alright .. really how do you wash a big suv in the sun

RW or WW with one hand and dry right behind with the other hand. Not one section at a time but with each swipe. I also like to follow with a cleaner wax.
 
Keep entire vehicle WET till ready to dry. Wet, wash, rinse and keep re-rinsing entire thing till ready to dry. Then use a drying aid to help remove and spotting.

My driveway face east/west, so it gets early morning sun with a uv index of 12+, so this is what works for me.



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I agree with Mike and ronkh57. I also have a black Tahoe that I wash 1-2 times a week. Before sunrise is always the easiest by far or after sunset. When that's not possible, I do what ronkh57 suggested. Sometimes even grab one of the kids or wife as a "wetter". I keep it wet while washing then quickly pull it into the garage after final rinse for drying. I don't have a spotless water system and have very hard water. When the dirt is light, I hit it with my pressure washer then pull it into the garage for a waterless wash.

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RMarkJr said:
if you are using it hooked up to the pressure washer what psi and gpm is it? mine is a 3200 psi and 3.5gpm pressure washer and I am wondering if it reduces water flow to go through the filter to the point where I couldnt use the pressure washer that I have.
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Note that even if the largest CR Spotless unit will have a max rating of 2.5 gpm before it becomes less effective at deionizing. My cordless pressure washer is rated at 1 gpm and I find it's sufficient for washing, plus it prolongs the life of the resin. I wash and rinse sections of my SUV at a time (starting with the roof of course) and never have to worry about the sun anymore. For years I've been trying to find ways to wash in the sun since I don't have shade available. Eventually, I said the heck with it and paid $300 for my CR Spotless DIC-20. Couldn't be happier!
 
GSteg said:
Note that even if the largest CR Spotless unit will have a max rating of 2.5 gpm before it becomes less effective at deionizing. My cordless pressure washer is rated at 1 gpm and I find it's sufficient for washing, plus it prolongs the life of the resin. I wash and rinse sections of my SUV at a time (starting with the roof of course) and never have to worry about the sun anymore. For years I've been trying to find ways to wash in the sun since I don't have shade available. Eventually, I said the heck with it and paid $300 for my CR Spotless DIC-20. Couldn't be happier!
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But he's talking about the discharge side of the pressure washer having 3.5 gpm. The CR goes on the suction side of the pressure washer so the max gpm discharge will be dictated by the supply pressure of the water. The CR should not decrease the gpm of the supply water by any significant gpm at all so as long as the supply water is sufficient for his pressure washer now, adding the CR should have no adverse affect.
 
ronkh57 said:
Keep entire vehicle WET till ready to dry. Wet, wash, rinse and keep re-rinsing entire thing till ready to dry. Then use a drying aid to help remove and spotting.

My driveway face east/west, so it gets early morning sun with a uv index of 12+, so this is what works for me.
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While I don't live in Florida, I have to take a similar approach as I have no shade and an east/west driveway as well. I use the same technique, with a slight modification. I start off ONLY wetting/rinsing the areas with the least sun exposure and then wash those areas. From there I work to the sides with the most exposure, but will keep the washed areas wet to keep from spotting. This does lead to me doing the roof about half-way through...and I know that is a big foul, but I've found this method to reduce the ammount and severity of water spots.

I also use a drying aid, but I've found that since I have a coating on the vehicle vs a sealant, the water spots come off much easier with very little effort and QD product.
 
Wait for the sun to go down.... and use a head torch. =)
 
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