Feeling stupid, product suggestions?

[emmjay]

I think he meant D156 and not D151. D156 is just plain amazing.

D120 is also good, I just cannot get it here so I have not tried it. But friends of mine have it from when they used to stock it and swear by it.

And m105 and M205 are good. However, if just for your DD then get the ultimate line - so so versatile and long working times and no dusting. I mix them up, I use Ultimate Compound in place of M105 to avoid dust and drying up of product. And M205 in place of UP as it has a little more cut, less oily and finishes down just as good. Best of both worlds.

You will be fine with FG 400 (compound) or Sonax as well - but they are different from Meguiars polishes in that they are Diminishing polishes while Meguiars isn't. In a nutshell Menzerna and Sonax are both great products. Just comes down to whether or not you are okay with the learning curve with Diminishing polishes. I know I am not, as much as I want to learn, I cannot get my self too as Meguiars is just so damn easy.

As for wells, As its a personal car, I used Wolfgang exterior trim sealant on my wheel wells. Luckily they are hard plastic and not the fabric/felt type. I cleaned it with APC 4:1 and then applied the sealant. A lot more pricey but I like it. If I was doing volume I would not mind trying All Season or Hyper Dressing.

 

[srpurdy]

I think he meant D156 and not D151. D156 is just plain amazing.

D120 is also good, I just cannot get it here so I have not tried it. But friends of mine have it from when they used to stock it and swear by it.

And m105 and M205 are good. However, if just for your DD then get the ultimate line - so so versatile and long working times and no dusting. I mix them up, I use Ultimate Compound in place of M105 to avoid dust and drying up of product. And M205 in place of UP as it has a little more cut, less oily and finishes down just as good. Best of both worlds.

You will be fine with FG 400 (compound) or Sonax as well - but they are different from Meguiars polishes in that they are Diminishing polishes while Meguiars isn't. In a nutshell Menzerna and Sonax are both great products. Just comes down to whether or not you are okay with the learning curve with Diminishing polishes. I know I am not, as much as I want to learn, I cannot get my self too as Meguiars is just so damn easy.

As for wells, As its a personal car, I used Wolfgang exterior trim sealant on my wheel wells. Luckily they are hard plastic and not the fabric/felt type. I cleaned it with APC 4:1 and then applied the sealant. A lot more pricey but I like it. If I was doing volume I would not mind trying All Season or Hyper Dressing.

Interesting. VSS I have from CG is a DAT, and I found it just means you do some passes with pressure, and a few with almost no pressure/ in some cases no pressure (just the machine) and the finish is quite nice. I don't have a lot of expierence though, but I was really happy with the results I got with VSS, especially considering I've heard people say they hated VSS LOL. I didn't have any dusting or anything with it either. Came back LSP ready for me. I did do a IPA wipe down anyway after. So I'm not sure maybe, I'll give M205 a try first. 105 seems to be out of stock right now anyway.

Yeah I have UQW which is basically D156. I love this stuff. D156 is really hard to get my hands on though. I'll just have to be patient I guess or order from autogeek and pay the errornous(it breaks my calculator) shipping and duty fees

Thanks for posting

 

[emmjay]

Joe@NextLevelDetail just posted this another thread:

I did a c5 z06 with hard paint, i used a g21 fast correcting cream and within 5 passes I had satisfactory results.

Scholl s3 is a DAT diminishing abrasive, on harder paints I tend to shy away from dat compounds as at the end of the buffing cycle ie: the 4-6th pass the abrasive becomes finer and finer, and with hard paint that's the last thing you want.

That is why everyone recomended using 101 or 100 because it utilizes SMAT abrasives it does not lose its cut and that's what you want buffing hard paint, fast cream is sub micron abrasive technology and how ever long you work it , it is going to continue to cut and remove defects. 101 or 100 will dry up on you within the 3-5th pass depending on temp, what makes fast cream unique is that you can work it however long you want it and still continues to cut.

Another thing is I know you recently made a thread falling back in love with the 3401.... we all know how the flex performs with microfiber. Understand that even though it has forced rotation it is still a 8mm throw, compare that to 21mm that is almost 3x the size. So that means you are covering 3x more of the surface area and are moving that abrasive 3x more providing excellent cutting and finishing ability.

