickly destroy a paint system.

Not many people here would use such an aggressive method on a factory painted vehicle. 1500 grit is very aggressive and removes paint or clear coat quickly. I also do not hear of body shops using this method. If it is repainted, it is still very aggressive.
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That's an other reason to use this product by hand. Also a beginner could control the surface abrasion doing it by hand.... Not the same control with a polisher. Sure you can remove the clear coat with a DA or a rotary if you don't pay attention... Am I wrong?

I'm not into a particular job right now. I'm just organizing my "arsenal". I live in a town where fine sandpaper is not so easy to find. When I'm lucky and the local shop has it in the shelf, I can go up to p2000 (that is about 1200 in USA), if I'm not lucky I have to use p1500(800 cami). If I want to use finer paper I have to order it from the internet. Considering I'm not a pro detailer it is a cost which doesn't make sense...
Buying a liquid sandpaper like this will save a lot of money, it will be much faster (because basically I can skip many sandpaper and polish steps at once) and it will give me the perfect base to start with an fg400 or a s3 but if I will work well I'm sure I could directly use sf4000 or s30 (that is a fantastic thing!!!) I'm not a pro I told you, but it doesn't sound so crazy to me!

Probably the reason why not many body shops use this product is because they have their method and products, buying this expensive product would entirely change their way of doing things, also they should eliminate every other product they used before. Using this scholl liquid sandpaper is a totally different way of detailing to me because you're expanding the limits of polishes and polishers without any kind of damage to the paint (not uncommon with older liquid sandpapers)... This is not a "rocks in the bottle" product...
 
AGOatemywallet said:
Are you sure that the abrasives break down due to the moderate temperatures produced by proper DA polishing ?

A compound may cut more when used by hand, but it will cut much more efficiently when using a machine.

You may have been inspired by Mike Phillips thread using FG400 by hand to remove sanding marks. Please note the size of the area he was correcting, the time it took and the Passion (Sweat) he put into the Polishing.

Good Luck with the project.

Please take lots of close-up photos in the Sun.
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GSKR said:
I don't know where or how compound is broken down correctly by hand,just curios to what kind of project he is doing,cause none of this makes sense to me.
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The fact that the particles in this product breaks is demonstrated by the fact that it has to be worked till it dissolves...
Yes you can dissolve the product by hand... And yes you can cut properly by hand. Also, a polisher in the hands of a beginner would be dangerous so to me it's better to use an applicator...
 
sansa said:
The fact that the particles in this product breaks is demonstrated by the fact that it has to be worked till it dissolves...
Yes you can dissolve the product by hand... And yes you can cut properly by hand. Also, a polisher in the hands of a beginner would be dangerous so to me it's better to use an applicator...[/QUOTE ok it's more clear now on what your trying to do now.There is a little trade secret to your promblem,take the 1500 you were using and flip it on the back side making sure there is no dirt in you're water,then rub the panel with the back of the paper this will dramatically level all the marring from sanding making it easier for you to clean up although this is a monumental task without a da or rotary so good luck .
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GSKR said:
ok it's more clear now on what your trying to do now.There is a little trade secret to your promblem,take the 1500 you were using and flip it on the back side making sure there is no dirt in you're water,then rub the panel with the back of the paper this will dramatically level all the marring from sanding making it easier for you to clean up although this is a monumental task without a da or rotary so good luck .
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I can't quite understand what you mean. Sand the surface with the back of the sandpaper?? O_o
Please tell me more because I can't imagine how the back of the sandpaper could work...
 
FUNX650 said:
I thought this was your thread-starter's purpose:



Bob
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Yes it is. I don't want to talk about machine vs manual application but people is asking me other things...
What pad you think is the best?
 
I heard of a detailer here in Jhb SA doing a brand new F30 3 Series at a Bmw dealership. He used S0 with a machine and removed the paint on the entire car. S0 is said to be liquid sand paper used by hand and not a compound. Without a PTG or prior experience with it I will stick to M101 or Menz 300 for aggressive compounding.
 
FUNX650 said:
FWIW:
See Post #7.


Bob
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Sorry I didn't remember you wrote that...
The problem is that many others too suggest me to use a heavy cut hand applicator but scholl suggests totally different things. And actually it suggests two different things to be used by hand if you take a look at their new catalog: scholl suggests to use a medium cut hand applicator (white) but in an other part of the catalog suggests to use a felt pad with a hand backing plate...

Then scholl suggests an other completely different thing: use the fine cut (orange) pad with DA polisher! O_o

I am really confused....


Just take a look: http://www.schollconcepts.com/endco...content&view=article&id=126&Itemid=97&lang=en
 
^^^In that case then^^^

IMO:
Depends if you believe that Manufacturers
know their products best, or not.


Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
^^^In that case then^^^

IMO:
Depends if you believe that Manufacturers
know their products best, or not.


Bob
Click to expand...

How can I trust a manufacturer if he tells me 3 completely different things... Which one is the correct to you? Felt pad, medium pad or fine pad?
 
sansa said:
How can I trust a manufacturer if he tells me 3 completely different things... Which one is the correct to you? Felt pad, medium pad or fine pad?
Click to expand...
If that was my opinion of this Manufacturer...
I don't believe I'd be using their compound.

Instead...and IMHO:
•Go to Mike Phillips' articles:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...722-car-detailing-articles-mike-phillips.html

•Scroll down until you reach this bolded section:

- Wetsanding - Dampsanding - Colorsanding Topics

•And, then:
-Choose the topic/discussion that's
most specific to your project.

•For example...these look like a good place to start:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...emove-wetsanding-scratches-hand-fg-400-a.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...fing/21974-basic-hand-sanding-techniques.html


Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
If that was my opinion of this Manufacturer...
I don't believe I'd be using their compound.
Click to expand...
I meant to say I couldn't understand which statement I had to trust in my case... The first or the second?

I'm not hesitant about scholl products. They're great

Maybe they are both corrects because S0 could be a really pad dependent product... But again... I'm not an expert so I wouldn't know which one is good for my case
 
Now that you have explained that you do not have a particular victim/vehicle in mind and that you are simply adding this product to your Arsenal...I can now rest easy without being concerned with the carnage you would surely inflict with 800 grit and Scholls S0

I never thought I would suggest this, but follow Bob's advice and start over at the beginning:

Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides


If you ever do use this deadly combo, please take lots of photos.
 
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