Polish Angel Viking Coat 10 Months old A++

[Eldorado2k]

@SWETM. Here’s what the beading of Carpro Ech2o/Reload looks like as a standalone. [applied the day before this rain]

Compared to a dedicated sealant. [applied 6 weeks ago]

 

[custmsprty]

Here's what Polish Angel White Alabaster applied as stand alone beading looks like applied the day before it rained. Nice round solid beads.

View attachment 62409

 

[The Guz]

Just a quick suggestion for you, instead of claying polishing and redoing a panel, try just using fall out remover like Iron X. Honestly, with how good coatings are nowadays, after a good Iron X decon the paint should feel smooth again. I live in Toronto here and after the spring time, I basically just iron Xed my car for my basically one and only 2BM wash of the year and the paint was smooth again.

I agree. A chemical decon is more than enough to remove a majority contaminants.

That’s a bold statement...

Not really a bold statement. I agree with his statement and share his experience.

 

[Eldorado2k]

I agree. A chemical decon is more than enough to remove a majority contaminants.



Not really a bold statement. I agree with his statement and share his experience.

I would not worry too much about it not passing the baggie test. The important thing is that the coating is doing it's job in protecting the paint.

I would recommend a decon wash with an iron remover and a strong wash with CarPro Reset. This will not remove all of the contaminants but it will help.

You say you agree, and that share his experience... Yet you’ve also said to “not worry too much about passing the baggie test” and that a “decon wash will not remove all of the contaminants, but will help”

So which 1 is it? You can’t have it both ways just for the sake of disagreeing, you know.

Show me an example of anyone who’s turned their rough, baggie test failing paint into smooth as glass paint without the use of a claybar/claymitt. I’d love to see it.

 

[The Guz]

Just a quick suggestion for you, instead of claying polishing and redoing a panel, try just using fall out remover like Iron X. Honestly, with how good coatings are nowadays, after a good Iron X decon the paint should feel smooth again. I live in Toronto here and after the spring time, I basically just iron Xed my car for my basically one and only 2BM wash of the year and the paint was smooth again.

That’s a bold statement...

You say you agree, and that share his experience... Yet you’ve also said to “not worry too much about passing the baggie test” and that a “decon wash will not remove all of the contaminants, but will help”

So which 1 is it? You can’t have it both ways just for the sake of disagreeing, you know.

Show me an example of anyone who’s turned their rough, baggie test failing paint into smooth as glass paint without the use of a claybar/claymitt. I’d love to see it.

And both are true statements that I stand by. I could say 95%, 80%, 60% etc... on the amount of the contaminants which are removed with a decon. But one can not quantify the amounts of contaminants removed. I stand by what Will has posted and what I have posted in saying that a decon wash will remove a majority of the contaminants. I also stand by the baggie test statement as well. I am not saying I am not a believer but I would not be too worried about it either. Why risk the chance of marring the ceramic coated surface with claying? I would not want to redo all my work weeks later. I am also with the folks of not overly claying every few weeks as we have seen what happens when claying goes wrong.

So yes I share the same experience as Will and agree with what he posted. Take it as you wish.

Nowhere did I say that a decon is a replacement for claying a car that has never been clayed before. You misinterpreted my statements on how to maintain a coated vehicle for one that has never been clayed before.

 

[SWETM]

@SWETM. Here’s what the beading of Carpro Ech2o/Reload looks like as a standalone. [applied the day before this rain]

Compared to a dedicated sealant. [applied 6 weeks ago]

And how long are that holding up on it's own? The difference between Ech2o as WW and Ech2o at QD and added reload do you think it's about the same longevity on it's own? I for sure don't think that Ech2o reload would look the same after 6 weeks after applyied. So no I don't count Ech2o WW as a topper that has a big impact to the longevity of a coating. It's the best choice between the choices of WW and rinseless washing to use on ceramic coatings without alter the coating properties. N-914 is another great choice and what I have read Wolfgang uber rinseless glossenhancer don't alter it either. Not saying that other WW or rinseless products are bad on other lsp but what is the better choice on ceramic coating. Then it comes down to how often you do WW or rinseless wash also. And what kind of environment and how much you drive your car and how it's stored.