I can out polish my 3401 on a open panel with any 21mm or 15mm tool. I use the forced rotation where the long throws lack. The 3401s game is curves and counters the long throws game is open panels and beats the 3401 hands down in that category.

3401 is Shaquille O'Neal in the paint (tight areas and contours)

Longthrows are miachel Jordan on a open court fast break. Athletic and fast.

Another reason why I have not tried DAT - as much as I want to. I love the fact that my current polishes just continue working and working - especially on hard paint. For example the Audi I just did.

 

[emmjay]

Interesting. VSS I have from CG is a DAT, and I found it just means you do some passes with pressure, and a few with almost no pressure/ in some cases no pressure (just the machine) and the finish is quite nice. I don't have a lot of expierence though, but I was really happy with the results I got with VSS, especially considering I've heard people say they hated VSS LOL. I didn't have any dusting or anything with it either. Came back LSP ready for me. I did do a IPA wipe down anyway after. So I'm not sure maybe, I'll give M205 a try first. 105 seems to be out of stock right now anyway.

Yeah I have UQW which is basically D156. I love this stuff. D156 is really hard to get my hands on though. I'll just have to be patient I guess or order from autogeek and pay the errornous(it breaks my calculator) shipping and duty fees

Thanks for posting

M205 is a finishing polish though. However, its versatile as its pad and paint dependent. I did M205 with a black finishing pad on my car and it came out perfect due to soft paint.

I have even tried it with a White pad and a orange cutting pad and it worked, but the orange pad left a little haze, but removed the heavy defects really nice. However, I always keep UC on hand just incase and use my m205 to finish down.

However, hard paint is a different story

M105 rarely finishes down LSP ready. UC however does, check my audi thread. UC and a Orange cutting pad - long working time, no dust and LSP ready.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...llic-one-step-correction-collinite-845-a.html

Honda Pilot (soft paint) - but UC and White polishing pad gave me amazing results:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...full-detail-pbl-v2-coating-%96-pic-heavy.html

 

[Eldorado2k]

M105 rarely finishes down LSP ready. UC however does, check my audi thread. UC and a Orange cutting pad - long working time, no dust and LSP ready.

Sounds like the repeated viewing of that Meguiars Asia vid has finally paid off... You sound like a true Ultimate Compound Boss now. Very nice! Lol.

 

[emmjay]

Sounds like the repeated viewing of that Meguiars Asia vid has finally paid off... You sound like a true Ultimate Compound Boss now. Very nice! Lol.

LMAO! Nah man, I actually really like the product. It worked really really well for 2 cars I did last week.

Next step is to try it in direct sunlight on black paint in 100 degree weather to get the awesome results the Megs Asia guy got. :buffing: Will dry out in seconds lol.

 

[srpurdy]

M205 is a finishing polish though. However, its versatile as its pad and paint dependent. I did M205 with a black finishing pad on my car and it came out perfect due to soft paint.

I have even tried it with a White pad and a orange cutting pad and it worked, but the orange pad left a little haze, but removed the heavy defects really nice. However, I always keep UC on hand just incase and use my m205 to finish down.

However, hard paint is a different story

M105 rarely finishes down LSP ready. UC however does, check my audi thread. UC and a Orange cutting pad - long working time, no dust and LSP ready.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...llic-one-step-correction-collinite-845-a.html

Honda Pilot (soft paint) - but UC and White polishing pad gave me amazing results:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...full-detail-pbl-v2-coating-%96-pic-heavy.html

Nice job on the Audi, its nice when you get a white car to actually look white lol. 845 looks nice on it too. Did my brothers white G5 the otherday. Although I didn't do any polishing. I can get UC in local stores. So maybe I'll pick some up. Doesn't hurt to have some on hand. So I think atleast for my car. I would probably use a white pad, as orange would be too aggressive on my Japanese paint. My paint is pretty soft, plus it's black so yeah lol.

Edit: That Honda was pretty trashed too. lol I just looked. Nice job!


Thanks for all the input. It's greatly appreicated.

