Hantra
Member
- Jun 17, 2016
- 92
- 0
All:
From all the reading I have done in the past, people say Honda paint is generally soft. Tonight, I did a test spot on my White Diamond Pearl Pilot, and I wanted to run through my process to see if it sounds correct, or if my technique may be incorrect. Thank you for any feedback.
I clayed with the Nanoskin fine mitt, and used IronX. Using my 7424 (non-XP), I started off with some Meguiars D102 and a Meguiars black 5" finishing pad. The scratches I have are very slight, and from the dealer. Car is still new, and has been washed with D114, and several soaked MF's or two bucket since I had it.
The D102 didn't seem to do anything for the micro scratches. I switched to a new black pad and M205. It looked better, but still some ghostly scratches. Tried the yellow Meguiars polishing pad and M205. Better, but not enough. Finally, I used the Meguiars red cutting pad, and M205. This seemed to take out all the scratches, and looked great afterward.
Is this typical of "soft" paint? I polished my wife's single stage Taffeta White Honda with 205 and a black pad to perfection. I was surprised to need a cutting pad here.
As far as technique, I primed each pad, like Mike shows in his videos. Then I used 3 pea sized dots on speed 1 to spread. Changed over to speed 5.5 or 6 for three passes with some pressure. Pad didn't stop rotating though. Then I lightened up for three passes to virtually no pressure. My hand speed was fairly slow. . Maybe 1-2 inch per second.
After the polishing, I wiped the spot, and then hit it with D114 and a clean MF.
Do you guys see anything wrong here? If I use a cutting pad, should I then go back with the finishing pad? Or do I need to use the polishing pad as well?
Just want to make sure I'm on the right track here. Planning to coat with WG Uber Ceramic.
Thanks again!
From all the reading I have done in the past, people say Honda paint is generally soft. Tonight, I did a test spot on my White Diamond Pearl Pilot, and I wanted to run through my process to see if it sounds correct, or if my technique may be incorrect. Thank you for any feedback.
I clayed with the Nanoskin fine mitt, and used IronX. Using my 7424 (non-XP), I started off with some Meguiars D102 and a Meguiars black 5" finishing pad. The scratches I have are very slight, and from the dealer. Car is still new, and has been washed with D114, and several soaked MF's or two bucket since I had it.
The D102 didn't seem to do anything for the micro scratches. I switched to a new black pad and M205. It looked better, but still some ghostly scratches. Tried the yellow Meguiars polishing pad and M205. Better, but not enough. Finally, I used the Meguiars red cutting pad, and M205. This seemed to take out all the scratches, and looked great afterward.
Is this typical of "soft" paint? I polished my wife's single stage Taffeta White Honda with 205 and a black pad to perfection. I was surprised to need a cutting pad here.
As far as technique, I primed each pad, like Mike shows in his videos. Then I used 3 pea sized dots on speed 1 to spread. Changed over to speed 5.5 or 6 for three passes with some pressure. Pad didn't stop rotating though. Then I lightened up for three passes to virtually no pressure. My hand speed was fairly slow. . Maybe 1-2 inch per second.
After the polishing, I wiped the spot, and then hit it with D114 and a clean MF.
Do you guys see anything wrong here? If I use a cutting pad, should I then go back with the finishing pad? Or do I need to use the polishing pad as well?
Just want to make sure I'm on the right track here. Planning to coat with WG Uber Ceramic.
Thanks again!
