Reason I won't use a coating again

Jeremy1976 said:
The particles that come off of your brakes are indeed very hot. Its mainly on the wheel wells (quarter panel) areas. Along with rocker panels and back bumper.

I am very confident that the contrast in temperature from the brake particles versus the painted panels is allowing these particles to easily bond. I never see this in the warm month's. 2 weeks into winter and cold temps, snow, road salt, and its there. I am meticulous with my vehicles and paint was 100%.
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You ever hear those snow plows and graders going down the road... blades scraping on the pavement, block after block, mile after mile. I'm always thinking about the number of iron particles left behind. Millions and millions of them-- combined with some melt water and the chemicals they use-- splashed up on the rockers and then drying in the sun or in the garage. We know how much "grit" adheres- we see it. And then we re-wet it next time out. And it often dries again. It's a pretty noxious mix. I would lean toward this being the majority of the cause of adhering iron particles, but hard to know for sure. Dry panels in the summer time (and no "fresh iron" source) would certainly be less prone to particle adhesion.
 
Garry Dean Infinite Force Field kit

^^ I missed this as honestly I thought it was a joke. Not picking on the product as I know nothing about it, but the name.......meh....perhaps good but I think it's a bit cheesy.
 
In addition to iron particles, coatings get swirled, bird-bombed, tarred, sapped. Coatings restrict how often and how aggressively you can correct, so I don't think they are for people who want their finishes looking perfect all the time. The OP seems meticulous about his finish, so not sure coatings and the OP are a good match.
 
pdqgp said:
Garry Dean Infinite Force Field kit

^^ I missed this as honestly I thought it was a joke. Not picking on the product as I know nothing about it, but the name.......meh....perhaps good but I think it's a bit cheesy.
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Wolfgang Uber sounds far cheesier.. No? Lol. Doesn't mean it's not good stuff.


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Harpolith said:
You ever hear those snow plows and graders going down the road... blades scraping on the pavement, block after block, mile after mile. I'm always thinking about the number of iron particles left behind. Millions and millions of them-- combined with some melt water and the chemicals they use-- splashed up on the rockers and then drying in the sun or in the garage. We know how much "grit" adheres- we see it. And then we re-wet it next time out. And it often dries again. It's a pretty noxious mix. I would lean toward this being the majority of the cause of adhering iron particles, but hard to know for sure. Dry panels in the summer time (and no "fresh iron" source) would certainly be less prone to particle adhesion.
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Never thought of that but you're right. Thanks for your input!
 
RaskyR1 said:
Have you been able to measure a change in thickness after a coating is applied? I applied a coating to a calibration shim back in the day and it didn't register a difference...
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I honestly haven't tried... I was just getting at the fact that manufacturers make thickness claims for coatings, but it is not something that I remember being mentioned with waxes or sealants. I've said this before in other discussions, but as consumers, we place a lot of trust in the claims that manufacturers make about their products... should we? I'm not sure... but what other choice do we have when we cannot accurately test all of the claims.

With the hand held paint thickness gauges we have available to us, I would not necessarily trust them to always be accurate enough to detect a 1 micron difference or precise enough to give the exact same reading over and over.
 
I believe with Cquartz Finest, Avi had posted a comparison where an installer did just two layers of Finest versus 12 layers of finest and a paint thickness gauge was able to tell the difference on a test panel they had just to see I guess how this would work out. That being said I don't think any coating used in the standard layer is going to add that much thickness. Not unless you started putting down 10 layers as a rule for any coating you install.
 
Jeremy1976 said:
According to him it has been tested the last year and a half all over the Country. It's acrylic. Was a short period he offered the kit pre release. I jumped on it.
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If it's acrylic, it's a paint sealant
Coatings are SI02 and or TI02 based
 
zmcgovern45 said:
I was just getting at the fact that
manufacturers make thickness claims
for coatings,

but it is not something that I remember
being mentioned with waxes or sealants.

I've said this before in other discussions,
but as consumers, we place a lot of trust
in the claims that manufacturers make
about their products...
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•IMO:
-It's possible that the below Coating
manufacturer's information could be
an example of non-Coating LSPs'
thicknesses that you don't remember
being mentioned:
________________________________

•Optimum's spokespersons have stated,
time and time again, that their Coatings
(the ones that they say adds up to 2
microns of thickness to the top coat's
paint-film) are 100X thicker than Waxes.

-That equates to Waxes adding .02 microns
of thickness to the top coat paint-film.
_____________________________________

•In your opinion:
-True; or no?



