My 1st SEMA car and it has a terrible paint job! :(

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I'm working on a new Camaro that PowerNation TV built,. It goes to SEMA and is then being given away in a contest. Please...pray for me lol








 
Was it painted via rattle can? WTH. Prayers incoming. That appears that paint need to be taken down to the metal and totally re sprayed.
 
Hopefully they won't release who painted the car because he will not be getting any work. However you might be getting plenty of business by fixing such a bs excuse for a paint job. Who the hell thought this was acceptable for a sema car lol
 
I saw that episode. I know nothing about painting a car and I was shaking my head. :doh:
 
Oh Jesus. Wetsand job.
But it'll be hard, with all the stripes.
I wish you all the luck.
 
I'm speechless. Whoever wins that car will have to put $7k - $10K into to make it right.

It looks to be a 2016 Camaro, and for the life of me, I'm trying to figure out why anyone would destroy new OEM GM paint by repraying it?
New OEM GM paint is almost perfect, I've worked on two brand new GM's recently and aside from a few, random swirls, it was flawless.
That's really sad, I hope you can do something with it, but from the looks of it, it needs a lot of help.
 
Even by my standards that's a lot of work.Those runs are horrific.Is the whole car car like that?If so get some Mirka disk 1000 1500 2000.That run will have to be block sanded and it's right on the body line.Goodluck my friend and take your time.
 
I have a gauge and never use it.I hope you have one or can get one for that car.
 
Forget the clear coat, if you have to; the orange peel has to come out. It will be good experience for you.
 
Glad I didn't enter! Good luck! That's a lot of work if you can correct the problems! My only advice is don't get caught up with the sema thing. If in doubt don't try to fix it. Do the best you can,and explain you can't fix crap paint!
Good luck and let us know what happens.
 
Glad I didn't enter! Good luck! That's a lot of work if you can correct the problems! My only advice is don't get caught up with the sema thing. If in doubt don't try to fix it. Do the best you can,and explain you can't fix crap paint!
Good luck and let us know what happens.

exactly what he said ^^
 
My advice is don't look for perfection because odds are you'll sand through it. As others have said it's horrific. I use to paint quite a bit and never let a run go unaddressed. If it were me I'd either get my price or I'd move on. Best you're going to do is make it look better from 15' by knocking down the peaks of the orange peel. I bet the clear is thin because the base is thick. Somebody said it should be re-sprayed and I agree. Never been to SEMA but can't believe anything like that would be allowed inside the building.
 
Don't walk, run away from that job. Or get an IRON clad release of any responsibilty signed.
 
Was it painted via rattle can? WTH. Prayers incoming. That appears that paint need to be taken down to the metal and totally re sprayed.

Hopefully they won't release who painted the car because he will not be getting any work. However you might be getting plenty of business by fixing such a bs excuse for a paint job. Who the hell thought this was acceptable for a sema car lol

Man do you ever have your work cut out for you. Good luck man!

Do you have a PTG? How thick are the readings?

I saw that episode. I know nothing about painting a car and I was shaking my head. :doh:

Oh Jesus. Wetsand job.
But it'll be hard, with all the stripes.
I wish you all the luck.

I'm speechless. Whoever wins that car will have to put $7k - $10K into to make it right.

It looks to be a 2016 Camaro, and for the life of me, I'm trying to figure out why anyone would destroy new OEM GM paint by repraying it?
New OEM GM paint is almost perfect, I've worked on two brand new GM's recently and aside from a few, random swirls, it was flawless.
That's really sad, I hope you can do something with it, but from the looks of it, it needs a lot of help.

Even by my standards that's a lot of work.Those runs are horrific.Is the whole car car like that?If so get some Mirka disk 1000 1500 2000.That run will have to be block sanded and it's right on the body line.Goodluck my friend and take your time.

I have a gauge and never use it.I hope you have one or can get one for that car.

Forget the clear coat, if you have to; the orange peel has to come out. It will be good experience for you.

