Coating Question for Detailers

marchese_alexander said:
Between CQUK and Finest, can anyone tell me the difference? Why Finest is more expensive? I know Finest is part Silica and Titanium but what does that means, how does that translates to paint protection?

There's seems to be no clear answer, at least, I haven't found one. Nor any detailer I have spoken to have had a real answer. They simply say, is part x and part y, a completely different product. Yeah, but that does tell me anything. Is like they memorized a response to a question.

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There is no easy way to answer this question. All of CarPro's ceramic coatings offer amazing protection and value. IMO CQuartz Finest offers the best gloss. There is no other product I've used that adds so much depth and shine to the paint (after full paint correction and final polishing). The difference after the Finest layers are installed/cured is simply unreal. I believe most of this is due to the additional gloss enhancing ingredients in Finest (which is a completely different formulation compared to CQ or UK) as well as the fact that you are literally adding depth to the paintwork with each layer of the coating you apply. The standard Finest service, no matter where you go, calls for at least 2 layers around the entire car. I've done up to 7 layers just to see what it looked like. After about 4 layers of Finest the surface is so glossy it looks like an HDR photograph in real life.

If you are mainly concerned with protection you can save a little bit of money just going with standard CQuartz or CQ UK. Both of these are great coatings and can also be layered just like Finest. One option that is gaining popularity is a base layer of UK (which has the highest Si02 content) topped with CQuartz (for better gloss).
 
marchese_alexander said:
One of them was recommending doing just the front (hood bumper etc) but I don't see it being worth around $1500 and doing it again in 5 years... when times come to replace it I would already have had the money for painting the whole car (or close to it)

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Seem like the majority of the cars I do lately have the full front wrapped in PPF. $1500 is pretty good, actually on the low end in my area as most are around $1800-2000. IMO the life of the PPF really comes down to care and what elements it's subject too, and a quality film of course. My co-worker has had PPF on his G37 for over 6 years now and it still looks great. He takes pretty good care of the car though, it's garaged, and I applied OCP to it when it was new too. I tend to agree with you on the repainting in 5+ years but keep in mind that a repaint will come with its share of drawbacks too, espcailly if you don't do your homework finding a reputable shop. IMO, if you do a lot of highway driving and plan to keep the car for a long time PPF is a pretty good investment, especially with all the self-healing films out now. Insurance companies pay for coating reapplication in the event of an accident and they would pay for the PPF as well.

For me, PPF wasn't worth it. I work 4 miles from home and the roads I take are 30-45 mph zones, plus I tend to lease my vehicles. I have 26k miles on my truck now and it still looks very good with only 1 noticeable rock chip. My wife's car on the other hand was trashed after a few years of highway driving and her new car is going in for a full front wrap next week...maybe even the whole car minus the roof since it's all glass.
 
Hi guys,

I got a new set of wheels and to coat them is going to cost me $200- $250 but I was considering doing it myself since I have them on my apartment. What product is used to coat the wheels?

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marchese_alexander said:
Hi guys,

I got a new set of wheels and to coat them is going to cost me $200- $250 but I was considering doing it myself since I have them on my apartment. What product is used to coat the wheels?

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There are MANY threads on this forum regarding wheel coatings... have a look around and see what interests you.
 
The dirt, the grime, the muck the wheels sees are pretty viscious. Daily driver ? Do you drive in the rain. See snow, salt, etc ?
One of our cars has finest and the latter 2 have CQUK. I don't even bother with coating them.

Get them clean, then Hydr02 them. It's so easy and quick.
Wheels, in general get pretty clean with a pressure washer....soap is just needed to remove the film.
Every 3-4 months, I just Decontaminate the wheels, clean them up, and Hydr02 them again. Rinse and repeat.
 
Is it better to seal rather than coat the wheels? I'm having second thoughts about coating them... how feasible is to remove the coating later given the tight spaces on a wheel? How can you polish that?

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Guys I was told to check coating the underside of the car (rustproofing). If I simply use a pressure washer to hose the underside of the car will that do the trick? (To remove the salt)

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Pressure washer will blast off salt.use about 12 to 1500 psi pressure.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Seem like the majority of the cars I do lately have the full front wrapped in PPF. $1500 is pretty good, actually on the low end in my area as most are around $1800-2000. IMO the life of the PPF really comes down to care and what elements it's subject too, and a quality film of course. My co-worker has had PPF on his G37 for over 6 years now and it still looks great. He takes pretty good care of the car though, it's garaged, and I applied OCP to it when it was new too. I tend to agree with you on the repainting in 5+ years but keep in mind that a repaint will come with its share of drawbacks too, espcailly if you don't do your homework finding a reputable shop. IMO, if you do a lot of highway driving and plan to keep the car for a long time PPF is a pretty good investment, especially with all the self-healing films out now. Insurance companies pay for coating reapplication in the event of an accident and they would pay for the PPF as well.

