What polish/cleaner for these wheels?

oc412

oc412

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Just wanted to know what you all would do to clean these up. I am going to be doing a full detail on this vehicle soon. I did the interior today and a basic wash on it. My client just had it painted so in a few months I will do a full exterior detail on it. The wheels aren't in the best shape and there is rust on the spokes. I was going to use P21 polishing soap but I don't know if that is safe for these. Suggestions? I was going to use 3d BDX or Iron X to get rid of the rust and clean them. Is there a polish you all would recommend? I'll do the wheels by hand.
 
IronX hopefully will work in getting rid of the rust. But understand that rail dust, brake dust and other metallic contaminants is very different from rust itself. Use a layered approach and hopefully the worst case scenario doesn't come to fruition --> Clay, IronX, Polish, Decontamination, Sanding

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ove-little-rust-colored-dots-white-paint.html
CarPro Paint Decontamination Kit, paint cleaning kit, tar x, iron x

As for the wheels, you can try Amazing Rolloff, Mothers Wheel Cleaner, Megs Wheel Brightener, a strong APC/Degreader or a mechanical product like Mothers Powerball or a similar Megs product. At the very least the wheels will probably look 50% better once done and what will likely remain would be tougher sections where rust has set in thick.
 
Iron X or similar will help in cleaning. But what is the exact wheel finish? This is crucial for your plan of attack.
 
mwoolfso said:
IronX hopefully will work in getting rid of the rust. But understand that rail dust, brake dust and other metallic contaminants is very different from rust itself. Use a layered approach and hopefully the worst case scenario doesn't come to fruition --> Clay, IronX, Polish, Decontamination, Sanding

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ove-little-rust-colored-dots-white-paint.html
CarPro Paint Decontamination Kit, paint cleaning kit, tar x, iron x

As for the wheels, you can try Amazing Rolloff, Mothers Wheel Cleaner, Megs Wheel Brightener, a strong APC/Degreader or a mechanical product like Mothers Powerball or a similar Megs product. At the very least the wheels will probably look 50% better once done and what will likely remain would be tougher sections where rust has set in thick.
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Thanks for the info. I have megs wheel brightener but wasn't sure if it would be safe and the car is so low I can't get to the back area to do a small test spot. I was def thinking Iron-X as well. I'll check out the link.
 
CarolinasFinestDetailing said:
Iron X or similar will help in cleaning. But what is the exact wheel finish? This is crucial for your plan of attack.
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They looked like regular chrome spoke wheels but the owner wasn't sure. He said he got the car with them on it. They look to have been painted or something because the lips of the wheel were chrome where paint had come off, but the paint was kind of a matte finish. He had no idea so I didn't want to use Megs wheel brightener on them. I just used Nanoskin non acid wheel and tire cleaner for the basic wash, but when I do the detail I was hoping to polish them up by hand a little bit and get rid of the rust.
 
Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination: "Iron X should not be used on bare metal parts ..."

There's a difference between removing iron contamination from an intact surface coating, and letting the chemical attack the base metal under the coating. If you can see rust that has broken through the finish, I'd test the Iron X on a rusty spot before hosing down a whole wheel. Having to pay for peeling the rest of the finish off of those wheels would be painful.
 
scuff said:
Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination: "Iron X should not be used on bare metal parts ..."

There's a difference between removing iron contamination from an intact surface coating, and letting the chemical attack the base metal under the coating. If you can see rust that has broken through the finish, I'd test the Iron X on a rusty spot before hosing down a whole wheel. Having to pay for peeling the rest of the finish off of those wheels would be painful.
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Good catch on that. I always tell people that damage could occur when trying to fix shitty wheels like that. I also have a small disclaimer on my VIP form to protect me from paying for damages like that.
 
They look like anodized red. I would advise the customer to replace them. That look died 15-20 years ago. He need to lift it and get some 26's on there to update. Just kidding on the 26's. Seriously he should check and see how old those tires are. I can't see the size, they don't look like 13's so he's not necessarily in immediate danger, but the tire does look like it's too small for the car which means it's not designed to carry the weight of the vehicle. If they are 5-6 years old he's just asking for tire failure. A lot of people don't know these things. Hate to see anyone get hurt because they simply didn't know, so please advise him to have the tires checked out.
 
DaveT435 said:
They look like anodized red. I would advise the customer to replace them. That look died 15-20 years ago. He need to lift it and get some 26's on there to update. Just kidding on the 26's. Seriously he should check and see how old those tires are. I can't see the size, they don't look like 13's so he's not necessarily in immediate danger, but the tire does look like it's too small for the car which means it's not designed to carry the weight of the vehicle. If they are 5-6 years old he's just asking for tire failure. A lot of people don't know these things. Hate to see anyone get hurt because they simply didn't know, so please advise him to have the tires checked out.
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Yeah he did say he was getting new tires. The ones on it were dry rotted and pretty dried out. Im not sure what size they were. He had switches on the whole car so I am assuming the tires bounce up and down off the ground.
 
oc412 said:
Yeah he did say he was getting new tires. The ones on it were dry rotted and pretty dried out. Im not sure what size they were. He had switches on the whole car so I am assuming the tires bounce up and down off the ground.
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Sounds like the perfect time to price that portion of the work high enough that he decides to skip it and put the money on the new tires & wheels. A little less money for you, but no chance of a headache, either.
 
scuff said:
Sounds like the perfect time to price that portion of the work high enough that he decides to skip it and put the money on the new tires & wheels. A little less money for you, but no chance of a headache, either.
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That's probably what I'll end up doin.... Thx
 
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