ONR perfect for MIchigan Winters

Curious of your procedure as I need to do the wife's badly and really don't want to hot the coin op if I don't need to.

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Got up to a warm 30 here in Maryland, so I figured I’d take advantage and clean the car up a little.


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Do you guys rinseless in the door, hood, trunk jams as well?

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minerigger said:
Do you guys rinseless in the door, hood, trunk jams as well?

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Definitely, works really well in them.

Also to answer your question from earlier, I don’t really change anything in my rinseless procedure in the winter other than maybe spraying a tiny bit more pre soak on the lower panels.


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Hoyt do you have streaking issues. I have always used rinseless but for some reason this year i have been battling streaks. I have switched between McKees and Uber. I soak a bunch of MF in solution, i dont do the one mitt method. Last night i did the wifes dark grey car and same thing with the streaks after i dry the car. I take it to the coin op and just rinse it before hand. I still have some D114 left may try that on mine today.
 
No distilled, i stick with the recommended mix same as warm weather. I was wondering if it is a salt residue issue. It seems like the salt residue is really sticky this year. I could just be losing my mind also.
 
ct18 said:
Hoyt do you have streaking issues. I have always used rinseless but for some reason this year i have been battling streaks. I have switched between McKees and Uber. I soak a bunch of MF in solution, i dont do the one mitt method. Last night i did the wifes dark grey car and same thing with the streaks after i dry the car. I take it to the coin op and just rinse it before hand. I still have some D114 left may try that on mine today.
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I mix 3oz to 4gl. Heavy compared to whats recommended. I have no issues with streaking using Wolfgang or ONR.
 
hoyt66 said:
Neither. I make one pass with my mit, Flip to other side for another pass, rinse , ringout well and re wet in the rinseless. Works well for me


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Just some food for thought here:

I would pre-treat each panel before wiping, this way it breaks down the dirt and brings it to the surface and thus reducing the chance of scratching the paint. At the minimum, have a bucket with a grit guard to clean out that mit too. Have you considered doing the Garry Dean method? I would always pre-treat no matter what though, just me. Also, the Work hydroshot makes cleaning those tires/wheels/wells a breeze in the garage!
 
I'm with Roger. It takes a minute or two to spray my car down with a good coating of N914 or WGURW before heading to the actual rinseless wash, and I can't believe I'm saying this, but I'm not using WGURW that much anymore. It's been straight up N914 or CarPro ECH2O now.
 
Yeah...me too Kev!

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ct18 said:
Hoyt do you have streaking issues. I have always used rinseless but for some reason this year i have been battling streaks. I have switched between McKees and Uber. I soak a bunch of MF in solution, i dont do the one mitt method. Last night i did the wifes dark grey car and same thing with the streaks after i dry the car. I take it to the coin op and just rinse it before hand. I still have some D114 left may try that on mine today.
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The D114 should resolve your streaking issues if they're related to product residue and not soiling left behind on the paint. I can leave 1:256 or 1:128 D114 solution on paint and it flashes off cleanly....I wouldn't recommend doing that, but it was just an observation I made in testing. I do rinseless washes indoors, so maybe that makes a difference.
 
Klasse Act said:
Just some food for thought here:

I would pre-treat each panel before wiping, this way it breaks down the dirt and brings it to the surface and thus reducing the chance of scratching the paint. At the minimum, have a bucket with a grit guard to clean out that mit too. Have you considered doing the Garry Dean method? I would always pre-treat no matter what though, just me. Also, the Work hydroshot makes cleaning those tires/wheels/wells a breeze in the garage!
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Thanks. I used to presoak using a garden sprayer designated for rinseless only. Need to fill that back up, not sure why I got away from it. No good reason that's for sure. I have not tried the gary Dean method. I have watched it and I know it gets solid reviews. I have good results with 2bm (both with grit guard) and a mit. With the Gary Dean method just not a fan of a bucket full of dirty microfibers after the wash process.
 
When you use Ech2o as a rinseless wash what dilution do you have?
And if you use a wash mitt do you prefer a chennel mf or a mf mitt? Or is the Garry Dean method the safer way to go with multible mitts and plush mf towels?
 
The GD method is very safe because you always have a clean towel when you need one. Depending on how dirty your car lis you can 1-2 passes per square, so 8-16 swipes per towel. Once done, put it side and grab a fresh towel that's been soaking in the mix. A side note, when doing waterless or rinseless washes you'll have dirty towels afterwards and unless your doing a load of towels right away you may wanna soak them in a separate bucket until you have enough to do a load. Soaking them in some detergent helps break down the dirt in the towels and thus makes cleaning easier when you do that next load of mf towels.

Also, plush, edgeless towels are the way to go here, no ifs, ands or butts about it. I mean regular mf towels are fine on glass but not for the rest of the car...IMO.

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In winter I use a 1 gallon bleach sprayer with 2 ounces of ONR and warm water to rinse first. I do this twice to really get the wheel wells and undercarriage as much as possible.


After I see how much sand is sitting on the garage floor I never doubt my approach.
 
I do a method similar to Gary Dean as well. Like Roger, I use all 8 quarters of an 1100 GSM towel. I tend to have it pretty wet, but not dripping with solution. It's probably one of those things where using a very clean mitt with a grit guard is just as safe as using the GD method, but the GD method is what I've adopted and what I use. I totally understand the washing requirements, and it's a bit much sometimes. But, I tend to think of rinseless washes as not "environmental" washes but as a washing method that has less water requirement -- at least on the wash side!

SWETM: I use 1 oz of ECH2O in 3 gallons. No streaking issues for me.

Roger also make me up a gallon of ECH2O FrankenDetailer that I have been using as a drying aid of sorts.
 
luvmyrv said:
I have a 31 ft RV that I like to wash after trip, and most times it's dusty but not real dirty, the odd time we get caught in rain and it will have a fair bit of road grime on it. I think I need to switch to trying this on the RV, seems it would be quicker, use a ton less water.
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If you do this I would suggest using the optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax as it has Car Wax in it which helps with UVA and UVB. I use that stuff on everything anymore along with the Car Wax.

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Dave
 
I use this mit. It does not trap contaminants as easily and rinses out well before putting into my clean media

https://www.autogeek.net/gold-plush-wash-mitt.html

I go with 2 buckets and grit guards. One wipe with one side of the mit and the another wipe with the other side. Then dunk in and out of the rinse bucket before dunking in and out of the clean rinseless bucket. This way I am always using a clean mit. For me the key is to having the buckets full enough to get a true "dunking" with your mitt so the contaminants have room to fall. I do need to get back to pre spray though.
 
I purchased OPC, ONR and their car wash soap. A friend of mine is giving me a bottle of Hyper-Seal. The only products I've used from OPT has been OPC. Looking forward to trying it.
 
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