I want wax that sheets water!

Loach said:
I got hit with bird bombs on a few occasions on the silver test car with PNS on the hood and I didn't notice any etching after washing. But I'm washing test spots often, so no contamination has a lot of time to set up in one spot. The real test for etching here in Florida is love bug season, and when they pop up again both PNS and FK1000p are going head to head to see how they can handle those devils on the front of the blue test car. The blue test car already has tons of deep etchings from love bugs that happened before I got my hands on the paintwork.

Now is the time to grab Polymer Net Shield if you're on the fence. Autogeek has the new 340ml size on sale for $25 and the SONAX20 code should take an additional 20% off, if it doesn't work in the cart I'd send one of the guys an e-mail to see if they will honor it.



I agree, seems to me that the more hydrophobic the surface of the paint is, the more those water beads want to be absorbed into the drying towel which also seems to help in leaving less water streaks behind.
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how did these do side by side? or is the season not around yet?
 
paul_g said:
Does anyone have a video to demonstrate the difference between sheeting and beading. I know what beading is (which was always a good thing back in the day).
But I don't think I've seen sheeting... or maybe I have and didn't know I did. :/
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Loach has a video on his Wax Mode channel - Meguiar's M21 vs Ultimate Wax (liquid) that really seems to illustrate the difference.

The Ultimate Wax demonstrates tighter beads that roll off the surface, where M21 has more of the "sheeting" effect.
 
PiPUK said:
There are a bunch of factors which mean that this may or may not be the case. For example, a very large number of sealant type products are excellent at repelling water but are in fact oleophillic. What this means is they repel water but oils stick. If you were to spray oil onto the paint, it would stick really well and give a true 'sheet'. In laymans terms that means that the finish repels water and attracts anything oily/greasy (i.e. soiling). There are lots of really hydrophobic coatings which claim to be self cleaning but are in fact very inclined to contamination with oily soiling (more so than without the product) and are also very hard to clean (hydrophobic - remember - water is repelled so it has a hard time wetting the soiling!). In an ideal world, you want a finish which is oleophobic (repels oils) yet hydrophillic (water sticks - sheets). This means that oils don't stick well and any which do are easily removed because water is attracted to the surface and can easily wet the oily soils. I do not believe such a thing exists! For now, a bit of oleophobicity is a good start - but when did you last see a detailing brand mention the term (never?!)?

Oh - slickness/roughness... whole other area again!
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Years ago, 2008 to be exact, I worked at a car wash. The owner had me take my car through to show people the soap "show" after he did some reconfiguring to his arches. When I pulled around he said there was so much wax on my car that the soap didn't stick to the paint. Turtle Wax Ice Paste was what I was using then. Everyone who worked there used it, as did the manager when he "detailed" customer cars.

I had tried some Turtle Wax Ice Paste on cars that I was maintaining for my neighbor, and found this to be the case hand washing too. That even thoigh the car was dirty, the water wouldn't want to stay on the car. I assume now it was from the oils sticking to the paint. I had to flow the water on the paint as I washed it for fear of not having that layer of water between the mitt, and the surface.

Thanks for that information.
 
I kind of gave up on waxes and sealants that will behave as I believe they should in my mind, and go for something reasonably durable, that I've experienced will hang on the surface for an extended amount of time.

My Ideal would be water that immediately rolls off the paint as soon as it hits the surface - however, that might not work for washing the car.

I try an keep it simple, and use M21, or Ultimate Wax. Duragloss 111, and 101 impress me the most though. With the 111, and 101, they seem very resistant to washing. I did that carwash owner's Lincoln with 111, and that stuff hung on for months - even through his tunnel washes. The sides gave way quicker, but the top lasted for about a year. Those side brushes are pretty brutal. The curtains aren't nearly was bad.

I did a relative's car in August with Ultimate Wax and M21 and at this point they're still holding up, but not as robust as the sections I did with 111.
 
dlc95 said:
I kind of gave up on waxes and sealants that will behave as I believe they should in my mind, and go for something reasonably durable, that I've experienced will hang on the surface for an extended amount of time.

My Ideal would be water that immediately rolls off the paint as soon as it hits the surface - however, that might not work for washing the car.

I try an keep it simple, and use M21, or Ultimate Wax. Duragloss 111, and 101 impress me the most though. With the 111, and 101, they seem very resistant to washing. I did that carwash owner's Lincoln with 111, and that stuff hung on for months - even through his tunnel washes. The sides gave way quicker, but the top lasted for about a year. Those side brushes are pretty brutal. The curtains aren't nearly was bad.

I did a relative's car in August with Ultimate Wax and M21 and at this point they're still holding up, but not as robust as the sections I did with 111.
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I'm consistently blown away by how long the DG111 gloss hangs on. It just goes and goes.
 
Harpolith said:
I'm consistently blown away by how long the DG111 gloss hangs on. It just goes and goes.
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It really does. I'm trying it with some 601 Bonding Agent for the first time this winter. I have full confidence it will be fine.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Flood rinse your car and every wax will "sheet" right off the paint.
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So many detailers miss this important tip. It was Mike Phillips who first posted this on a forum a long time ago. I like to take a section of hose and cut off the fitting from one end, and that becomes my car rinsing nozzle.

RamAirV1
 
RamAirV1 said:
So many detailers miss this important tip. It was Mike Phillips who first posted this on a forum a long time ago. I like to take a section of hose and cut off the fitting from one end, and that becomes my car rinsing nozzle.

RamAirV1
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Get a Quick disconnect shut off for the male end of your hose.

Shut it off, pop out your sprayer, and Bammo! Instant flood rinse........ ;)
 
For the last 2 years I have been using Duragloss products on my CaymanS, it’s gloss hangs on (111, or 601 followed by 105). And then maintain with Aquawax
 
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