Advice for 2013 WRX Cutting/Sealing Techniques

JoshFiricano

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First post here. Hi everyone! So over this winter I've been stocking up and getting ready to go all out and make this World Rally Blue paint look like new in the spring. The car has some nice swirls from the previous owner and I'm sick of looking at them. They are VERY visible at night under street lights, but can also be seen with the right lighting during the day.
I purchased a DA Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight for $70. It has hundreds of great reviews online so I figured it was a safe place to start. I also picked up a bunch of finishing, polishing, and cutting pads.
I also got a couple new buckets and Synthetic Sheepskin wash pads. I needed a new clay bar since the ones at home are many years old. I picked up a Pinnacle clay bar set which comes with a 4 oz clay bar, 16 oz of clay bar lubricant. and a couple microfiber towels. The price was right so I couldn't say no.
After that I started research cutting compounds. After much debate I decided to go with the Meguiars M105/M205 combo. I'm going to start with the M205 and if that isn't working well enough I'm going to step up to the more abrasive M105. After the cutting stage I'm going to seal it all up with Meguiars #21 sealant.

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So I've done a lot of watching ,reading, and learning over the past couple weeks. I've read that Subaru paint tends to be on the softer side so my goal is to NOT use the M105. I'm thinking of starting with the M205 used in conjunction with a polishing pad. If that isn't working I'll move up to a cutting pad with the M205. If that isn't working I will step up to the M105. Does this sound like a good idea? I will seal the car with #21 sealant and a finishing pad.
Any techniques I should know? I've been watching a lot of autogeek video's on YouTube so I'm feeling very confident. I'm open to all suggestions.
 
I'm very new to polishing, but I don't think you should be using these cutting pads. I'm sure someone more experienced than me will offer better advice.

The pinnacle clay kit is an excellent buy for claying.

Here is a great article by Mike Phillips that is for newbies:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html

I definitely recommend you read it if you have not already.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the reply!

My original plan was to wash and dry, clay bar, M105 with a cutting pad, M205 with a polishing pad, and then #21 sealant with the finishing pad.

Then I was told I should skip the M105 all together and that the M205 would be more than sufficient since the M105 tended to stick with the soft Subaru paint and was too abrasive. So then I figured I would just use the M205 with a polishing pad and step it up to an orange if that wasn't working so well. Then I would wrap it up with #21 and a finishing pad.

Then someone told me my original plan is what I should do. I'm getting such conflicting advice that I'm totally lost! :buffing:

I bookmarked that link and will look through it. Thanks!
 
2 words, test spot! Start with the 205 on a polishing pad and step up from there. Don't worry about all that soft or hard stuff!
 
2 words, test spot! Start with the 205 on a polishing pad and step up from there. Don't worry about all that soft or hard stuff!

This is exactly what I need to do. Just test one spot. Start with the least abrasive and work my way up rather than starting with the most abrasive in which case I won't be able to work my way down. After all, the goal is to remove the defect in the least abrasive way, right?
 
Research on how and why to do a test spot, I'd also invest in a different backing plate if you have the HF one as they wobble. The HF pads are also of low quality
 
Research on how and why to do a test spot, I'd also invest in a different backing plate if you have the HF one as they wobble. The HF pads are also of low quality

Do I just look for a 6" backing plate since the HF one is 6"? Also, what makes you say the HF pads are of low quality? I know there are issues with the velcro being too large for the polisher, but the reviews seemed to say they were pretty good pads as long as they were kept clean throughout the cleaning process.

Thanks!
 
2 words, test spot! Start with the 205 on a polishing pad and step up from there. Don't worry about all that soft or hard stuff!

Exactly this.

I would recommend getting 5" pads and backing plate. The new thin Meguiar's foam discs are great.
 
Exactly this.

I would recommend getting 5" pads and backing plate. The new thin Meguiar's foam discs are great.

I could always return the pads that I bought. Any reason you recommend the smaller pads over the 6" that the stock HF DA polisher calls for?

Also are these backing plates universal? Will it bolt right on to the HF polisher?

Oh, another question. How do I get the swirls out of the intricate parts of the car such as the dips and dives of the front bumper? I'm just wondering because I've read that the pad should stay flat at all times when cutting. What technique would be used for getting in tight spaces. By hand? For an example here is a picture of my front bumper.