 

[emmjay]

Nice job on the Audi, its nice when you get a white car to actually look white lol. 845 looks nice on it too. Did my brothers white G5 the otherday. Although I didn't do any polishing. I can get UC in local stores. So maybe I'll pick some up. Doesn't hurt to have some on hand. So I think atleast for my car. I would probably use a white pad, as orange would be too aggressive on my Japanese paint. My paint is pretty soft, plus it's black so yeah lol.

Edit: That Honda was pretty trashed too. lol I just looked. Nice job!


Thanks for all the input. It's greatly appreicated.

Thanks man. And Anytime!

That Honda was a resurrection lol!

 

[ducksfan]

Yeah, hold the sponge. I don't know if they changed the process or simply qt issue, but the second one I had looks different than when it first hit the market. It simply did not do the job. Wasted money. I feel cheated.

Grab BSD. You will like it. Since you already have V7, mix the two in equal parts or 1/4 V7 with 3/4 BSD for the best of both worlds; looks, crazy beading & ease of application should you find straight BSD grabby.

Also, try the orange gloves if you haven't already. These ones and the Kimberly-Clark purples are the best of all the ones I tried.

This is for those of you who missed (or just blew over) this.

I have used these and the black nitrile gloves. These are noticeably better. You can actually reuse these a few times. Just get the biggest size and use hand lotion.

It's too easy to forgo using gloves for short jobs (I would too often skip putting on the black nitriles for a <1 minute job. Too wasteful?). These have stopped that.

These make it easier to comply with the 'If it's on you, it's in you' protection plan.

Orange Heavy Duty Nitrile Gloves

 

[dlc95]

Joe@NextLevelDetail just posted this another thread:



Another reason why I have not tried DAT - as much as I want to. I love the fact that my current polishes just continue working and working - especially on hard paint. For example the Audi I just did.

The only thing to consider there is residue build up. The paint particle we remove is often larger than the abrasive. A build up of this residue can kill cut quickly.

Then, there are those liquids said to contain both types of abrasives, like Menzerna FG400, and Rupes Zephir.

 

[emmjay]

The only thing to consider there is residue build up. The paint particle we remove is often larger than the abrasive. A build up of this residue can kill cut quickly.

Then, there are those liquids said to contain both types of abrasives, like Menzerna FG400, and Rupes Zephir.

Man, I have so much to learn. Excuse my daft and biased replies sometimes. Will never know till I try it ...

P.S. Tell me about residue buildup cutting...cut...lol. That Audi was horrible for that. Each panel got 2 pads yeesh

 

[emmjay]

This is for those of you who missed (or just blew over) this.

I have used these and the black nitrile gloves. These are noticeably better. You can actually reuse these a few times. Just get the biggest size and use hand lotion.

It's too easy to forgo using gloves for short jobs (I would too often skip putting on the black nitriles for a <1 minute job. Too wasteful?). These have stopped that.

These make it easier to comply with the 'If it's on you, it's in you' protection plan.

Orange Heavy Duty Nitrile Gloves

What is the benefit of Nitrile over Latex? I had never heard the term until I saw a video featuring Mike Philips, and from then on, I hear it all the time.

I just use latex gloves when I am doing anything car related thats horrible, like APC with tyres or exhausts and more recently coatings. I felt its better than Vinyl.

On another note, I have never even seen Nitrile gloves at the store where I live.

 

[dlc95]

Man, I have so much to learn. Excuse my daft and biased replies sometimes. Will never know till I try it ...

P.S. Tell me about residue buildup cutting...cut...lol. That Audi was horrible for that. Each panel got 2 pads yeesh

Oh no, in many ways I agree with you! I love the Meguiar's line of products, and use them more than anything else.

When we compound paint, we're shaving layers off of the top surface. As we proceed through the buffing cycle, the abraded paint builds up in the face of the pad, along with the used abrasives, and spent carrier liquid.

This is why I graze a pad brush over my foam, and microfiber pads after every section. I also use a terry cloth towel after every four sections on my foam pads, and a microfiber towel on my microfiber pads (I don't want to introduce terry cloth fibers to my microfiber pads, for concerns with binding the micro fibers) after every cycle.

 

[Eldorado2k]

What is the benefit of Nitrile over Latex? I had never heard the term until I saw a video featuring Mike Philips, and from then on, I hear it all the time.