Glad I didn't enter! Good luck! That's a lot of work if you can correct the problems! My only advice is don't get caught up with the sema thing. If in doubt don't try to fix it. Do the best you can,and explain you can't fix crap paint!
Good luck and let us know what happens.

My advice is don't look for perfection because odds are you'll sand through it. As others have said it's horrific. I use to paint quite a bit and never let a run go unaddressed. If it were me I'd either get my price or I'd move on. Best you're going to do is make it look better from 15' by knocking down the peaks of the orange peel. I bet the clear is thin because the base is thick. Somebody said it should be re-sprayed and I agree. Never been to SEMA but can't believe anything like that would be allowed inside the building.

Don't walk, run away from that job. Or get an IRON clad release of any responsibilty signed.


I am going balls out on this one! Currently being block sanded with 800 and taking it to 3,000. Paint readings are between 16-20 mil through the car..4 coats of clear on it. I've almost got the whole car done with 800, all the runs are out. Looking promising and to the average person they will be happy (especially since they are winning it). Only issue I'm seeing is a lot of movement in the paint, which I'm thinking is in the factory body work. I will be sure to post many pictures when I am done with it.
 
I am going balls out on this one! Currently being block sanded with 800 and taking it to 3,000. Paint readings are between 16-20 mil through the car..4 coats of clear on it. I've almost got the whole car done with 800, all the runs are out. Looking promising and to the average person they will be happy (especially since they are winning it). Only issue I'm seeing is a lot of movement in the paint, which I'm thinking is in the factory body work. I will be sure to post many pictures when I am done with it.
That's good to hear facing a challenge.Did you level that door run?
 
Wow, 800 grit!
Courageous approach, but it seems right, since there is four layers of cc, plenty of material to work with.
Since you are neck deep in this project, I would humbly suggest a light 5000 pass after the 3000, just to be sure, after all it will be a SEMA car.
Measure it after every step, to monitor the cc wearing.
Please, share your results, we are eager to see it.
Good luck and best regards.
 
Couple humble suggestions:
Since you block sanded, instead of air powered da sanded, the first step will be a bit irregular.
I suppose you'll go 1200 or 1500 grit after that, and this step will be crucial, to level off the 800 grit marks. You have to remember that anything below 1200 grit is way over the correctness hability of the majority of polishing compounds, which is usually 1200 grit, or you'll end up with RIDS after the final stage, almost impossible to remove.
If I were you, after the first step, I would wash it and do a thoroughly inpection, even with the help of a magnifying glass, to assert problematic areas. I would also decon, and put it in the sun.
An air powered da sander would be needed as well for the second step, for a better finishing.
This car you'll have to walk the extra mile, it is a SEMA car, there is no better advertisement than that.
Even if your name won't be there, people will end up knowing who did it.
I'm cheering for you, best regards
 
That's good to hear facing a challenge.Did you level that door run?

Yes it came out nicely

Couple humble suggestions:
Since you block sanded, instead of air powered da sanded, the first step will be a bit irregular.
I suppose you'll go 1200 or 1500 grit after that, and this step will be crucial, to level off the 800 grit marks. You have to remember that anything below 1200 grit is way over the correctness hability of the majority of polishing compounds, which is usually 1200 grit, or you'll end up with RIDS after the final stage, almost impossible to remove.
If I were you, after the first step, I would wash it and do a thoroughly inpection, even with the help of a magnifying glass, to assert problematic areas. I would also decon, and put it in the sun.
An air powered da sander would be needed as well for the second step, for a better finishing.
This car you'll have to walk the extra mile, it is a SEMA car, there is no better advertisement than that.
Even if your name won't be there, people will end up knowing who did it.
I'm cheering for you, best regards

Thanks for the tips! These jobs make me create new cuss words but at the end of the day I love it! Getting great results out of this one
 
this vehicle is involved in a giveaway from a well known company.

I can't watch that program the same way ever again.

Hacks
 
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