Beginning stages of oxidation?

Setec Astronomy said:
Hey, don't give up so easily! Just to verify, that IS a clearcoat paint system?

If it turns out that the contractor covered it with plastic sheeting, it may just need to breathe to let the moisture out, which you can force with a heat gun, as GSKR suggested, or let it sit in the sun a bit. You will probably need to remove the wax/sealant you put on there.

Do you have any mild polish? I would polish that section, do some sort of solvent wipe, and let it breathe a bit and hope it improves. If you do need pro advice, there are plenty of competent pros in NorCal, depending of course exactly where you are.
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I agree with Setec, and I also agree with your #7 approach. #7 is a non abrasive polish, so it never hurts to be conservative. As Setec states, perhaps the next step would be a light polish. If it were me, I would place a very small pea-sized drop of Megs ScratchX on a MF and gently do a very small test spot, rubbing the pea sized amount, using a finger tip in small circles in a very small area (less than 2") for a few seconds. Don't spread it around... Just a small test spot. Then wipe. Follow up with #7 and see what that looks like.

This will accomplish two things, one it will add a very conservative / light abrasive (#2 on the cut scale), in a conservative manner (by hand, no machines required, with a MF towel) and will also cause a bit of heat as GSKR suggested. It will also prove or disprove if it's just a mild surface contaminant or something more sinister.

Please report back as soon as possible.
 
paul_g said:
I would place a very small pea-sized drop of Megs ScratchX ...

This will accomplish two things, one it will add a very conservative / light abrasive (#2 on the cut scale)
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I was under the impression that ScratchX was a lot more aggressive than that:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...anted-know-about-meguiar-s-smat-products.html

I know ScratchX has been reformulated several times, but in that thread Mike shows M205 as the least abrasive and that's a 4 on the cut scale.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Hey, don't give up so easily! Just to verify, that IS a clearcoat paint system?

If it turns out that the contractor covered it with plastic sheeting, it may just need to breathe to let the moisture out, which you can force with a heat gun, as GSKR suggested, or let it sit in the sun a bit. You will probably need to remove the wax/sealant you put on there.

Do you have any mild polish? I would polish that section, do some sort of solvent wipe, and let it breathe a bit and hope it improves. If you do need pro advice, there are plenty of competent pros in NorCal, depending of course exactly where you are.
Click to expand...

paul_g said:
I agree with Setec, and I also agree with your #7 approach. #7 is a non abrasive polish, so it never hurts to be conservative. As Setec states, perhaps the next step would be a light polish. If it were me, I would place a very small pea-sized drop of Megs ScratchX on a MF and gently do a very small test spot, rubbing the pea sized amount, using a finger tip in small circles in a very small area (less than 2") for a few seconds. Don't spread it around... Just a small test spot. Then wipe. Follow up with #7 and see what that looks like.

This will accomplish two things, one it will add a very conservative / light abrasive (#2 on the cut scale), in a conservative manner (by hand, no machines required, with a MF towel) and will also cause a bit of heat as GSKR suggested. It will also prove or disprove if it's just a mild surface contaminant or something more sinister.

Please report back as soon as possible.
Click to expand...

Yes, clear coat paint system. I do have some mild polish, as well as Scratch X. I will solvent to remove the wax/sealant, light polish (MF towel+finger) and then try to heat it up a bit with a hair dryer this afternoon. Will report back ASAP. Thanks again guys!
 
Just to note...

While clearcoats do oxidize, they tend to have clearcoat failure when they start to look whitish instead of oxidation.

Single stage paints oxidize while clearcoats simply fail or deteriorate. The difference is with oxidized single stage paint you can fix it. When it comes to clearcoat failure you cannot fix it.

If it's not a water or moisture trapped in the clearcoat issue then it does look like beginning clearcoat failure.


See the picture from this article, see how th paint is looking cloudy or milky in the center of the hood? The next progression is the paint will start to flake off.


Beginning Clearcoat Failure


2600_8_30_06OG003.JPG




:)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I was under the impression that ScratchX was a lot more aggressive than that:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...anted-know-about-meguiar-s-smat-products.html

I know ScratchX has been reformulated several times, but in that thread Mike shows M205 as the least abrasive and that's a 4 on the cut scale.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected, it's a #6. You are correct.
UPDATED 9/2015: Autopia Polish Comparison Chart

In that case, I still would use it, just go very lightly... don't bare down with a lot of pressure... No more than a pound or two of pressure, by hand... very small spot. Follow that with some #7.

