Details & Review.......

justin_murphy

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This will be a short write up. This mainly a review two products that are main staples in my business now. I've been looking for a system that will both benefit me and my customers when it comes to my wash/wax packages. I truly believe that in order to get the durability and look out of any wax/sealant, you must clean the paint. Then comes the time and cost of polishing. This is where an All-in-One comes in. One of the myths is that an AIO will not last as long as a stand alone LSP. I too have seen this. The solution? Lock in the protection with a product that will even give more protection. This takes care of the customer, but what about the detailer? The application system needs to be fast and efficient.

Here's is what I've came up with........

I can wash and vacuum almost any bi-weekly SUV in less than one hour. My goal was to add only 25 more minutes for a DURABLE protection session.

The Tools
(Cyclo Polisher with EDGE2K Green/White Combo Pads)

The Chemicals
(Poorboy's Polish with Sealant & Optimum's Opti-Seal)
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First I polish the entire vehicle with PwS. This includes all glass and roof. I do the entire vehicle first before removing in the same matter of application. I do use a damp MF towel to clean my pads with half way through this process. I simply fold to towel over and place it on my tailgate. I then push the Cyclo and pads onto the towel and turn the machine on.

After removing the PwS, I flip the pads over to the white sides. I spray one pump of Opti-Seal (OS) onto each pad. I then place the pads onto the hood and while in place, turn the machine on. I'm just loading (priming) the pad here. I then use 2-3 sprays to finish the vehicle with. This includes the roof. I then take one of the pads off and protect the wheels. Just because you can't feel the dampness of the OS on the pads does not me that it's not there. Remember, there is no removal of Opti-Seal. It simply vanishes if done correctly.

Here are two that I did about 2 weeks ago. I saw them today after a rain and it looked like they had just been washed.

The cleaning power of Poorboy's Polish with Sealant.
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2006 Ford Explorer.......
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2006 Mercury Mariner.......
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Did I mention how well the glass looked?
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Seems like a good plan. I don't know much about the opti-seal. I'll have to read up on it.

I washed my car this weekend (I did a review of the PB SS&Wax). Well, it rained like a biblical flood yesterday and now the car looks like hell.
 
i like that set up. i am not a huge fan of Opti-seal, i find that It dosent last as long as i would like, however this system for a bi-weekly or a montly customer would be great. I might have to steal it from you.
thanks for sharing
 
is applying the OS by cyclo faster than the normal way?
 
As always, impressive results Justin. Did you get close to the 25 minute goal? I've always had to use a lot more time with PB PwS on the PC but do like it.
 
That's a very smart idea, Justin. Time and cost efficient. What's the expected durability of protection on this? Around 3 months?
 
That's a very smart idea, Justin. Time and cost efficient. What's the expected durability of protection on this? Around 3 months?

Holy crap! I was starting to give up on seeing another "justinized" vehicle....glad to see YOU'RE BACK!! Welcome back bro....

Oh, nice combo. I really like PWS......disappears very quickly, works great. Very similar to XMT360, with just a hair less correcting ability. I just did my newly acquired blazer with 360/optiseal........it looks amazing.

Good write up:cheers:
 
justin..enjoyed the write up. were you on target time wise?
 
what kind of prep did you do prior to polishing?

I just washed it with a stiff wash.........dawn and purple power combo. Since PwS cleans the paint, it was that was needed.

Got this process done in about 28 minutes. Took some pics in there too. That's plenty fast enough for me.
 
As always, impressive results Justin. Did you get close to the 25 minute goal? I've always had to use a lot more time with PB PwS on the PC but do like it.


Two things:

1) You said you beleive in cleaning the paint, how about the clay bar? That definitely takes some time if you want to do it right otherwise don't do it. Usually to me it takes 1 hour doing a quick clay, a very attentive clay can take a lot longer, how do you avoid this problem with older or cars with more mileage?

2) Can PBwS be applied via UDM + white LC pad with same results?
 
Two things:

1) You said you beleive in cleaning the paint, how about the clay bar? That definitely takes some time if you want to do it right otherwise don't do it. Usually to me it takes 1 hour doing a quick clay, a very attentive clay can take a lot longer, how do you avoid this problem with older or cars with more mileage?

2) Can PBwS be applied via UDM + white LC pad with same results?


Neither of these cars needed claying. An hour would add 50.00 to the bill for the customer. If it needs it, I tell the customer and then they make the decision. I do this for a living. I don't give anything away.

Claying is not the only way to clean the paint on a car. Look at my pads and you will see that.

I'm not familiar with LC's pads but I've used it with the UDM with great results. The same for 360.
 
The white CCS pad and PwS will be a great cleaner / sealant. If you want some swirls removed, you'll need to bump up to a light cut (orange) pad. PwS is pad dependant.
 
I back PWS up. Amazing 1 step and OS on top I bet the depth is worth $100 easy :) Nice write up Justin!!
 
Justin I know you've used 360.... which is better in your opinion? and what's really funny is PwS looks alot like RL Polish and protect??? wonder if they're made by the same company... what's even weirder is that your pads got as dirty as mine with the cyclo, but they don't get like that with the udm... gonna have to try out RL products with the UDM and see what happens.
 
How does an older car with millage not need a claying when NEW cars benefit greatly from claying? How do you determine the difference between NEED and just claying to get a better final result? I know the product you used "cleans" the paint, but what about the theory that the dirt thats still left on the paint AFTER washing gets grinded into the paint? Thoughts?
 
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How does an older car with millage not need a claying when NEW cars benefit greatly from claying? How do you determine the difference between NEED and just claying to get a better final result? I know the product you used "cleans" the paint, but what about the theory that the dirt thats still left on the paint AFTER washing gets grinded into the paint? Thoughts?


He said he gives the customer the option if they want it clayed or not. In theory every car should be clayed... however some detailers have that as an option or upgrade. everyone does their own thing. doesn't make it right or wrong. just preference.
 
I realize that. But he said the car didnt need it. So Im just curious as to why it didnt. Like you said, every car should be clayed.
 
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