For me, PPF wasn't worth it. I work 4 miles from home and the roads I take are 30-45 mph zones, plus I tend to lease my vehicles. I have 26k miles on my truck now and it still looks very good with only 1 noticeable rock chip. My wife's car on the other hand was trashed after a few years of highway driving and her new car is going in for a full front wrap next week...maybe even the whole car minus the roof since it's all glass.
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Insurance companies will pay for all the above with a fight from the causing careless driver that the insured was covering.In many cases your insurance will not pay for that and custom equipment unless it's stated on the policy as custom items such as wheels clear bra and aftermarket Highend stereo equipment.They will only replace with oem equipment unless it's added to policy.And if your car is totaled All custom equipment is there's you cannot go and take your amplified amps in the trunk or your un damaged rims.must be on policy as custom with receipts.This is not speculation but a fact.
 
GSKR said:
Insurance companies will pay for all the above with a fight from the causing careless driver that the insured was covering.In many cases your insurance will not pay for that and custom equipment unless it's stated on the policy as custom items such as wheels clear bra and aftermarket Highend stereo equipment.They will only replace with oem equipment unless it's added to policy.And if your car is totaled All custom equipment is there's you cannot go and take your amplified amps in the trunk or your un damaged rims.must be on policy as custom with receipts.This is not speculation but a fact.
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But your premium will go up once you add the custom mods

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One of the reasons we don't see durability on vehicles farther than say 3-4 years, is because most of these companies are just now getting to America. They have been used in Asia for a lot longer and most have been put thru accelerated testing to gain a range of durability. Same thing is done with house paint.

This is why you see a claim of 2-5 or more years on some coatings, because depending on condition, they can last different lengths.
As stated previously in other post, maintenance of these coatings is key for longevity.

HUMP
 
GSKR said:
Insurance companies will pay for all the above with a fight from the causing careless driver that the insured was covering.In many cases your insurance will not pay for that and custom equipment unless it's stated on the policy as custom items such as wheels clear bra and aftermarket Highend stereo equipment.They will only replace with oem equipment unless it's added to policy.And if your car is totaled All custom equipment is there's you cannot go and take your amplified amps in the trunk or your un damaged rims.must be on policy as custom with receipts.This is not speculation but a fact.
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Technically speaking, yes, you're correct, owners should add it to their policy to ensure coverage.

That being said I've not had a single issue (nor have my clients) getting paid by insurance companies for multiple coatings jobs now that had to be redone after a collision. With the coatings all they required was to show receipt from when the work was done. My father also runs a body shop and deals with insurance companies all the time and he said it's rare they deny it, even if it wasn't added to the policy, but he did say they can if it's not OEM equipment. I think up until the last couple years owners mostly just did the front 18-24" and the cost was far, far less. Going forward they may start cracking down on it givn the cost of the larger wrap jobs. If someone is just getting the front edge of the hood and fenders done I probably wouldn't bother, but for a full front wrap and especially a the whole car, I would definitely suggest adding it to the policy. :cheers:
 
marchese_alexander said:
When it looses the hydrophobic property it needs to be removed

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This is not the case. When hydrophobic properties are lost, you can apply a coating topper (ie CarPro Reload) to enhance water beading, or you can just clean the surface and reapply a new coating. Simply wash, decontaminate, polish, and recoat. Same goes with paint coatings.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
This is not the case. When hydrophobic properties are lost, you can apply a coating topper (ie CarPro Reload) to enhance water beading, or you can just clean the surface and reapply a new coating. Simply wash, decontaminate, polish, and recoat. Same goes with paint coatings.
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So base on this info, you never have to recoat the car? just apply reload and your set? So the question is why recoat then? if I can indefinitely keep the hydrophobic property by applying reload.
 
yesterday I was washing the car and I noticed that it has a lot of rail dust (the yellow rust dots)... Will the ceramic coating prevent rail dust? I'm not sure if is worth paying 1000+ just to have the car cover in rail dust after a while. Is it safe to remove the rail dust by using a clay or a product like Iron X (after applying the coating)?
 
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