Trying to decide what tool, if any I should get.

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PandaSauce

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I have a 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser. It's white, which is a single stage paint on this vehicle. I bought it somewhat recently and it came with a fair amount of swirl marks, pin stripes, and I think it may be getting some very minor oxidation.

I've been into detailing at what I would consider a hobbyist-level for about 13 years, but haven't ever owned a good power tool for the job. I like trying different methods and products and I detail my cars pretty regularly.

My dilemma is that this vehicle gets used for what it was intended: off roading. I drive by bushes and get pin stripes, it gets covered in mud, rocks fly up when I'm driving down trails at a good speed, etc...

I can't see it being a good idea to constantly correct my paint, but I would like to get all of the swirl marks out that it came with and then maintain at least not having swirl marks. Maybe taking out some pin stripes from time to time if they bother me.

Without a power tool of some sort, can I get good results that will bring my paint to a better-than-factory finish?

I'm considering the Meguiars drill attachment. I know it's pretty armature, but I'm not sure I want to spend ~$200 on a high quality tool and a bunch of pads.

I'm trying to get everything together for a really good detail and paint correction and so far I have:

Meguiars Gold Class wash
2 buckets with grit guards
Mother's clay bars that I'll be using Mothers Reflections Quick Wax with
Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Rubbing Compound, Polishing Compound
Meguiars No 7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars No 20 Polymer Sealant
Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnuba Wax
A bunch of foam and micro fiber hand pads and a bunch of microfiber towels

If not using a power tool, will this all get the job done?

If you do recommend a power tool, which and what pads?
 
Look at the Griots 6 inch DA. Not expensive but can do alot.
 
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I have not used the PC7424xp so i fairly can not compare those 2. What made me decide to buy mine was i did research and found ALOT of people on multiple site really talking the GG6 up. I believe if you want a "free spinning" short stroke DA this one can not be beat
 
Alright... And do you think one is needed for my application?

It would definitely be nice to have one and justifying one would make me happy, but I don't want to regret it later either.
 
PandaSauce said:
Meguiars Gold Class wash
2 buckets with grit guards
Mother's clay bars that I'll be using Mothers Reflections Quick Wax with
Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Rubbing Compound, Polishing Compound
Meguiars No 7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars No 20 Polymer Sealant
Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnuba Wax
A bunch of foam and micro fiber hand pads and a bunch of microfiber towels

If not using a power tool, will this all get the job done?

If you do recommend a power tool, which and what pads?
Click to expand...

I would add ultimate polish to your list. Maybe even consider M21 or ultimate wax as M20 has a light cleaner in it that will remove anything that was previously applied.

No need for a carnauba wax if you are going to use a sealant. You could stick with the Meguiar's family and pick up M26 if you decide to pick up a carnauba.
 
To justify it? How about your poor elbow and all of the elbow grease your going to need. It's justified in my eyes.
 
White I go with Duragloss Marine & RV Polish #501 with #601
Duragloss Marine RV Polish #501
Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent (PBA) #601
s similar to an epoxy (A&B) and bonds chemically when it comes into contact with durable polishes. Duragloss PBA will double the durability and protection of polishes when applied prior to polishing.

Step Saver Tip - Blend 1 part #601 to 4 parts of either #101, 105, 111, or 501 for added durability and gloss. Accelerates the curing process for instant bonding. Apply within 2 hours after mixing for maximum results.
 
PandaSauce said:
I have a 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser. It's white, which is a single stage paint on this vehicle. I bought it somewhat recently and it came with a fair amount of swirl marks, pin stripes, and I think it may be getting some very minor oxidation.

I've been into detailing at what I would consider a hobbyist-level for about 13 years, but haven't ever owned a good power tool for the job. I like trying different methods and products and I detail my cars pretty regularly.

My dilemma is that this vehicle gets used for what it was intended: off roading. I drive by bushes and get pin stripes, it gets covered in mud, rocks fly up when I'm driving down trails at a good speed, etc...

I can't see it being a good idea to constantly correct my paint, but I would like to get all of the swirl marks out that it came with and then maintain at least not having swirl marks. Maybe taking out some pin stripes from time to time if they bother me.

Without a power tool of some sort, can I get good results that will bring my paint to a better-than-factory finish?

I'm considering the Meguiars drill attachment. I know it's pretty armature, but I'm not sure I want to spend ~$200 on a high quality tool and a bunch of pads.

I'm trying to get everything together for a really good detail and paint correction and so far I have:

Meguiars Gold Class wash
2 buckets with grit guards
Mother's clay bars that I'll be using Mothers Reflections Quick Wax with
Meguiars Ultimate Compound, Rubbing Compound, Polishing Compound
Meguiars No 7 Show Car Glaze
Meguiars No 20 Polymer Sealant
Mothers Pure Brazilian Carnuba Wax
A bunch of foam and micro fiber hand pads and a bunch of microfiber towels

If not using a power tool, will this all get the job done?

If you do recommend a power tool, which and what pads?
Click to expand...

Has it been repainted?
 
The Guz said:
I would add ultimate polish to your list. Maybe even consider M21 or ultimate wax as M20 has a light cleaner in it that will remove anything that was previously applied.

No need for a carnauba wax if you are going to use a sealant. You could stick with the Meguiar's family and pick up M26 if you decide to pick up a carnauba.
Click to expand...

Should I buy these now or in the future when I run low on my current products?
 
PandaSauce said:
Should I buy these now or in the future when I run low on my current products?
Click to expand...

That's a tough choice. I would have at least ultimate polish or M205 as M205 will give a bit more correction and overall a more versatile product. If you already have M20 you can use that until you need something else.
 
Just the time saved by using my griots garage da to apply wax made it worth it to me. My Tacoma has a fair bit of paint to go over.

Something to think of, although you probably won't be able to remove all the brush marks and scrapes you get, polishing them can round out some of the sharp/rough edges to make them less noticeable.

This may convince you of what a DA can be capable of. I remembered this thread from almost 3 years ago the turn around was so impressive.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ck-cherry-pearl-trashed-off-road-revival.html
 
Definitely the the Clean Wheel Lugnut Brush, if you haven't already.

autogeek_2269_121697215


One of the best and most useful tools in my arsenal. Lug nut area, caliper, wheel lip, and other difficult to reach places. I have 2. One for wheel/engine compartment duty, one for emblems/body crevices.
 
You could skip all the redundancy and expenses and just get HD Speed and Poxy. You'd get great results and save a lot of money too.
 
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