choijw2
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- Jul 25, 2015
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That degreasing solvent wasn't by chance trichlorothane or trichloroethylene was it? Unfortunately, I've been up to my elbows (both) in 5 gallon buckets with both products with no gloves on...many times. When you pull your hands out of the bucket they are cold because the solvent evaporates so quickly. The gloves were no use anyway because within 15 minutes they would begin to break down. Employer didn't like having to furnish so many gloves (you could tell). I believe both were banned because of being cancer causing. That was in the early 90's. Now I'm starting to develop little water blisters all over my arms...some are dry and spots that itch and won't go away. I'd hate to say what complications from exposure will do to me in the future.To be fair to the carnauba chips, not every material is susceptible to every solvent, no matter how strong it is.
I remember many years ago a coworker telling me a story, a chlorinated degreasing solvent was routinely used to wipe down workbenches. This solvent was a potent degreaser, and would dissolve things like styrofoam coffee cups, melt certain rubbers, and remove certain paints. Someone had put a coffee cup down on the workbench and left a ring. This worker scrubbed and scrubbed at the coffee ring with the solvent, but the ring wouldn't budge. Ultimately he tried some water, and the ring came right off.
It's possible that body prep solvent that you're using might work very well on a variety of other things, just not on carnauba. And perhaps another brand of "body prep solvent" might have a slightly different mix of solvents and would have broken down those flakes right away.
To be fair to the carnauba chips, not every material is susceptible to every solvent, no matter how strong it is.
I remember many years ago a coworker telling me a story, a chlorinated degreasing solvent was routinely used to wipe down workbenches. This solvent was a potent degreaser, and would dissolve things like styrofoam coffee cups, melt certain rubbers, and remove certain paints. Someone had put a coffee cup down on the workbench and left a ring. This worker scrubbed and scrubbed at the coffee ring with the solvent, but the ring wouldn't budge. Ultimately he tried some water, and the ring came right off.
It's possible that body prep solvent that you're using might work very well on a variety of other things, just not on carnauba. And perhaps another brand of "body prep solvent" might have a slightly different mix of solvents and would have broken down those flakes right away.
That degreasing solvent wasn't by chance trichlorothane or trichloroethylene was it? Unfortunately, I've been up to my elbows (both) in 5 gallon buckets with both products with no gloves on...many times. I believe both were banned because of being cancer causing.
Optimum Power Clean 3:1 will strip wax/sealants. Give it a try and you will see. However I would still say a light polish is quicker as the OPC method took a lot of towels and scrubbing to actually remove the hazey substance that the wax/sealant turns into.
You can also add some OPC to your car wash and it will strip and easier to remove residue since you're washing already.
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Negative. Try and see.I doubt it is removing any sealant. If it doesn't bead after washing with OPC just give it a quick wipe down with IPA and I'll bet the beading returns.
Same old story--the OPC leaves surfactants behind that hide that cause water to sheet and when you remove the surfactants with IPA the beading returns.
I'm not trying to promote anything, but last weekend I washed my car with a super high concentration (I was being stupid generous) of citrus wash and gloss. When I did my pre rinse the water was beading right off since I did a thorough application of D156 2 weeks ago and sonax PNS 1 month ago, after using the foam canon and did my final rinse, the water clinged on like I've never seen before. I took that as stripping the wax. I was actually really pissed until I looked online and saw it does actually remove wax in high concentrations! Sure it wasn't a thick layer of protection, but there was definitely no wax or sealant left of the car. I personally don't doubt there's such things as wax removers and would imagine they're easy to make and should be very cheap.
I'm highly skeptical - it takes some effort to remove most modern sealants worth their salt. I've seen multiple tests on here where people have used a lot of different chemicals to strip sealants like Powerlock and it ended up taking acidic wheel cleaners to get anything done, IIRC
That degreasing solvent wasn't by chance trichlorothane or trichloroethylene was it? Unfortunately, I've been up to my elbows (both) in 5 gallon buckets with both products with no gloves on...many times. When you pull your hands out of the bucket they are cold because the solvent evaporates so quickly. The gloves were no use anyway because within 15 minutes they would begin to break down. Employer didn't like having to furnish so many gloves (you could tell). I believe both were banned because of being cancer causing. That was in the early 90's. Now I'm starting to develop little water blisters all over my arms...some are dry and spots that itch and won't go away. I'd hate to say what complications from exposure will do to me in the future.
I doubt it is removing any sealant. If it doesn't bead after washing with OPC just give it a quick wipe down with IPA and I'll bet the beading returns.
Same old story--the OPC leaves surfactants behind that hide that cause water to sheet and when you remove the surfactants with IPA the beading returns.
that means nothing, beading doesn't prove there is anything on there one way or the other.
that means nothing, beading doesn't prove there is anything on there one way or the other.
I don't believe in any soap capable of stripping wax or sealants. Dawn is bad enough for other parts of your car and it doesn't even strip anything. I don't want to use chemicals capable of stripping LSPs during the wash process. It's safer and more thorough to do it through claying and light polishing.
Beading alone does't, but the characteristics of the beading and comparison of each section provides insight. Certainly glass alone beads differently than wax, sealant, coating, paint and I am confident in Stevie's ability to discern the difference.
If it was all stripped, the beading would all just be glass and would all look the same as the hydrophic properties would be consistent between the segments.
If you have a different method, please share.