McKee's 37 Paint Coating Not Resistant to Salt?

Desertnate said:
Thanks for the feedback!

How are you washing the truck? Rinseless? Waterless? Local touchless place? I can't imagine you doing a two bucket this time of year in MN!
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Typically I will run my truck through a touch-less and ONR wash in the garage when I get home. I plan to do a tradition wash on the test panel though since ONR has polymers in it. ;)
 
I see the same behavior from Hydro2 where ever the heavy road spray sticks to the paint. Million dollar question is the spray eating away at he LSP or is it just sticking to it and changing its hydrophobic behavior. I sure know it makes those parts harder to clean and surface contaminants stick like glue on those areas. I do what Nick recommends and use spray wax toppers a lot in winter for now. But next year I am trying CSl topped with EXOV3, per Brandt's long term reviews and the fact that nothing has stuck to it on him and it barley even gets dirty.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Typically I will run my truck through a touch-less and ONR wash in the garage when I get home. I plan to do a tradition wash on the test panel though since ONR has polymers in it. ;)
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Isn't the "traditional wash" going to have some kind of polymers in it, too?
 
I don't think many o any coatings really layer, from what I understand the second coat is just to fill any spots that might have been missed and anything after that is a waste but I'd love to hear what Nick says

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All multiple layers to a certain point is increase shine. You're basically flattening out the area more, hence why I do three layers everytime I coat, just because I like the look more.
 
Cruzscarwash said:
I don't think many o any coatings really layer, from what I understand the second coat is just to fill any spots that might have been missed and anything after that is a waste but I'd love to hear what Nick says

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So what would happen if DesertNate took a coating prep polish and preped the failing area, then did another coat?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Isn't the "traditional wash" going to have some kind of polymers in it, too?
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Who know's...:dunno:

I'll be using CarPro Reset, which says it uses "Intelligent pH Surfactants". It's not supposed to leave anything behind, which is what I'm going for. ;)
 
glfnaz said:
So what would happen if DesertNate took a coating prep polish and preped the failing area, then did another coat?
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If I get to he point where I'll be re-applying I probably won't go the route of using an actual prep polish. I'll wash, clay, and then hit the areas with a spray coating prep like Eraser or the Blackfire equivalent. From there I'll simply apply more product with the hopes it will fill in or cover the areas which have failed. I'm not needing to do any correction, so mechanically preping the area is probably overkill.
 
Another classic coating "you gotta top it" scenario. Seems like that's the answer everytime other than maybe they just don't do what they claim. If you are supposed to be adding a topper every wash why even put the coating on.


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MattPersman said:
Another classic coating "you gotta top it" scenario. Seems like that's the answer everytime other than maybe they just don't do what they claim.
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Matt,

There's a number of reasons to apply this or any other paint coating, including but not limited to:

1. Gloss (the most obvious, in my opinion)
2. Ease of use (requires no more time or effort than a conventional car wax)
3. Self-Cleaning Effect (coatings shed dirt, water, snow, and salt much better than a conventional wax)
4. Longevity (wax will last 2-3 months; coating will last years)


If you are supposed to be adding a topper every wash why even put the coating on. (?)
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If your ultimate goal is to keep your vehicle protected to the best of your ability, I think the better (and more obvious) question is why not?

Why not?

1. Add more gloss?
2. Increase slickness?
3. Extend longevity?

Plus, we're all guilty of the same thing: we can't leave our cars alone! We like to touch them. We like to try new products. We like to add more gloss. We like to feel how slick the paint is.

:dblthumb2:
 
oneheadlite said:
Do spray waxes help prevent the winter crud from sticking better than spray sealants?
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I say spray wax but really its usually Meg's synthetic spray wax which is more sealant then wax as its not nuba based. I dont think it maters if its wax or sealant its just adding new LSP at each wash to try and keep those panels hydrophobic so the shed dirt and grim easier. Is it just lying on top of real lsp thats covered in crud and now has lsp on top the crud or did salt nd spray remove lsp and its just a quick coat off sacrificial lsp that may only last 1-3 weeks??? no clue but does seem to keep it cleaner between washes and it washes easier next time. If I dont use topper each wash after a month or so and 3-4 washes those lower panels need heavy scrubbing to clean and if any tire spray gets on them it sticks like glue. Winter sucks.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Who know's...:dunno:

I'll be using CarPro Reset, which says it uses "Intelligent pH Surfactants". It's not supposed to leave anything behind, which is what I'm going for. ;)
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Oh, I forgot about that stuff---I guess that's about as neutral as it gets.
 
The problem with road salt is that it is not water soluable the way a lot of other things are so if you use a car shampoo or a wash method whether it's waterless or rinseless that does not cut through all the salt and the crud, then it will kill the beading regardless of the coating. In Canada here at least in my city in Toronto, they use the salt brine as well as good old fashioned rock salt. It means that sometimes after the winter time, you pretty much, regardless of a coated car or not have to use a pretty strong soap afterwards to wash your car in the spring to bring back the beading. To be honest my car is a mess right now but it's CQuartz UK coated so most of the time I wash the car once a month. I just power spray the undercarriage every week with high pressure soap and water. In the spring, I'm going to use a degreaser to spray the lower panels of my car and then use IronX Soap as well as Reset to give my car the deep cleaning it needs. The lower panels on the cars in the winter time just get hit so damn hard, that's the main issue. The salt dries and becomes a dust that gets on it so a freshly washed car will lose its beading after a day or two on the lower panels to be honest, not necessarily an indication of the coating not working or anything like that.
 
WillSports3 said:
The problem with road salt is that it is not water soluable...in my city Toronto, they use the salt brine as well as good old fashioned rock salt.
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Um...huh? Rock salt is good ol' sodium chloride, if that wasn't water soluble, well, we wouldn't have those things known as the seven seas. And if it wasn't water soluble, how would it ever get washed off the road by the rain, and wouldn't it just stay there until the next winter and work just as well without them having to put down more? And of course brine is, by definition, salty water.
 
Maybe the lowers just need a good old fashion decont. but for this winter, and my last 2 winter washes......I've just Hydr02 the panels at a dilution rate of 8:1. Panels are coated and reloaded. So whatever adheres with Hydr02, let the salt attack that.

With the panels so hydrophobic, I was a skeptic Hydr02 would apply. but it seems like to some level it's sticking.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Um...huh? Rock salt is good ol' sodium chloride, if that wasn't water soluble, well, we wouldn't have those things known as the seven seas. And if it wasn't water soluble, how would it ever get washed off the road by the rain, and wouldn't it just stay there until the next winter and work just as well without them having to put down more? And of course brine is, by definition, salty water.
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I phrased it wrong. What I meant is it's not water soluble to the point where you just wet your car and it'll all dissolve off. Just power washing it will not get rid of it, not when it's mixing with the various road grime and getting stuck on your car. It's basically not the same as table salt. Table salt will dissolve in water quickly, but road salt can be left in a container of water for a very long time. It's why the roads are always white here. The magnesium chloride they use doesn't help either. Point is with road salt on paint, it'll stick even if the paint is coated. Sometimes you just require stronger cleaners.
 
Hard Brake Lines, under chassis aside for rinsing - it's semi pointless to wash the cars during the winter season....even if the panels are pristine clean, just taking it for a drive...the dusty salt in the area just leave a fine layer like pollen. Just can't win this time of the year
 
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