Advice needed. Using Meguiars no 7 Glaze on wet sanded paint?

J

James Dean

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Hello,
I have spent the last year painting my classic Rover V8 in traditional coach paint, using a mixture of paint brushes and rollers.
I was told at the start that i could wet sand and and polish the finish afterwards to make the paint as smooth and brush line free as possible, however i am now being told that the polishes used when machine polishing are too abrasive and will ruin the paint. It is synthetic enamel.

After reading the wonderful thread by Mike restoring the original paint on a lincoln Continental, i was wondering if i could do the following?
Wet sand the entire car down to 2500 grit or possibly to 5000 grit to make it as smooth as possible.
Then apply M7 in a few coats over a few days, then seal with a wax.
Im leaving a small panel to one side to practice on as i have enough paint to recover it if it goes wrong.
Does this sound possible and will it bring a good shine.
Best regards
James
View attachment 57889
 
I do believe the situations are a little different with your car and the Continental thread. Mike's technique is based off of single stage paint restoration which the paint has oxidized over a long period of time (i.e. - neglected). Since single stage is softer and more porous oxidization happens much more rapidly, unlike modern paint systems that are harder but the concern is protection from clear coat failure. But in your case you have single stage paint that is fresh.

Mike Phillips technique asside M7 is an ideal glaze made for single stage paint. It is difficult to tell from that picture but your painting job looks pretty good. I do find it hard to imagine under any circumstances where sanding should be your last correction step. Think about it: sanding is more abrasive than polishing. Now assuming the paint is softer, being fresh and not your modern two stage paint, paint will be abraded much more rapidly. So that is something to be mindful of.


I have not personally been in your shoes in this situation. But the information I provided was my critical thinking based on my personal experience and research on the forums. Hopefully someone that has done exactly what you have done can chime in.
 
I am curious what kind of polishes, pads, and machine do you have?
 
I'm not sure I get the logic of sanding abrasives not hurting the paint but polishing abrasives do.

I think the fear would be that there would be some kind of polishing oils, or solvents, in a polish or compound that could soften an uncured finish.

I'm definitely no expert on this but once the paint is fully cured, I would wet sand, compound, and polish.

The big question is how long does it take for that type of paint to fully cure when put on with a brush and roller. Since it is a thicker layer, or layers of paint, it may take quite a while.
 
James Dean said:
Hello,
I have spent the last year painting my classic Rover V8 in traditional coach paint, using a mixture of paint brushes and rollers.
Click to expand...

That's true. You can do this.


James Dean said:
I was told at the start that i could wet sand and and polish the finish afterwards to make the paint as smooth and brush line free as possible, however i am now being told that the polishes used when machine polishing are too abrasive and will ruin the paint.

It is synthetic enamel.
Click to expand...

It depends on what you are using. If you're using great abrasive technology then the people you are talking to don't know what they are talking about.

You need to list the products, tool and pads you're trying to use for this product.


NOTE: You can go cheap on the paint process by applying enamel with brushes and rollers. You CANNOT go cheap on the abrasive technology nor even the pads and tools.


James Dean said:
After reading the wonderful thread by Mike restoring the original paint on a lincoln Continental, i was wondering if i could do the following?

Wet sand the entire car down to 2500 grit or possibly to 5000 grit to make it as smooth as possible.
Then apply M7 in a few coats over a few days, then seal with a wax.
Im leaving a small panel to one side to practice on as i have enough paint to recover it if it goes wrong.
Does this sound possible and will it bring a good shine.
Best regards
James
Click to expand...

The above process of applying #7 to sanded paint will be a waste of your time and a waste of a bottle of #7


You need to sand the paint flat and then buff out your sanding marks using great abrasive technology, not cheap compounds.


I have a poll on this forum where I ask what is the #1 factor when it comes to polishing paint and most people say technique. That's an ego-driven answer.

The true answer is abrasive technology, it is what touches the paint first - not the pad, not the tool and least of all the person. :laughing:

Here's your car picture inserted

57889d1497211903-advice-needed-using-meguiars-no-7-glaze-wet-sanded-paint-dsc1449jpg



Reply with what you have for compounds and polishes, pads and tools and our forum members and myself will be glad to help you create a show winning high gloss finish on your Roller Paint Job.


:)
 
I would think using rollers and enamel you would be abrading the paint off.Have to try that one day if its coming from mike I would try it.I think paint hardener is the key.I recently bought a new camaro and painted some bolts to match the car seemed ok till I installed them the paint just wrinkled of the screws looking horrible. Just sent the screws to a body shop for a job done right.
 
GSKR said:
I would think using rollers and enamel you would be abrading the paint off.

Have to try that one day if its coming from mike I would try it.
Click to expand...


This is called a "roll-on" paint job. There's actually a website that caters to guys that want to paint their own cars without a normal paint sprayer.

Here's the deal, this approach works BECAUSE after you roll-on or brush on the paint, any brush marks or roller marks can be wet sanded off.

Think about it.... as long as there's enough paint on the surface all you have to do is sand the surface flat and then buff out your sanding marks and enamel like Rustoleum Enamel paint even after it dries is comparably soft compared to modern basecoat/clearcoat paint jobs. So it's easy for the novice to sand and buff BUT you still have to use good sandpapers and GREAT compounds and polishes to get a nice finish.


I've done this before with black Rustoleum and found it to work, that is brush it on, wait for a week, sand and buff. After doing this no one would know how I applied the paint as it was smooth and shiny.



:)
 
Thank you for the replies guys.
The paint as it stands is super glossy but there is still a hint of brush lines in the paint and some dust etc in the surface so i am wanting to sand it down to aim for perfection.

As for tools i don't have anything yet, I have used Unigrit sandpapers in the past. So i am open to suggestions. I have machined polished paint work in the past with good success but it was a different type of paint.

Some say if you polish coach enamel it just scratches and dosen't buff up at all. So i'm looking for a very non aggressive way of polishing. I'm going to sand a panel down to 2500/3000 soon and have a go by hand first.

There is definatley a lot of paint to work with, 2 coats primer, 2-3 coats undercoat, 3-4 coats of gloss.

Thanks again
 
James Dean said:
Some say if you polish coach enamel it just scratches and dosen't buff up at all.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with coach enamel but in the wood finishing world there are some finishes that don't respond well to be cut and buffed so that could be possible.

You didn't happen to paint up an extra test panel did you?

Maybe there's some unseen areas on yours that you could test your process out on first. Like the bottom sides of the fenders or something.?
 
I have enough paint to finish the sills and to repaint a quarter panel which im using as a tester now the paint has had enough time to cure.
 
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