New DA polisher question

MaxPower

MaxPower

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I just recently purchased my first DA polisher! woohoo the days of doing things by hand is over lol. Anyways my question. Ive clayed my vehicle recently and then applied wax to protect it. Now since i have the DA, i wasnt planning on claying it again since its within 2 weeks, but i was wondering if its ok to polish without taking that wax layer off or claying again? just trying to save some time if i can. Thanks!
 
I clay 1x per year on both a garaged car and a parked outside car. In between, following a wash, I go straight to a polish. But I have been thinking about this lately. I understand that I need to remove the last of the was/sealant before applying new wax/sealant. Generally, I use a dish detergent or mix some apc in with the car wash soap to accomplish this. But I'm not sure/confident that I have removed this layer of old wax/sealant, so I generally machine polish "to be sure". However, the cars generally don't need that polishing step since I'm not swirling the paint during washes and there's really no "correction" needed. Is polishing in this way harmful to the clear coat/paint?
 
If you're paint doesn't have many 'defects' such as swirls, water spotting, etc., then, you can use something like this https://www.autogeek.net/wg2000.html (amongst all the other products recommended/tested/tried) to just remove the old wax/sealant, rather than having to use a swirl remover, then polish, then seal. That's what I plan to do on my wife's car, as her cars' paint is pretty clean from what I can tell both under hard light from the Sun, and while parked under a BR30 LED in the garage.

Wash, use PC with the WG product I linked (on a LC CCS white pad), and then apply the sealant (LC CCS blue pad). Let cure (overnight), buff off, and then switch to a jewelling pad (LC CCS yellow) and apply some paste wax (Dodo Juice Blue velvet) as my LSP (though, some may not want to apply a wax over sealant. I just like to, sometimes).

I was going to do it this coming weekend, but, my neck muscles have a serious knot in them...which is preventing me from tackling that project. If it gets better, I'll consider doing just as I mentioned. :)
 
Polishing will definitely take the wax layer off. So, if you do polish, you'll need to wax again afterward. Waxing is always the last step (aside from quick detailing sprays on occasion).
 
JMak97008 said:
I clay 1x per year on both a garaged car and a parked outside car. In between, following a wash, I go straight to a polish. But I have been thinking about this lately. I understand that I need to remove the last of the was/sealant before applying new wax/sealant. Generally, I use a dish detergent or mix some apc in with the car wash soap to accomplish this. But I'm not sure/confident that I have removed this layer of old wax/sealant, so I generally machine polish "to be sure". However, the cars generally don't need that polishing step since I'm not swirling the paint during washes and there's really no "correction" needed. Is polishing in this way harmful to the clear coat/paint?
Click to expand...

Like Inthedeck said, use a paint cleaner that has no abrasives, but will clean the paint.
 
Ok next question, I’m using megs ultimate polish, and by the time I go over 4-6 passes and try to take the polish off some has already dried and I’m having to use a quick detail to get it off. Any reason why this is happening? Or how to fix?


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MaxPower said:
Ok next question, I’m using megs ultimate polish, and by the time I go over 4-6 passes and try to take the polish off some has already dried and I’m having to use a quick detail to get it off. Any reason why this is happening? Or how to fix?


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Click to expand...
Try priming your pad.
 
^^ +2. Also, if you want, use a spray mist to lubricate the pad, as well while working. So, prime pad, then, add a couple more 'dots' of liquid on the pad (configuration per your liking (star pattern, circle on edge of pad, etc)). apply to the car, and while you are working the PC and pad, once you apply more product, give the pad a mist or two with some QD. Seems to have helped me...low dust, no drying, and easy buff. Also, if you're product is drying, you may be doing too much at once...so, try working smaller sections. Just my own experience, that's what I'm speaking to. :)
 
Yeah maybe I’m doing to much. The sides of the vehicle I can’t seem to get right. I can’t tell if I’m causing marring or I need to cut more. Ugh just messing it all up. Guess that’s how it works when it’s my first time


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Yeah I’ve read that. I put 4 dime size dots, conditioned pad and only did half my door. I have a 2015 wrangler. Ugh frustrating. That’s for all the advise though.


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Sounds about right. Took me a few hours for my sedan...lots of contours. I was tired, at the end of it all, no doubt!
 
I like some Meg's products, but UP is not one of them. It works fine, I just have always had a hell of a time removing it.

I would suggest trying another polish that is easier to remove. I am partial to HD polish. Also, HD speed (an All In One or AIO) works very well.
 
PaulMys said:
I like some Meg's products, but UP is not one of them. It works fine, I just have always had a hell of a time removing it.

I would suggest trying another polish that is easier to remove. I am partial to HD polish. Also, HD speed (an All In One or AIO) works very well.
Click to expand...

I have UC, UP, and UW and also experienced that UP was challenging to wipe off, but then I figured out that I was trying to work too large an area. Took me a while to figure out that I couldn't work the same size area with UC and UP as I do with UW, lols.

OTOH, I also found it hard to remove Griot's Machine Polish 3 no matter what size area that I worked. I was always using Griot's QD to wipe it off...
 
MaxPower said:
Ok next question, I’m using megs ultimate polish, and by the time I go over 4-6 passes and try to take the polish off some has already dried and I’m having to use a quick detail to get it off. Any reason why this is happening? Or how to fix?


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
Click to expand...

Ultimate Polish is probably the one I've used most in the past four years. Always make sure to shake the bottle thoroughly.

I've found that if the paint is "dry" or "sticky", it can leave "deposits", especially around the perimeter of the work area.

On an open cell blue Buff and Shine pad, I start with three small dots of polish, and work for no more than four passes on speed 4 or 5 on a PC 7424. I reload with one or two drops depending on the work area.

If that deposit occurs, I just go over it with the moist pad, and remove immediately. It also helps to keep the pad as clean as possible.

I've also found that with some bottles it occurs more than others. Maybe the product was old, or maybe it was mixed weird, but the more recent bottles I've used have been fine.
 
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