I can only say that in my kind of environment with winter weather in Sweden and not been able to wash every week but when the wheather allows it to. The lower side panels seems done after the prewash and I use quite the harsh chemicals to do so. The goal is to get it as clean as possible before touching the paint and loosen up as much I can. Then I 2bm wash with carpro reset and after the final rinse and the dry rinse it's revived again in sheeting to those parts that looked done at start. Would a rinse and 2bm wash without the prewash stage do the same. I don't think so and when I have only rinsed of the car I would not like to touch the paint and look if it does either. Cause the dirt that is left with only rinsed is not something you would like to rubb. Then when it comes to if the paint passes the baggie test after a wash I don't know since the properties is still there with sheeting and beading so I don't look if it does. I will do a a baggie test after the next wash just out of the curiousity. It's been 7-8 weeks since I did a wash and the car was polished in mid of april last year. The lsp from the polishing has been. First I applyied 2 coats of Ultima paint guard plus the old solvent based version. This was holding up with Sonax BSD and Angelwax QED and a QD from a domestic detailing company. Those has some more longevity as most of the QD has. I have got 2 months longevity with Sonax BSD on it's own and washed with reset till it lost it's water properties so it's more of a sealant light. In october I decided to get thrue winter with Gyeon Wet Coat. So a decon wash with tar and iron remover before applying Wet Coat. And was able to apply it in november and december one time also. Tested a sio2 car soap once and no toppers beside that. Then as I described before when the lower side panels feeled done I tested a new glossenhancer spray it's like the PA Spritz. This where in mid of january this last wash was done. And sure the lower side panels is very dirty and sheeting is not great cause of the road grime and road salt that is stuck on it. But is happy when it's looked as dirtiest a couple a weeks ago and now a little over freezing the car looks cleaner than then. So the self cleaning ability is there which I have not experienced before. But looking forward to the spring when it's time for polish and apply Polish Angel Master Sealant as lsp.

 

[fightnews]

If I'm going to detail my car I want to remove 100% of the containment not 80% or 95%. Who cares if you have to re apply a coating? That's 1 of the reasons coatings suck. It's a negative like water spots. You can't clay the coating and not expect damage.

 

[fightnews]

Sure it has some sio2 in it so maybe a little it's adding. But I don't think that it has that much of an impact to the longevity. It's about the same with any waterless wash with wax in it I think. At the end of the base protection it's holding up between washes. If the wash solutions with added protection in them would be the only needed lsp if they ads a significant of protection. It's hard to say what it really ads that impact the longevity of the lsp. Just my thoughts about it. With the spritz product is another story which claims to about 6 months longevity on it's own. But it's strange with toppers and their capability to extend the longevity of lsp. If you where to apply PA Viking Coat and use Viking Spritz as a topper every 3 months. When would the Viking Coat be gone? And it's a intresting question with all of the base lsp and the use of the toppers recommend applyied in the time range of their longevity on their own.

Well I worked with a guy who had a black truck and never waxed it once in 8 years and the paint looked great.

 

[SWETM]

Well I worked with a guy who had a black truck and never waxed it once in 8 years and the paint looked great.

What was his way to get that results?

 

[Ronin47]

Well I worked with a guy who had a black truck and never waxed it once in 8 years and the paint looked great.

Yeah I see 15 + year old cars whos paint is intact (apart from swirls) that has never seen any lsp and are daily driven.

 

[LEDetailing]

Here's what Polish Angel White Alabaster applied as stand alone beading looks like applied the day before it rained. Nice round solid beads.

View attachment 62409

Love the color of the paint combined with the low warm sun light. You always seem to get some great photos of your cars.

 

[custmsprty]

Thanks rops:

 

[Eldorado2k]

Nowhere did I say that a decon is a replacement for claying a car that has never been clayed before. You misinterpreted my statements on how to maintain a coated vehicle for one that has never been clayed before.

You’re right, I misinterpreted your statement. My mistake.

And how long are that holding up on it's own? The difference between Ech2o as WW and Ech2o at QD and added reload do you think it's about the same longevity on it's own? I for sure don't think that Ech2o reload would look the same after 6 weeks after applyied. So no I don't count Ech2o WW as a topper that has a big impact to the longevity of a coating. It's the best choice between the choices of WW and rinseless washing to use on ceramic coatings without alter the coating properties.