Bob
 
Jeremy1976 said:
So, I jumped on the coating wagon to give it a try. It was applied 4 weeks ago on my pearl white Lexus. We had one snow fall and cold temps here in Wisconsin in the last 2 weeks, and some road salt applied to the roads. After 4 weeks of having the coating on I already have iron deposits forming on the paint.

I specifically coated hoping to prevent these iron deposits. In spring the car will once again be peppered withem and a full detail will be needed including Iron X, clay, etc. Water beading and hydrophobic properties are great, along with the gloss to the paint, but really no different than a paint sealant like WGPS or Collinite 845.

I'm finding there is no "magic pill" that will prevent the iron deposits in Wisconsin. I think the combination of cold weather with the hot brake dust and iron coming off in winter really makes the deposits bond to the clear coat. I may look into a different type material of brake pads.

In closing I got the results that I expected. I figured the deposits would still occur. I was just surprised at how fast. The coating worked well at rinsing off the majority of road salt with a pressure washer and looked clean after. However, once doing a RW with WG you could clearly see the layer of grime that was still left on the car.
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well i think u should be rinsing with a pressure washer once a week to get the salts off
 
Keep in mind if I recall reading the GD information last month about this kit, you need to apply the booster every month. Maybe in inclement weather you need to apply the booster every week. In FL winter maybe it's every month... sounds like a lot of work for a coated car. I coated mine to make life easy..
 
Lots of new "coatings" product coming out by Spring. Hope everyone that tries new stuff shares any "testing" done.
 
A product that requires a booster every month sounds like a waste of money and time when you can just apply a booster every month? I don't see the reason for the initial coating if you require boosters. None of the glass/ceramic coatings really need a booster, it'll still be strong on the paint. Only thing I would put on top of a coating is a carnauba wax and that's just for looks and no other reason at all.
 
WillSports3 said:
A product that requires a booster every month sounds like a waste of money and time when you can just apply a booster every month?
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With all due respect to Garry Dean, what a great gimmick. A coating that is guaranteed to work well and look great so long as you use a booster every month.

I have a new coating coming out. It looks great and is easy to apply. It just has to topped with 845 every month. You'll be amazed how how it looks beads water.
 
RippyD said:
With all due respect to Garry Dean, what a great gimmick. A coating that is guaranteed to work well and look great so long as you use a booster every month.

I have a new coating coming out. It looks great and is easy to apply. It just has to topped with 845 every month. You'll be amazed how how it looks beads water.
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I was thinking the same thing, wiping off the high spots with another booster seems odd to me but he's a good salesman.


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I feel less inclined to trust his product because he does the youtube videos where for one of them he actually states he doesn't like coatings compared to sealants. That's all fine but now he's got a coating out too.
 
WillSports3 said:
A product that requires a booster every month sounds like a waste of money and time when you can just apply a booster every month? I don't see the reason for the initial coating if you require boosters. None of the glass/ceramic coatings really need a booster, it'll still be strong on the paint. Only thing I would put on top of a coating is a carnauba wax and that's just for looks and no other reason at all.
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My thoughts exactly and not just the coating in question but coatings in general I see a trend, hence the below thread:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/106718-topping-coatings.html
 
I'm gonna do a test and update this thread when it is complete.

I will keep my car with what it has on it now.

My wife's car is also white. I will do a full decontamination including clay, do everything the same as my Lexus, but use WG Paint Sealant 3.0 as an LSP. I will RW wash the cars the same frequency throughout the winter and see how it turns out in spring.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
No, you misunderstood me. The fine print on those dealer "coatings" usually says you have to bring the car back in periodically for (free) maintenance (which no one does) or it voids the warranty. Or, in your example, what the salesman told you and what the warranty says are two different things, where they guarantee the paint for 5 years, except they exclude bird and chemical damage, iron spots, scratches, etc. so the "guarantee" is not worth the paper it's printed on. Besides I'm pretty sure some mfrs. warranty the paint to not fail for 5 years.
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So because Sting wrote that song "Synchronicity", a guy at work just got a new car a week or two ago, and yesterday I see he's got a loaner car from the dealer. So I ask him what happened and he told me they are doing the super duper exterior "protect your paint from bird poop for 5 years" and interior protection "like I got on my last car"--on which I told him he got taken for a ride. So I ask him how much that cost and he said $300, so I tried to explain to him that a real paint coating alone would cost more than that, and to read his fine print, it will say what I said above. I'll report back if he tells me what the fine print says.

Mind you, this guy knows I eat/drink/sleep detailing and that I'm a car guy, but he never asks my advice on anything before he does it, because he's one of those guys who knows the advice will be against what he wants to do, so he doesn't want to hear it.
 
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