16485283632_863080e843_b.jpg


Thanks!
 
Do I just look for a 6" backing plate since the HF one is 6"? Also, what makes you say the HF pads are of low quality? I know there are issues with the velcro being too large for the polisher, but the reviews seemed to say they were pretty good pads as long as they were kept clean throughout the cleaning process.

Thanks!

I used the cutting pad just out of curiosity and the Velcro lasted 2 uses, they also flaked foam material. I'm not a product snob and like to find value in items but I also agree with Guz and recommend the Megs thin foam and mf pads. In regards to the polisher itself I like it and have had n issues with it. If you have the HF pads use them and see for yourself
 
I could always return the pads that I bought. Any reason you recommend the smaller pads over the 6" that the stock HF DA polisher calls for?

Also are these backing plates universal? Will it bolt right on to the HF polisher?

Oh, another question. How do I get the swirls out of the intricate parts of the car such as the dips and dives of the front bumper? I'm just wondering because I've read that the pad should stay flat at all times when cutting. What technique would be used for getting in tight spaces. By hand? For an example here is a picture of my front bumper.

16485283632_863080e843_b.jpg


Thanks!
Get a 3" backing plate and pads, again the Megs mf pads are great
Yes a 5" bp will fit the HF polisher, just get one for a da and not a rotary
 
I used the cutting pad just out of curiosity and the Velcro lasted 2 uses, they also flaked foam material. I'm not a product snob and like to find value in items but I also agree with Guz and recommend the Megs thin foam and mf pads. In regards to the polisher itself I like it and have had n issues with it. If you have the HF pads use them and see for yourself

I'll try the HF, but will most likely pick up another backing plate and the Meguiars thin pads. This is getting expensive!! :awesome:
 
Get a 3" backing plate and pads, again the Megs mf pads are great
Yes a 5" bp will fit the HF polisher, just get one for a da and not a rotary

Ahh alright I didn't realize there were smaller sized pads and backing plates for tighter areas. That cleared some things up that I was confused about. Thanks for your help!
 
With the Harbor Freight and comparable DA Polishers, people seem to go with the 5 inch backing plates and pads as the smaller/lighter ones are easier for the polisher to spin.

6 inch will work, but the extra size and weight will tend to slow down polisher a bit more.

That was my understanding at least. Just picked up a Chicago Electric Random Orbit at HF. Thing was crazy cheap on sale, and 20% coupon made it a no brainer.

Got some grease to repack the gears with, and a Lake Country 5 inch backing plate. Will probably get it modded and give it a try in the next week or two with some Hexlogic pads.
 
just my opinion.
105 and 205 are great products but i feel 105 is not beginner friendly.
It dries up real quick and is hard to take off. I would have recommended
that you got menzerna fg400 if you wanted something aggressive.
If you decide to use the 105 have a spray bottle if water handy.
 
With the Harbor Freight and comparable DA Polishers, people seem to go with the 5 inch backing plates and pads as the smaller/lighter ones are easier for the polisher to spin.

6 inch will work, but the extra size and weight will tend to slow down polisher a bit more.

That was my understanding at least. Just picked up a Chicago Electric Random Orbit at HF. Thing was crazy cheap on sale, and 20% coupon made it a no brainer.

Got some grease to repack the gears with, and a Lake Country 5 inch backing plate. Will probably get it modded and give it a try in the next week or two with some Hexlogic pads.

Good info here thanks. That does make sense. I'll grab a 5 inch and 3 inch backing plate along with the corresponding pads. Should make the job easier. Thanks!

just my opinion.
105 and 205 are great products but i feel 105 is not beginner friendly.
It dries up real quick and is hard to take off. I would have recommended
that you got menzerna fg400 if you wanted something aggressive.
If you decide to use the 105 have a spray bottle if water handy.

I have read that. The M205 has a much longer working time than the M105. If I do use the M105 I plan on doing very small sections at a time. Thanks for the info!
 
I'm new to machine polishing and 105 isn't that bad. It does dry quickly, and will dust but I've found that frequent pad cleaning/replacing and occasional water misting help.
 
So I found a Lake Country 5" backing plate that fits the 5/16" thread that the HF DA Polisher has. I'm looking for a 3" backing plate, but I can't find any that talks about fitting a 5/16" thread. Is there something I should be looking for?
 
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