I have my bottle of Ech2o mixed up @10:1 + 3oz. of Reload. I applied it liberaly to my brothers car last Saturday after I washed & clayed it. Then I did a waterless wash with the same dilution this past Friday, because I knew it was going to rain on Saturday and I wanted it to have a solid layer of Ech2o’s protection on it. I was a bit disappointed with the beading...

So yesterday [Sunday] I decided to give it a waterless wash with Megs D114 and then gave the whole car a quik polish with Carpro Essence and then applied a dedicated sealant. Now it’s fully protected and beading fiercely the way I like it.

I haven’t tested how long Ech2o lasts on it’s own, but I’m pretty sure there would be a difference between QD dilution and WW + Reload dilution. Would it last 6 weeks? Well Carpro claims it will, I strongly disagree with that simply based on the fact that I’ve tested Reload on its own and it doesn’t last that long in the real world of daily drivers.

If I'm going to detail my car I want to remove 100% of the containment not 80% or 95%. That's 1 of the reasons coatings suck. It's a negative like water spots. You can't clay the coating and not expect damage.

I agree. And I don’t really have an issue with the fact that you can’t clay a coating, I have an issue with the coating not being able to prevent contaminants from bonding to it in the 1st place. If it’s supposedly superior protection, it shouldn’t suffer from that weakness. A quality sealant sure doesn’t have that problem..

 

[Finick]

@E2K

what’s your sealant of choice?


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[SWETM]

You’re right, I misinterpreted your statement. My mistake.



I have my bottle of Ech2o mixed up @10:1 + 3oz. of Reload. I applied it liberaly to my brothers car last Saturday after I washed & clayed it. Then I did a waterless wash with the same dilution this past Friday, because I knew it was going to rain on Saturday and I wanted it to have a solid layer of Ech2o’s protection on it. I was a bit disappointed with the beading...

So yesterday [Sunday] I decided to give it a waterless wash with Megs D114 and then gave the whole car a quik polish with Carpro Essence and then applied a dedicated sealant. Now it’s fully protected and beading fiercely the way I like it.

I haven’t tested how long Ech2o lasts on it’s own, but I’m pretty sure there would be a difference between QD dilution and WW + Reload dilution. Would it last 6 weeks? Well Carpro claims it will, I strongly disagree with that simply based on the fact that I’ve tested Reload on its own and it doesn’t last that long in the real world of daily drivers.



I agree. And I don’t really have an issue with the fact that you can’t clay a coating, I have an issue with the coating not being able to prevent contaminants from bonding to it in the 1st place. If it’s supposedly superior protection, it shouldn’t suffer from that weakness. A quality sealant sure doesn’t have that problem..

About the bonding contaminants. I think that most non autogeek does take advantage of the longer ability to wash less frequently as it stays cleaner longer than most waxes and sealants. This I think does the contaminants to be bonding harder to the paint. So if you have the same maintance with whatever wax sealant or coating I don't think that coating is more able to have imbedded contaminants as the others. Then something most don't notice is that coating is way more chemical resistant than wax or sealant without degrade the longevity of it. So if you where from the start useing a dedicated prewash foam and a car soap like reset or bathe. And do take care of the road film and other contaminants with the different chemicals lets say once a month or every second month. Then I think that the imbedded contaminants is going to be a non issue. But if you where to maintain a coating less than you maintain a sealant you are going to have problems. I do think that it's more important to maintain a coating more thoroughly than a sealant because the way longer the coating is on your car before applying a new coating. Then how often you do the maintance is depending on what kind of environment and the mileage you have. Then of cause it depends on what kind of coating you are useing as they also have different qualities as a wax or sealant has. That's also something I noticed that many think of coatings as one and the same that would be like treat all the sealants as one and the same also.

 

[MattPersman]

Contaminates are going to be different even with people that live next door to each other. If they drive and park there car next to a rail yard and their neighbor goes to a office that is free and clear of any sort of industrial fall out

I work right by a rock quarry. Like stone dust flying everywhere you can come out and see the heavy dust all over your car after 4-5 hours. Plus it’s all over the roads you have to drive through it they do run the street sweeper periodically but it’s still there. Then if you get a light rain like a misting kind that doesn’t accumulate enough to run off the car it mixes with the dust and stays on the car with dirty beads then dries. I haven’t found anything that stops these contaminates from bonding


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