Coating questions? Do they degrade? Are you married to them? Can you go back to a wax or sealant?

[WillSports3]

The main advantage of a coating for me is actually paint preservation. Polishing usually removes 1 to 2 microns of clear that is the accepted fact. However if I can add 1 to 2 microns of resin onto my car, I can instead be careful how I touch the car and remove as little clear as possible when I polish since most of what I remove will be the coating I applied initially.

 

[minerigger]

UFF is a sealant and CanCoat is like a lite version of a coating. It has SiO2 in it which is found in many coatings to give that more durable form of protection. It also has some fantastic water behavior in beading and sheeting. Much more so than UFF. Also the self cleaning effects are really nice. The only difference needed is a prep wipe prior to applying CanCoat.

Doesn't UFF claim 12 months protection whereas CC is 6 months? I understand the price difference now thank you, trying to figure out what I want to put on my work truck. Not going full coating because it'll get ignored and not as much care since it is an oil field vehicle

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[The Guz]

Doesn't UFF claim 12 months protection whereas CC is 6 months? I understand the price difference now thank you, trying to figure out what I want to put on my work truck. Not going full coating because it'll get ignored and not as much care since it is an oil field vehicle

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

As much as I want to believe UFF will last a year I personally don’t think it will. I had it on the paint for 3-4 months and it was performing well.

Here in my area of So Cal 6 months seems to be about right. 8 would be pushing it. The thing is with UFF it’s slightly easier and faster to apply.

On the video on Autogeek’s youtube channel, Jeff states CanCoat to last around 6-9 months. I’m at around 5 months and it’s doing really well with no signs of degradation.

For that truck, I’d probably go with UFF and reapply as needed.

 

[RippyD]

Doesn't UFF claim 12 months protection whereas CC is 6 months? I understand the price difference now thank you, trying to figure out what I want to put on my work truck. Not going full coating because it'll get ignored and not as much care since it is an oil field vehicle

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I hate to say this, but manufactures claims don't seem to have much to do with the reality. Even if the claims are true, they're likely for conditions that don't exist for most of us (garaged 95% of the time and rarely exposed to weather, for example).

 

[DoubleDare]

I understand the wisdom of removing a coating with light polishing after a year or so, and re-applying. But what if part of the car has paint protection film installed?

I’ve read a few times that running a machine polisher over PPF is a bad idea.

So if you have front-end PPF installed, are you better off just sticking with sealants and wax?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I understand the wisdom of removing a coating with light polishing after a year or so, and re-applying. But what if part of the car has paint protection film installed?

I’ve read a few times that running a machine polisher over PPF is a bad idea.

I've had good success running a machine over PPF to remove very light marring.

But it had LESS to do with the machine. It had EVERYTHING to do with the abrasive technology and pad choice. I did use a free spinning oribital polisher, I forget which ones over time but either a simple ROP like the Griot's 6" ROP or the RUPES BigFoot 21.

Kind of like I always post on this forum, on FB and teach in my classes, the MOST important factor when polishing anything STARTS with the abrasive technology. It's real simple to figure out... what TOUCHES the paint first?

So if you have front-end PPF installed, are you better off just sticking with sealants and wax?

I don't see any specific reason to do this. If you want to go with a coating, go with it. For the PPF, find a high quality one-step cleaner/wax like the BLACKFIRE One Step and "lightly" machine polish if and when needed. It seems to work really well on PPF and on paint too.

 

[fightnews]

And for anyone that doesn't understand what I mean when I say that your car's paint gets a build-up of dirt stain from road grime then click the link below, read the text and look at the pretty pictures....



Road Film - If you drive your car in the rain your car has road film


Here's why you need to polish paint...

This is good to many people here seem to think that their coating is a force field that dirt can not stick to.

I know for a fact you can get road film with in 4 weeks with a fresh coat of silica wax. Even if u wash it 1x per week

 

[fightnews]

im in a group text with a few forum members and this comes up at least twice a month. ive dipped my toe in the pool of coatings on my personal vehicles but I'm never satisfied with them. i always end up going back to sealants, the overall look and fact I can better keep my car in top shape because I apply a fresh coat 2-3 times a year with a light yearly polishing to keep it looking its best satisfies me best.

I don't know if maybe I haven't found that one right coating to work for me either, I offer coatings to my customers and they seem to love them but personally I just don't, at least not yet

I usually polish every 2-3 months. I use rupes diamond ultrafine. You can use it 1x a month if you want they say

 

[fightnews]

The main advantage of a coating for me is actually paint preservation. Polishing usually removes 1 to 2 microns of clear that is the accepted fact. However if I can add 1 to 2 microns of resin onto my car, I can instead be careful how I touch the car and remove as little clear as possible when I polish since most of what I remove will be the coating I applied initially.

Not if u use a fine or ultrafine polish.

 

[Desertnate]

Not if u use a fine or ultrafine polish.

I would think the hardness of the paint effects those conditions as well. You can probably lighty polish a hard clear coat like VW with a swirl remover and degrade very little, but the same effort applied to a Japanese car with soft paint will end up with different results.

 

[SWETM]

If you live in more harsh condition in that you get alot of road film and other contaminants. I would not be afraid of chemical decon wash regualary when haveing a coating or coating lite. They are really good at stand up to chemicals and I do it at least once a month. The thing to be carefull to use is chemicals with a higher ph level above 11 and under 2. So decon wash with letting the chemicals do the work in the prewash stage. To loosen up so much as possible of the road and other contaminants. Then when you first touching the paint with the wash mitt you have a better cleaning ability than without the prewash. Last wash I did on my car most would say that the lower side panels and the back of the car was done and needed to get a new lsp. But with a dedicated prewash foam and foamcannon to get the loose dirt and some imbedded grime clean rinsed off with the PW. Then a tar degreaser to get the other kind of imbedded grime off and clean rinse from the PW again. The following 2bm wash was a breese to do and got what the eye can see it squeeqe clean. When I dry rinsed it the sheeting of water was back at full strength of the whole car. If I do this regualary IME the imbedded grime is less on the paint than only doing 2bm washes. I use gyeon wet coat and it's holding up well since early december in Swedish winter weather.