McKee's 37 Paint Coating Not Resistant to Salt?

I phrased it wrong. What I meant is it's not water soluble to the point where you just wet your car and it'll all dissolve off.

Well, that's because it's "road film". As Mike Phillips has noted, and I think I mentioned earlier in this thread, whether it's just rain during the summer, or snow mixed with salt, it also mixes with all the oil, trans fluid, coolant, gasoline, tar, Starbucks, etc. that's on the road.
 
I phrased it wrong. What I meant is it's not water soluble to the point where you just wet your car and it'll all dissolve off. Just power washing it will not get rid of it, not when it's mixing with the various road grime and getting stuck on your car. It's basically not the same as table salt. Table salt will dissolve in water quickly, but road salt can be left in a container of water for a very long time. It's why the roads are always white here. The magnesium chloride they use doesn't help either. Point is with road salt on paint, it'll stick even if the paint is coated. Sometimes you just require stronger cleaners.

Ya know this got me thinking. If salt is so tough to remove, would nuetralizing it before attempting to remove it help. I don't know but I found this. How to Neutralize Road Salt | eHow
 
Another classic coating "you gotta top it" scenario. Seems like that's the answer everytime other than maybe they just don't do what they claim. If you are supposed to be adding a topper every wash why even put the coating on.

Yes/No. You don't have to, but if you're washing a car and taking the time to do that, you might as well use a good detail spray like CarPro ECH20 to help fend off road grime and what not that makes it's way onto the surface and will stick to any coating.
 
Ahhh I see what you mean there. Being I'm coating it, if I do a Rinseless less wash on it, I really shouldn't have to WW it. Grated it's not DIRTY and just has some dust etc on it.
 
How does the baggie test feel over the surface of the paint after you've washed it? I'm surprised no one's asked that yet.


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I'd give it a decon wash. Something like ferrex followed by a mix of APC into your wash. That should remove the road grime and allow you to see if the coating is still there or is gone. Maybe even ironx snow foam might work.
 
No one seems to put up a clear cut answer just a lot of back and forth which leads to top it every wash

At least rasky seems to be trying to test this.

I love the idea of coatings and have tried several. but the answer around here always seems to be top it every wash

Why are the companies that make the coatings or other items not making a special "winter wash" that will take away all the alleged contamination even if it had stuff that made your coating re bead people would think it would work and it would be a great seller.


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Why are the companies that make the
coatings or other items not making a
special "winter wash"...
Although it may not be made by
a 'Coating' company, per se...
one such product is Salt-Away.


Bob
 
No one seems to put up a clear cut answer just a lot of back and forth which leads to top it every wash I love the idea of coatings and have tried several. but the answer around here always seems to be top it every wash

Why are the companies that make the coatings or other items not making a special "winter wash" that will take away all the alleged contamination even if it had stuff that made your coating re bead people would think it would work and it would be a great seller.

So do you consider using a detail spray as a final step to a wash a "topper" to the coating?

I think in reality as Mike has noted, road grime and contaminants are going to stick to any and most all coatings if left on the car, especially in nasty weather.

Just curious as to your expectations of them.
 
What do I expect from a coating?

Here's an example of alleged coating right from mckees website. If I or the OP cant expect that, then what should we expect that the wash doesn't wash or the tire shine doesn't shine ?

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And.

c84bb6bf9904f1cc2219deb52e76ecbb.jpg


So you don't read that as no dirt can stick to it ? "Preventing dirt, water, oil and anything else from adhering"
We are talking salt used on roads in winter in a lot of the country.

I'm sure hope I'm not being labeled as taking shots at this company or product as I have never tried it. But it's in plain print on their own website not hear say from a blogger.


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I want a coating to work my wife and I both drive by rock quarries every day. Her GMC is black after a rain or snow the thing is so unbelievably filthy stuff is everywhere. Mine is white and it's not as obviously but it's still filthy. I have contaminants you can feel on the fenders after maybe 2 weeks tops. Even with several washes in between.


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Coatings are not contaminant proof. So they will develop contaminants on them just like a wax or sealant. Road film is another form of contaminant. It's just how life is.
 
Although it may not be made by
a 'Coating' company, per se...
one such product is Salt-Away.


Bob

Bingo. A few Road Salt Remover products exist; said to emulsify that salt (and safe for wax so coating should be OK too), then rinse away. Seen some vids on youtube but that's about the extent of my experience with them.
 
As others have said, coatings will still get contamination and I think the biggest is, not saying in your specific case but I see it alot when people talk about coatings and how long they last is that they are not a one coat to end it all. Maintenance is key and your environment will dictate how often a maintenance wash is, it could be 3 weeks or 3 days

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Only a few days in and while the tailgate isn't super dirty yet, you can see some subtle differences.

EXOv3, CQuartz Finest, and Feynlab Ceramic seem to be staying the cleanest so far, FK1000 is probably the dirtiest. I may wash it this weekend but we'll see how it goes.

 
The City of Chicago has trucks that spray beet juice on the salt as it is dispensed at the rear of the truck. The beet juice is stored in large tanks on both sides of the truck.
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