Interior Dressings

FreshRides said:
Well is it actually "bad" to just clean the area and call it a day? Do the protectants really do THAT much for the vehicles? I feel like it would be like a wax, wears off in a few weeks and only proper maintenance will take care of that. Which most people don't want to do and they don't want to pay me every 2 weeks to do it. Haha.
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Have you ever tried Megs D156 Spray Wax in place of protectant? Some people have reported great results using it that way inside the vehicle.
 
FreshRides said:
Well is it actually "bad" to just clean the area and call it a day? Do the protectants really do THAT much for the vehicles? I feel like it would be like a wax, wears off in a few weeks and only proper maintenance will take care of that. Which most people don't want to do and they don't want to pay me every 2 weeks to do it. Haha.
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I prefer doing more than just cleaning the interior, but I keep my vehicles for a long time, and I want to keep them looking good for as long as I can. No cracked dash hoopties in the home fleet. :)

If you're detailing professionally, an all-in-one cleaner/protectant would be ideal. If you find that using a separate cleaner & protectant offers something beneficial over an AIO product, adding that process to a higher level detailing package would make sense. Anything that takes more time & product, but delivers superior results, should be priced at a premium, IMO.

WRT 303 protectant, I find that if I keep the interior clean, I can simply re-apply 303 with an MF cloth, wipe on, and buff off the remainder. The MF does a good job of picking up the little dust on the surface, so I don't usually bother with a separate cleaning step. I've found that the key to using most 303 products is to buff the excess product from the surface, as directed. Otherwise, the results are disappointing.
 
scuff said:
Clean surface, spray on an applicator, wipe on surface, buff off residue. Pretty friendly, IMO.
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How do you buff it off the underside of window switches, steering wheel controls and their boots, and inbetween radio control buttons? Then there are the words "residue" and "streaking" that i don't want to bother dealing with AT ALL.
 
AuroraDetailing said:
How do you buff it off the underside of window switches, steering wheel controls and their boots, and inbetween radio control buttons? Then there are the words "residue" and "streaking" that i don't want to bother dealing with AT ALL.
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Since I spray 303 on a MF application cloth, an MF buffing cloth can reach any place that the application cloth deposited it. For interior use, I rarely spray it directly onto a surface. I know the directions call for that, but I find that can be a wasteful, needlessly messy practice. Why spray any product directly into switchgear when it can be cleaned by spraying the product onto a cloth?

I'm not aware of any interior cleaning/protectant product that works simply by spraying it on a surface and calling it good. If there is one that can vaporize contaminants so no mechanical agitation/removal is required, I'd like to try it.
 
Recd the CG Silk Shine the other day, like it a lot. Looks great, not too much shine. Thanks to those who suggested it!
 
scuff said:
I prefer doing more than just cleaning the interior, but I keep my vehicles for a long time, and I want to keep them looking good for as long as I can. No cracked dash hoopties in the home fleet. :)

If you're detailing professionally, an all-in-one cleaner/protectant would be ideal. If you find that using a separate cleaner & protectant offers something beneficial over an AIO product, adding that process to a higher level detailing package would make sense. Anything that takes more time & product, but delivers superior results, should be priced at a premium, IMO.

WRT 303 protectant, I find that if I keep the interior clean, I can simply re-apply 303 with an MF cloth, wipe on, and buff off the remainder. The MF does a good job of picking up the little dust on the surface, so I don't usually bother with a separate cleaning step. I've found that the key to using most 303 products is to buff the excess product from the surface, as directed. Otherwise, the results are disappointing.
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Yeah that makes sense. I have 3 packages for interiors. Which the base package (Deluxe) is a vacuum, quick wipe down, dress areas wiped down, then apply dressing, and Windows cleaned. So instead I could just use a AIO.

Only thing is when the door panels or center console arm rest are soiled with grease and oils from skin they expect that gone and I know most AIO products can't offer that. Then customers get mad because they don't understand that they have to spend a little more to receive a higher result.

Similar to when I did a wash and wax for an older gentleman this past week. A wash and wax is pretty self explanatory, but he was pretty upset that I didn't get the scuffs out of his outside rocker panels and get the oxidization off the paint. When prior to doing that job I told him that a clay bar treatment is highly recommended. He said anywhere else he would have went would have taken care of them scuffs. In my head I'm thinking, "then take it somewhere else if they're willing to do work for free." Haha
 
FreshRides said:
Yeah that makes sense. I have 3 packages for interiors. Which the base package (Deluxe) is a vacuum, quick wipe down, dress areas wiped down, then apply dressing, and Windows cleaned. So instead I could just use a AIO.

Only thing is when the door panels or center console arm rest are soiled with grease and oils from skin they expect that gone and I know most AIO products can't offer that. Then customers get mad because they don't understand that they have to spend a little more to receive a higher result.

