Waterspot on Glass that has been etched for approx 6 years

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Shonen

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Hi guys Im new in here... Just want to ask for the pro and enthusiat car care in here. Recently I bought primo glass polish to diminish water spot and mold that has etched for approx. 6 years on my car's windshield and window but the problem is I can't get rid them all because all i used was my hand and the applicator that included it in.. It's pretty damn tired..haha.. (I dont have da and rotary polisher)
I'm looking for more abbrasive stuff to clear my glass by hand. All i want to ask is :
1. Is it possible and safe to use m105 to scrub on my windshield ?
2. Is it less effort than my glass polish ?
3. Are there any product that you recommend to diminish this stubborn waterspot on my car glass ?

Thx for the kind input much appreciate it
 
CarPro's Ceriglass, their glass pads, and a polisher.

Without a machine polisher it will take a long time if they are etched into the glass. From the threads that I have read, it takes a long time even when using a machine.

They do have a kit with a hand polishing block.

CarPro Ceriglass Kit, glass polish, water spot remover

Here are some good threads on using it with a polisher for reference.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...removal-glass-scratches-carpro-griots-da.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/43988-review-carpro-ceriglass.html
 
Shonen said:
Recently I bought primo glass polish

I'm looking for more abbrasive stuff
to clear my glass by hand.

All i want to ask is :
1. Is it possible and safe to use m105 to scrub on my windshield ?
2. Is it less effort than my glass polish ?
3. Are there any product that you recommend to
diminish this stubborn waterspot on my car glass ?
Click to expand...
First:
:welcome: ...to AGO!

Secondly:
I don't consider the Primo aerosol product
you purchased a very abrasive, or effective,
glass polish.

Now...on to your specific questions:
1.) Yes, I consider Meguiar's M105 to be
safe to use on the water spotted windshield.
2.) I can't really say there will be a noticeable
difference in the amount of effort, but I suspect
you'll notice a very huge difference in the results!
3.) Since you'll be going about this task without
the benefit of a polisher/buffer...I'll recommend
using Meguiar's M04 on a terry cloth towel.



Bob
 
As Bob said, you can use Meguiar`s M105 then follow up with say M205 on your windshield. To be perfectly honest, you will be super tired. Bets results are achieved with a machine and a serum oxide polish along with proper pads. Good luck.
 
At 1:46 to 1:50 of the above link is all you need to know...polishing is the still needed at times in replacement to using this product according to his own words. Listen for yourself. Words mean things. Just ask any lawyer. LOL!

About 3minutes in he says the spots on the windows are not from the sprinklers (which is probably what he meant...but again words mean things and so does the correct order in which they are said), but he said the spots are from the fertilizers in the ground. HUH? There may be fertilizers in the ground but they certainly wouldn't splash that high up on a window. So, how did the fertilizers from the ground get there? LOL! Okay...after reviewing again, it appears the window is near the ground so I suppose some splashing is possible. However, it's more likely the mineral deposits are from sprinklers, but we can't know because he didn't give those details, so I still doubt it's fertilizer splashing.

AT 1:44 to 1:47 he talks about glass being in stage II corrosion. Huh? Glass can actually breakdown? That is what he's saying. Note...corrosion and mineral build up are 2 different things entirely. At 3:40 to 3:45 he says, "if glass is in stage II corrosion (corrosion, he said) the glass will turn immediately....95% of all that glass that's on the market (no mention or concern for very old glass) is savable". Turn what/how? I guess he's telling us 95% of the glass encountered hasn't actually corroded or broken down. LOL! (Meanwhile...I know he's talking about mineral deposits, but he hasn't eluded to it yet. LOL!) Wait for it...at 4:29 he says we can use a scraper. Somehow I knew that was coming.

He said himself he wasn't a window cleaner, and he's certainly not a very good salesman either. Limegone, Limeaway, muratic acid or other acids would remove that scale, but like his product...I wouldn't use any of them on automotive glass. Period! I would use only recommended automotive glass specific products...many are sold here at AG. If a rubbing compound can't fix it by hand, then I'm sure Mike and Nick have a few more options up their sleeves that are increasingly more aggressive.
 
Hoytman said:
At 1:46 to 1:50 of the above link is all you need to know...polishing is the still needed at times in replacement to using this product according to his own words. Listen for yourself. Words mean things. Just ask any lawyer. LOL!

About 3minutes in he says the spots on the windows are not from the sprinklers (which is probably what he meant...but again words mean things and so does the correct order in which they are said), but he said the spots are from the fertilizers in the ground. HUH? There may be fertilizers in the ground but they certainly wouldn't splash that high up on a window. So, how did the fertilizers from the ground get there? LOL! Okay...after reviewing again, it appears the window is near the ground so I suppose some splashing is possible. However, it's more likely the mineral deposits are from sprinklers, but we can't know because he didn't give those details, so I still doubt it's fertilizer splashing.

AT 1:44 to 1:47 he talks about glass being in stage II corrosion. Huh? Glass can actually breakdown? That is what he's saying. Note...corrosion and mineral build up are 2 different things entirely. At 3:40 to 3:45 he says, "if glass is in stage II corrosion (corrosion, he said) the glass will turn immediately....95% of all that glass that's on the market (no mention or concern for very old glass) is savable". Turn what/how? I guess he's telling us 95% of the glass encountered hasn't actually corroded or broken down. LOL! (Meanwhile...I know he's talking about mineral deposits, but he hasn't eluded to it yet. LOL!) Wait for it...at 4:29 he says we can use a scraper. Somehow I knew that was coming.

He said himself he wasn't a window cleaner, and he's certainly not a very good salesman either. Limegone, Limeaway, muratic acid or other acids would remove that scale, but like his product...I wouldn't use any of them on automotive glass. Period! I would use only recommended automotive glass specific products...many are sold here at AG. If a rubbing compound can't fix it by hand, then I'm sure Mike and Nick have a few more options up their sleeves that are increasingly more aggressive.
Click to expand...
acidic chemicals do work great on everything except the front windshield.Im not condoning this method but rather say this is my approach to glass etchings.ag sells spot removers for glass Or just follow bob suggestion.
 
Yes, without risking personal safety, paint and glass safety, there are numerous and increasingly aggressive options for removing mineral deposits from glass. Liquids and lotions and other potions, foam pads and glass specific polishing pads, along with ideas on technique from a pro like Mike are the best place to find solutions to the problem.

I can see it now...

Some poor fool pouring acids straight from the bottle onto his glass and it running onto and into other vehicle surfaces. Yep...the use of acids for automotive glass mineral deposit removal takes a bit of common sense and perhaps even some training or at least instruction from a qualified and/or experienced person...just to save the fool from himself. LOL!
 
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