If it is clear failure, then as Mike stated, not much you can do.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just to note...

While clearcoats do oxidize, they tend to have clearcoat failure when they start to look whitish instead of oxidation.

Single stage paints oxidize while clearcoats simply fail or deteriorate. The difference is with oxidized single stage paint you can fix it. When it comes to clearcoat failure you cannot fix it.

If it's not a water or moisture trapped in the clearcoat issue then it does look like beginning clearcoat failure.


See the picture from this article, see how th paint is looking cloudy or milky in the center of the hood? The next progression is the paint will start to flake off.


Beginning Clearcoat Failure


2600_8_30_06OG003.JPG




:)
Click to expand...

paul_g said:
I stand corrected, it's a #6. You are correct.
UPDATED 9/2015: Autopia Polish Comparison Chart

In that case, I still would use it, just go very lightly... don't bare down with a lot of pressure... No more than a pound or two of pressure, by hand... very small spot. Follow that with some #7.

If it is clear failure, then as Mike stated, not much you can do.
Click to expand...

Ok I will give this a try after work. Its amazes me how quickly the clear coat can fail! Thanks again everyone!
 
RDT said:
Ok I will give this a try after work. Its amazes me how quickly the clear coat can fail! Thanks again everyone!
Click to expand...


Generally they don't fail unless not taken care of. In the late 80's early 90's clear coats had a tendency to fail, especially if they were not taken care of (washed, waxed/sealed, etc...)

What year and model is your car?
 
Could they have gotten something on it paint drips or ...... not sure what they work working on. Maybe they tried a very harsh chemical to remove something gasoline, turpentine, paint thinner and rubbed the hell out that area. Looked ok when they were done but after chemicals had time to work in they softened and discolored/whitened the clear coat??????????
 
paul_g said:
Generally they don't fail unless not taken care of. In the late 80's early 90's clear coats had a tendency to fail, especially if they were not taken care of (washed, waxed/sealed, etc...)

What year and model is your car?
Click to expand...

trashmanssd said:
Could they have gotten something on it paint drips or ...... not sure what they work working on. Maybe they tried a very harsh chemical to remove something gasoline, turpentine, paint thinner and rubbed the hell out that area. Looked ok when they were done but after chemicals had time to work in they softened and discolored/whitened the clear coat??????????
Click to expand...

2005 Audi S4 Brilliant Red - CA car, washed often, garage kept, rarely driven, waxed every 2 months with clay and polish every so often.

spoke with contractor, no sheeting over car and no chemicals near the car. Family friend so fairly sure he is being honest. (was replacing water heater)
 
Something really doesn't seem right with this--can you say what town you are in so maybe we can refer you to a local pro?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Something really doesn't seem right with this--can you say what town you are in so maybe we can refer you to a local pro?
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Sure thing! I am located in Sonoma, CA. Small town just northeast of San Francisco.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I'm sorry, did you mention somewhere what kind of car this is and whether that is BC/CC or single-state paint?

That's kind of a weird mark on CC, possible your contractor working on your garage spilled something on it? Whatever it is, it would seem you are going to need something more aggressive than Meg's #7.

I'm with the guys who are saying it's trapped water from being underneath a non-breathing cover...are you sure your contractor didn't put some plastic sheeting on the car while you were away to protect it for you? My recollection is that this kind of water penetration can be difficult to correct, and if it IS that, you sealing it in with the Griot's wax isn't going to help.
Click to expand...

Could be on to something there. :dunno:

Looks to me like some sort of residue and/or moisture, (as in maybe there ***WAS*** plastic on it). Just can't see that it's CC failure at all.

Maybe a quick wash, then a panel wipe with Eraser (or your home brew with D114 and say a 30% alcohol solution) and you'll know if anything was left on the surface.

If it's some sort of saturated wax or sealant that is foggy, but not washing off.... then you'll need to polish it off. Just a light polish should do.

Don't think though that it's a paint failure problem from what I can see.
 
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