Rust colored ring runs the inner circumference of brake rotor

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robwoodgto

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Hey Mike,

On my black 2014 Acura MDX brake rotors there is a rust colored ring running the inner circumference of the rotor. My Sienna has the same colored ring, and my Maxima has a thicker ring. Have you or anyone else reading this thread ever detailed that ring by either coating it with a high temp paint, or something else. While my MDX is neither a high end Porsche nor Ferarri with red brake calipers (which I happen to like by the way), I would like to know what others are doing about this issue if anything.

Thanks,
Ron
 
brettS4 said:
This might be helpful.
Click to expand...

See, I don't think he's talking about the rotor hat. There are some vehicles, for whatever reason, maybe it's just platform reuse, where the ground area of the rotor is a lot bigger than the swept area of the pad, and it leaves a rusty ring from the get-go.
 
But wouldn't that be the same as painting the rotor hat and extending the paint slightly onto the disc? (Assuming I understand you correctly.)
 
brettS4 said:
But wouldn't that be the same as painting the rotor hat and extending the paint slightly onto the disc? (Assuming I understand you correctly.)
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm just saying that his rotor hat may not need to be painted because it may not be rusted (yet). But same thing.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I will snap a picture today after I get off of work and upload it. BTW, this portion of my rotor is closest to the hub and does not come in to contact with my pads.

Thanks,
Ron
 
I know what your talking about. Clean the rust off with a wire brush and brake cleaner then a light sanding then mask out then paint. Use high heat paint a few coats would due then your good to go. Oh and couple coats of high heat clear as well.
 
Shawnuff said:
I know what your talking about. Clean the rust off with a wire brush and brake cleaner then a light sanding then mask out then paint. Use high heat paint a few coats would due then your good to go. Oh and couple coats of high heat clear as well.
Click to expand...

... AND don't go too thick with the paint and make SURE it's FULLY dry before reinstalling the rim to the rotor hat, or the paint will glue the two together.

Personally, I would paint the hat, let it dry, then brush some anti-seize compound on the back of the rim where it contacts the hat, to make sure they come apart easily the next time you need to dismount the rim from the car.
 
Don M said:
... AND don't go too thick with the paint and make SURE it's FULLY dry before reinstalling the rim to the rotor hat, or the paint will glue the two together.

Personally, I would paint the hat, let it dry, then brush some anti-seize compound on the back of the rim where it contacts the hat, to make sure they come apart easily the next time you need to dismount the rim from the car.
Click to expand...

Yea, what he said..
 
You can do them in silver or black, imo i think black looks best.
 
View attachment 56725View attachment 56726

Sorry for the delay in posting the above pictures of my 2014 MDX rotors. The ring is definitely out of the line of spin from the brake pads. I am not sure if the rust colored ring is called the rotor hat but whatever it is I would like to know if and what anyone has done to remedy this ugly looking ring on the rotor. I like the idea of masking the rotor off and painting it a silver mat color or something.

Below is a picture of my Sienna rotor. It is obvious the makeup of the rotor is different since the inside ring is a silver color and not a rust color.

View attachment 56724

Thanks,
Ron
 
I definitely wouldn't recommend putting anti seize between the rotor hat/hub and the mounting surface of the wheel. Anything in that area can prevent the wheel from seating 100% flush. If the wheel isn't flush against the mounting surface it can eventually loosen and possibly fall off.
 
View attachment 56728View attachment 56727View attachment 56729

I realize this is my wife's dd and it is no show car. I probably never repair all the tiny rock chips, or remove every one of the scratches, but I just figure if I am going to spend the time applying M105/M205 then topping it with ULW (which I happen to think looks nice), and go the distance to clean the barrels of my rims I would like to remove this rust ring if possible.

BTW is the ring called the rotor hat?

Thanks,
Ron
 
robwoodgto said:
View attachment 56725View attachment 56726

Sorry for the delay in posting the above pictures of my 2014 MDX rotors. The ring is definitely out of the line of spin from the brake pads. I am not sure if the rust colored ring is called the rotor hat but whatever it is I would like to know if and what anyone has done to remedy this ugly looking ring on the rotor. I like the idea of masking the rotor off and painting it a silver mat color or something.

Below is a picture of my Sienna rotor. It is obvious the makeup of the rotor is different since the inside ring is a silver color and not a rust color.

View attachment 56724

Thanks,
Ron
Click to expand...

Paint that small area if it is bothering you. There are various caliper paint kits on the market.
 
DaveT435 said:
I definitely wouldn't recommend putting anti seize between the rotor hat/hub and the mounting surface of the wheel. Anything in that area can prevent the wheel from seating 100% flush. If the wheel isn't flush against the mounting surface it can eventually loosen and possibly fall off.
Click to expand...

Really? Anti-seize might be a little extreme, but you're saying a even a film of grease might cause the wheel to come loose? I'd kind of presume after 100 ft-lbs on each lug that it would squeeze pretty much everything out of there. I've never heard of that, but I know you spent a lot of years in the business. I don't usually grease that surface, but I frequently will grease (white lithium) the hub diameter so the wheel doesn't get stuck on.

robwoodgto said:
BTW is the ring called the rotor hat?
Click to expand...

No, the hat is the smaller cylinder that extends out and meets the wheel.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Really? Anti-seize might be a little extreme, but you're saying a even a film of grease might cause the wheel to come loose? I'd kind of presume after 100 ft-lbs on each lug that it would squeeze pretty much everything out of there. I've never heard of that, but I know you spent a lot of years in the business. I don't usually grease that surface, but I frequently will grease (white lithium) the hub diameter so the wheel doesn't get stuck on.



No, the hat is the smaller cylinder that extends out and meets the wheel.
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I understand what your saying, but years of investigating all wheel offs it was determined that the biggest problem was something between those two surfaces. For years we visually inspected all hubs, held the wheels in place on the hubs, specific pattern tightening lugs, use torque stick so they didn't get over torqued, dropped it half way and torqued in a star followed by a circle. That didn't completely solve the problem. Now every hub and the mounting surface on the wheels have to be buffed.
When you torque the lugs to spec the torque is holding two clean dry pieces of steel together. After anti seize is added now your holding two surfaces with no grip against each other. Will it definitely make a wheel fall off, no...will a little bit of rust always make a wheel fall off, no. Is it possible it could cause a problem, yes. When it comes to bolting wheels on personally I won't take any chances. I don't care if it's something that could only have a one in a thousand chance of causing a wheel to come loose, I won't chance it. I've heard about the aftermath of wheels coming off on the highway. Not the company I worked for thankfully, but a big all terrain tire and wheel coming off on the highway and going through the windshield of oncoming traffic. Multiple fatalities. I would hate to have to live with something like that. Everything from all my years experience tell me using anti seize is asking for problems.
 
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