Coating Question for Detailers

Are you in fla? 200 dollar paint correction is not a correction but rather a one step polishing which tells me the car is relatively in good shape.1200 is way to much.I can do that car in one day providing its in good shape for way way less than quoted and with finest and I will coat the car wheels tail light and door jambs.Thats a 750.00 dollar job in one day again if the car just needs a polish no major swirls or deep rids or heavey contamination.If your in fla pm me.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Again, I will recommend you contact Corey at CarPro US for the absolute best, most informative answer... this will remove all bias from the answer as he is not trying to sell you a product like your detailer may or may not be, and it will take all guess work out of the answer since he is the only distributor of Finest in the US and is of course an expert on all CQuartz products, so while many AGO members may have read things, most of them have no experience comparing CQ, CQUK, and CQ Finest like Corey has.
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How do I contact him? Is he a member of the forum?
 
GSKR said:
Are you in fla? 200 dollar paint correction is not a correction but rather a one step polishing which tells me the car is relatively in good shape.1200 is way to much.I can do that car in one day providing its in good shape for way way less than quoted and with finest and I will coat the car wheels tail light and door jambs.Thats a 750.00 dollar job in one day again if the car just needs a polish no major swirls or deep rids or heavey contamination.If your in fla pm me.
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Im in Jersey... yes the paint is in good shape, really minor swirls. And you are correct, the $200 is for a 1 step polish
 
I think I found a difference between UK and Finest.


But before going into that I did some research for the SiO2 and TiO2 and found the following:

SiO2 (Facts About Sio2 Liquid Glass Coatings) - Used for its hardness and UV protection.

TiO2 (http://www.icis.com/resources/news/2007/11/07/9076546/titanium-dioxide-tio2-uses-and-market-data/) - Used for its high reflective properties, thus, better UV protection.


Moving to CQUK

According to (https://carpro.uk.com/products/cquartz-uk-edition-30ml-kit-w-reload) it has 70% of SiO2 (suppose to be the coating with highest content of SiO2 on the market, so I don't get it when you say that Finest has a greater content of silica) Also, it say thickness is 1-2.5microns. So why does the thickness varies? Does it depends on how many layers you add?


Moving to CQFinest

According to their website the thickness ranges from 2-3microns. So, does having a thicker coat means better protection? And according to the frequently ask questions (FAQ - CQUARTZ Finest) the difference between CQ and Finest is:

"The short answer is just about everything. There are many differences between CQuartz and CQ Finest. While both are glass coatings Finest offers greater gloss, dust and dirt resistance, fine swirl resistance, a slick to the touch feel, more resistance to water spots and the environment, and FINEST is offered only through Authorized Installers who have developed their skills and take the utmost pride in their work."

The problem that I see here is "UK". It is talking about CQuartz (Im assuming CQ Classic and not CQUK). So, is there's really a difference between UK and Finest?

After researching a bit more I found a research between SiO2 and SiO2 w/TiO2 (https://www.researchgate.net/public...Synthesis_and_variable_UV-blocking_properties) and it seems that the difference is better UV protection with SiO2/TiO2.

Since Finest is part SiO2 and TiO2, is it really worth the high cost for "extra" UV protection? Cause you can really proof what they claim that the difference between CQ and Finest is basically everything.
 
Depending where in jersey you reside detailers domain in Norwood jersey deos exceptional work.Give them a call.The downside is that you will probably pay a lot but they are knowledgeable about there craft.
 
At the end of the day no matter what coating you decide it could be the thickest most durable long lasting coating on the planet as of now there are two things that are imperative.The first is polish and prep than the aftercare is the most important.Nothing last forever so if if you are dead set on a coating and not religiously taking care of the car weekly or bi weekly then all that money will go to waste.Color plays a big factor as well.you would be amazed what a simple coat of 845 or 915 and 476 can do as far as durability wise every 3 months for 14.99.
 
Can coat by gyeon is a outstanding product that will give you 6 months protection no promblem.use the wetcoat on the wheels.pay the 200.00 for the polish in the spring and do it yourself.
 
I'm a detailer I would never pay 1300 to have my car clean and coated,because as they say nobody will do or put as much pride in there work as you.
 
GSKR said:
I'm a detailer I would never pay 1300 to have my car clean and coated...
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Just like a plumber would never pay to fix a leak, and an electrician would never pay to install a new electrical outlet, etc.

Not everyone wants to learn how to DIY to save money. That is the reason there are so many businesses that provide services to others.

If the OP wants to pay a professional to do the work for him, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.
 
Finest once applied correctly adds 3 pum thickness.just compare it to others.
 
Well - I would think the best contact would be Corey would be best poised to completely answer the question....

But - from my understanding Finest is is supposed to provide the most shine and depth, while being the most difficult to apply - CQuartz is the balance between shine/protection and easier application and UK is actually designed for markets where cure time is in colder temperatures - so it's similar in shine/protection as standard CQuartz but slightly different application.

Now take all that with a grain of salt - as I'm no expert and have no actual real world application experience - just compiled my own facts as I was planning to use one of them (I did purchase CQ UK to go on my cars for winter but it never got applied).....
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Just like a plumber would never pay to fix a leak, and an electrician would never pay to install a new electrical outlet, etc.

Not everyone wants to learn how to DIY to save money. That is the reason there are so many businesses that provide services to others.

If the OP wants to pay a professional to do the work for him, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.
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Agree... I used to do all my detailing but without a garage that's just too much trouble

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Guys to questions

The topper are those available to the public or only authorized installers?

I was recommended PPF and quoted 5k and 7k for doing all the car. Why would anyone pay so much for something that needs replacement every 5 or 10 years? For that kind of money I can paint the car and get a "brand new car" back. I just don't get it

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Depends on the car...exotics and value = repaint not good....

I'm not a fan of PPF.....it just soaks up stuff. It's $$$ for a installer, but IMO, remove film that is 3-4 years old and compare it to new....and then advise how ~clear~ the old film is.

Toppers are generally sealant sprays Alex....as coatings are not slick to touch, and oftentimes, toppers do add a bit of slickness to the paint. That's not to say, coatings don't work even though they ain't slick to touch. We're just so ingrained to feeling ~slick~
 
marchese_alexander said:
Guys to questions

The topper are those available to the public or only authorized installers?

I was recommended PPF and quoted 5k and 7k for doing all the car. Why would anyone pay so much for something that needs replacement every 5 or 10 years? For that kind of money I can paint the car and get a "brand new car" back. I just don't get it

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You have the easiest color to touch up.Depending on the miles driven per week will dictate if you need the film.As a prior Lexus owner Toyota paint chips real easy on sheet metal.If anything film the lower rake of the hood on that model car.mirror covers and bumper will touch up and match pretty close being white.just saying if you want to save some cash.
 
Wrapping the whole car is senseless.If you get into a accident more than likely you won't be compensated for that because it falls under custom.washing and maintenance is crucial and overtime marring can occur there is no fixing that other than replacing.I see and hear more people taking that off.If it's Suntek after 4 years it ain't coming off.Besides all the razor cuts and bubbles and imperfections do your homework on a installer that solely does this day in and day out.
 
One of them was recommending doing just the front (hood bumper etc) but I don't see it being worth around $1500 and doing it again in 5 years... when times come to replace it I would already have had the money for painting the whole car (or close to it)

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Not only that in 5 years they will charge you extra to remove the old film.Personally I would just do the lower portion of the hood.on that car the lower hood will take a beating,no so much on the bumper cause it's plastic.1500 seems a bit high but your in jersey everything is expensive there.
 
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