Similar to when I did a wash and wax for an older gentleman this past week. A wash and wax is pretty self explanatory, but he was pretty upset that I didn't get the scuffs out of his outside rocker panels and get the oxidization off the paint. When prior to doing that job I told him that a clay bar treatment is highly recommended. He said anywhere else he would have went would have taken care of them scuffs. In my head I'm thinking, "then take it somewhere else if they're willing to do work for free." Haha
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Can't argue with that. I was looking at http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ike-phillips-vif-vehicle-inspection-form.html . If you don't already use something like that, it may help demystify the definition of "wash and wax" for your next grumbler.
 
Here is one picture of Silk Shine which is on the right and notice how it is dark, matte, and streak free unlike the product on the left.

IMAG1255_zps0f639666.jpg
 
And the product on the left is...

Maybe it's the lighting, but the product on the left looks more uniform. I mean if you want it dark, that's great. But I would be good with the results on the left. I would pick the one easier to use if longevity was decent for both.
 
ducksfan said:
And the product on the left is...

Maybe it's the lighting, but the product on the left looks more uniform. I mean if you want it dark, that's great. But I would be good with the results on the left. I would pick the one easier to use if longevity was decent for both.
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The one in the left isn't sold at AG, but look on the smooth plastic above the volume rocker. It's pretty streaky. Silk shine is completely uniform, very easy to use and lasts quite a while.
 
I first clean with a APC then apply Meg's Natural Shine Protectant. It is not oily and leaves a nice shine.
 
SYMAWD said:
Here is one picture of Silk Shine which is on the right and notice how it is dark, matte, and streak free unlike the product on the left.

IMAG1255_zps0f639666.jpg
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Wow! Huge difference! How long does Silk Shine last?
 
I like Wolfgang Cockpit Trim Sealant . Darkens a little, leaves no shine and leaves a slick surface that makes everything very easy to wipe clean for months. Disclaimer its little to slick for steering wheels and seats if you race/autocross (but good for eliminating dragging and wear from sliding in and out of the seat).
 
Mike Honcho said:
Wow! Huge difference! How long does Silk Shine last?
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On a dash, I've seen over a year but on areas that get touched often, closer to a month or so simply because your hands wear it away.
 
SYMAWD said:
The one in the left isn't sold at AG, but look on the smooth plastic above the volume rocker. It's pretty streaky. Silk shine is completely uniform, very easy to use and lasts quite a while.
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Ok, I wasn't looking past the textured part of the plastic.
 
scuff said:
Since I spray 303 on a MF application cloth, an MF buffing cloth can reach any place that the application cloth deposited it. For interior use, I rarely spray it directly onto a surface. I know the directions call for that, but I find that can be a wasteful, needlessly messy practice. Why spray any product directly into switchgear when it can be cleaned by spraying the product onto a cloth?

I'm not aware of any interior cleaning/protectant product that works simply by spraying it on a surface and calling it good. If there is one that can vaporize contaminants so no mechanical agitation/removal is required, I'd like to try it.
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I don't spray anything for the interior either. Like you said, it wastes product and i don't want to get it on the windows and have to waste time cleaning it off. It just seems you have to really be on top of that product to keep it from streaking, and no matter how careful you are, there will probably be areas you'll have to go over to buff out. Plus the directions says to have a clean surface first, so it's not intended to be used as a cleaner. I clean everything first. Then I use Silk Shine using a paint brush to get into every crevice and a Terryterry cloth sponge applicator for the major areas. I don't have to worry about how long it sits or if it's going to streak, or if it's in direct sunlight. I do the whole interior, then come back and wipe it all off in the same order. No buffing and no worrying about streaks, and it lasts longer than 3-5 weeks.

I'm just saying if you get a chance, you should give Silk Shine a try. It's highly recommended by lots of people on here.
 
AuroraDetailing said:
I don't spray anything for the interior either. Like you said, it wastes product and i don't want to get it on the windows and have to waste time cleaning it off. It just seems you have to really be on top of that product to keep it from streaking, and no matter how careful you are, there will probably be areas you'll have to go over to buff out. Plus the directions says to have a clean surface first, so it's not intended to be used as a cleaner. I clean everything first. Then I use Silk Shine using a paint brush to get into every crevice and a Terryterry cloth sponge applicator for the major areas. I don't have to worry about how long it sits or if it's going to streak, or if it's in direct sunlight. I do the whole interior, then come back and wipe it all off in the same order. No buffing and no worrying about streaks, and it lasts longer than 3-5 weeks.

I'm just saying if you get a chance, you should give Silk Shine a try. It's highly recommended by lots of people on here.
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Makes sense, and it may end up in my cart for the current sale. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
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