The term you heard Mike Phillips say was "Keep it simple Simon".

Keeping it simple for this 1 is: Latex on a date, and Nitrile for detailing. Lol.

 

[srpurdy]

The term you heard Mike Phillips say was "Keep it simple Simon".

Keeping it simple for this 1 is: Latex on a date, and Nitrile for detailing. Lol.

LOL, some people are actually alergic to Latex, because they worked as a doctor or nurse... Thats partly why some people use Nitrile. I think the material is much stronger too. I can make a pair of nitrile last quite awhile. Most of the time I replace them just because they have a lot of chemicals on them. I don't want to be sticking my hand into car soap with gloves that have iron-x on them for example lol.I know I can wash them under water, but it's a mental thing for me. Some Latex gloves are also not chemical resistent, so make sure they actually arw. Otherwise you could be just wearing them for no real benefit. Generally though I think people use these over latex mostly because of how durable they are.

@ducksfan I did see your post. I'll consider trying them when I run out of my box of 100 I have now haha. I got heavy duty mechanics ones. Pretty durable. Mine are black. I don't know if your orange ones will be better than what I have or not, but I'll need to buy more eventually.

I am trhinking of picking up a gallon of ONR too, what do you guys think yeah? or nah? At least I could market for washing cars in appartment complexes. Right now I have no way to do cars like this. Ecosmart is really not good enough for any serious dirt on the paint work. Just takes way too many towels.. It actually has become my door jam, and a good exterior window cleaner. Good thing to soak some bugs in also actually. I think ONR looks like a much better product. Id like a product that could at least be used in the winter without freezing my ass off.

 

[BrutalNoodle]

It's too easy to forgo using gloves for short jobs (I would too often skip putting on the black nitriles for a <1 minute job. Too wasteful?). These have stopped that.

I always wear gloves, especially when dealing with glass/window.

Every time I see a vid of someone demonstrating some glass product, my eyes would automatically focus on the hands; checking to see if the person wears a pair. If not, I would say to myself - But...the oil from your hand...

 

[emmjay]

I am trhinking of picking up a gallon of ONR too, what do you guys think yeah? or nah? At least I could market for washing cars in appartment complexes. Right now I have no way to do cars like this. Ecosmart is really not good enough for any serious dirt on the paint work. Just takes way too many towels.. It actually has become my door jam, and a good exterior window cleaner. Good thing to soak some bugs in also actually. I think ONR looks like a much better product. Id like a product that could at least be used in the winter without freezing my ass off.

I love ONR, SO many uses and a really nice rinseless wash. I got UBER to try out, but based on price alone, I will not get it again.

A gallon of ONR for the price of a tiny bottle of Uber. Yes UBER is more slick, but so is my wallet when the money just flies out of its leather crusted Innards to pay for Uber.

However, I must say...Uber is pretty damn good - ignoring price - it outperforms ONR.

 

[emmjay]

Oh no, in many ways I agree with you! I love the Meguiar's line of products, and use them more than anything else.

When we compound paint, we're shaving layers off of the top surface. As we proceed through the buffing cycle, the abraded paint builds up in the face of the pad, along with the used abrasives, and spent carrier liquid.

This is why I graze a pad brush over my foam, and microfiber pads after every section. I also use a terry cloth towel after every four sections on my foam pads, and a microfiber towel on my microfiber pads (I don't want to introduce terry cloth fibers to my microfiber pads, for concerns with binding the micro fibers) after every cycle.

I clean my pads as I go too. I have a flex so its my adaptation of cleaning on the fly. I take a stiff terry towel, like gym towels. I grab one edge and roll into a ball. I then hold this ball in between my thumb and first two fingers tight. I then rest it on my pad centre with a wee bit of pressure and trigger my polisher for a few seconds. This towel grazes on the pad and picks up what it can, and I know it works as my towel is white - its a cream colour after a few seconds. I do this after every two section passes (half a door). I have not found any other way to clean on the fly with the Flex.

The term you heard Mike Phillips say was "Keep it simple Simon".

Keeping it simple for this 1 is: Latex on a date, and Nitrile for detailing. Lol.

LOL, U always crack me up! Thank you sir.