Cleaning Door Jambs

JMak97008 said:
I keep mine in good shape simply by washing them at each car wash...one of my last steps and I just use the wash mitt and then use the mist setting on the nozzle to rinse away without soaking the interior. What I find most annoying in this area is the water spotting. My 300C has a wide sill and water just drips and forms small pools there in the days after a wash. No matter how much I blow out the door area, water just drips down onto the sill.
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That seems like a good process. What year 300C?


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Maxreed241 said:
From your experience, are ech2o and reload superior products for the price? As far as looks, ease of use, and protection left behind?


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I have not test reload yet. And not used to waterless wash or rinseless wash. But Ech2o has suprised me with it's cleaning ability and use on places like just doorjambs and such. For ordinary washes I still uses 2bm. But leaning to a gdm with car soap. Will test with a waterless wash when summer comes. Ech2o I like as it's sio2 in that is a durable protection and give a nice gloss. Reload will be bought in a test bottle to use with Ech2o as a drying aid or qd. One other product that I would like to test is McKees n914. But when living in Sweden I will have to get a list of products that I can't get here and McKees 37 is one of them. Would think that will work great for doorjambs also with a spray sealant afterwards. The doorjambs holds up better and longer than protection on paint.

So others may shaim in on the difference with other products.
 
SWETM said:
I have not test reload yet. And not used to waterless wash or rinseless wash. But Ech2o has suprised me with it's cleaning ability and use on places like just doorjambs and such. For ordinary washes I still uses 2bm. But leaning to a gdm with car soap. Will test with a waterless wash when summer comes. Ech2o I like as it's sio2 in that is a durable protection and give a nice gloss. Reload will be bought in a test bottle to use with Ech2o as a drying aid or qd. One other product that I would like to test is McKees n914. But when living in Sweden I will have to get a list of products that I can't get here and McKees 37 is one of them. Would think that will work great for doorjambs also with a spray sealant afterwards. The doorjambs holds up better and longer than protection on paint.

So others may shaim in on the difference with other products.
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That’s great! Might have to keep an eye out for ech2o. The McKee’s N914 is a great product in any dilution. I use waterless wash for windows and my glasses. Streak free results with short nap side of microfiber. Clay lube is great because it doesn’t hinder the appearance of the paint with polymers and such. Rinseless works well also because it doesn’t leave anything behind, just a true clean.


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I use D108 dilluted 4:1. Let that soak for a minute or two, agitate with a soft detailing brush and then rinse with a pressure washer. My jambs really only need to be "cleaned" maybe once a year, as i routinely pressure wash and wipe them down weekly.
 
APC and brushes and the little wheel woolie for very dirty jambs during prep wash. Then after the polishing is done they are blown out with compressed air. Wiped with something like ONR or M37 N914 to get any remaining dust and a little bit more cleaning. Then Optiseal is applied with MF applicator. Then a quick light buff with a plush MF. It lasts quite a long time in those hardly exposed areas. I recently started applying the Megs FastFinish in the door jambs. Its been a breeze to apply in these areas and I feel it will offer even better protection. These WOWA products are ideal for these areas of the car. A MF applicator can get the sealant down into the nooks and crannies like the seams on the door lips.
 
Really depends how dirty we're talking.


If they're really dirty, like never been touched kind of hammered, I wouldn't think twice about a heavy degreaser and pressure wash. Would likely want to add a little grease the hinges after you're done, though.

If they're not quite that bad but still dirty, some APC and a quick blast.

If they're really not bad (like just some dust etc), quick pass as part of a rinseless or a separate wipedown with a QD and microfiber. Maybe Optimum Car Wax or Optiseal like DBAILEY said.

I like the idea of an aerosol product like Sonax PNS or Megs UFF in there. That's a really slick way to save a LOT of time on the complex contours that most door jambs present. It also is something that doesn't take up much space (one aerosol can vs separate ONRWW bucket or the like) so not a bad tool for the toolbox.
 
DBAILEY said:
APC and brushes and the little wheel woolie for very dirty jambs during prep wash. Then after the polishing is done they are blown out with compressed air. Wiped with something like ONR or M37 N914 to get any remaining dust and a little bit more cleaning. Then Optiseal is applied with MF applicator. Then a quick light buff with a plush MF. It lasts quite a long time in those hardly exposed areas. I recently started applying the Megs FastFinish in the door jambs. Its been a breeze to apply in these areas and I feel it will offer even better protection. These WOWA products are ideal for these areas of the car. A MF applicator can get the sealant down into the nooks and crannies like the seams on the door lips.
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Great tips on a WOWA! I think that I will try Ultima PGP to the door jambs next time. A double application has last a great time for me on the car before.
Thanks :)
 
I hand polished the door jams and what not and I smeared on c quartz uk. I didn't level the coating, just smeared on a thick layer and let it harden. And I just wipe it down with whatever rinseless wash I'm using. I've used wolfgang, onr, ech2o, and n914.
 
DBAILEY said:
APC and brushes and the little wheel woolie for very dirty jambs during prep wash. Then after the polishing is done they are blown out with compressed air. Wiped with something like ONR or M37 N914 to get any remaining dust and a little bit more cleaning. Then Optiseal is applied with MF applicator. Then a quick light buff with a plush MF. It lasts quite a long time in those hardly exposed areas. I recently started applying the Megs FastFinish in the door jambs. Its been a breeze to apply in these areas and I feel it will offer even better protection. These WOWA products are ideal for these areas of the car. A MF applicator can get the sealant down into the nooks and crannies like the seams on the door lips.
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Thanks for the advice. I have some UFF on hand that I could try. Another use for it!


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Mckee's 37 waterless wash has amazing lubricity and leaves behind a high gloss shine and protection in one step. Dresses seals and plastic very well.

Also great under the hood.
 
Maxreed241 said:
I’m not sure if I like V7. I had a 16 oz and it looked great on the paint but after a day or so the shine diminished quickly. I guess that would be a good use for door jambs...


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I used to rely on V7 until I discovered Optimum Car Wax. I have over a gallon left so I use it on jambs, under the hood and wherever else is not normally exposed. It cleans pretty well if the jambs are not caked with crud, too.

ShinyGC said:
I use D108 dilluted 4:1. Let that soak for a minute or two, agitate with a soft detailing brush and then rinse with a pressure washer. My jambs really only need to be "cleaned" maybe once a year, as i routinely pressure wash and wipe them down weekly.
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The key is to keep your jambs clean by regularly wiping them down. If you do this they don't collect gunk and are very easy to make shiny and slick.

Tempest45 said:
Mckee's 37 waterless wash has amazing lubricity and leaves behind a high gloss shine and protection in one step. Dresses seals and plastic very well.

Also great under the hood.
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Basically, any QD, waterless, rinseless works well. APC and window cleaner also works in a pinch, especially if there is greasy build-up there.
 
Optimum Power Clean aka Alien Kleen and a good barrel brush

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