CQuartz Re-coat

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bojans

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In August I coated my 2017 F150 with CQuartz UK, followed all the directions with decontaminating everything, polishing, cleaning with eraser, coating and using reload regularly. I drive in some really nasty conditions, areas where the roads are treated with ice melt mixed with a sand that has a VERY high iron content (rail dust central). As we near spring I am looking for some guidance on how to recover from the winter wear. I can feel that there is contamination on the paint. My thoughts are to use iron X then go over with nanoskin. Does doing this remove the coating? Make it thinner? I am assuming yes and the best course of action is to do these 2 steps and then re-coat. I do not have any swirls or imperfections other than contamination, do I need to do anything other than these 2 steps and wiping with eraser before re-coating?

Thanks in advance
 
The coating is there to protect you from that rail dust. If you are intent on adding to your coating, CarPro Gliss is what you are looking for.
 
Thanks Kirk,

How long does the coating last? How many times can I use a nanoskin like treatment before having to redo the coating?
 
bojans said:
In August I coated my 2017 F150 with CQuartz UK, followed all the directions with decontaminating everything, polishing, cleaning with eraser, coating and using reload regularly. I drive in some really nasty conditions, areas where the roads are treated with ice melt mixed with a sand that has a VERY high iron content (rail dust central). As we near spring I am looking for some guidance on how to recover from the winter wear. I can feel that there is contamination on the paint. My thoughts are to use iron X then go over with nanoskin. Does doing this remove the coating? Make it thinner? I am assuming yes and the best course of action is to do these 2 steps and then re-coat. I do not have any swirls or imperfections other than contamination, do I need to do anything other than these 2 steps and wiping with eraser before re-coating?

Thanks in advance
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You are going to want to chemically decontaminate for sure with that iron remover. Possibly use a tar remover if needed. Then a strong wash with Reset would be a good idea. It may take a few washes to with reset to get back to where the coating was. At this point you can use Gliss as mentioned above, Reload or even use Essence Plus if you need to fill in minor imperfections.

The concern with claying the paint is the risk of marring the painted surface. Thus needing to polish to remove that marring which will remove the coating and then needing to be reapplied.
 
The Guz said:
You are going to want to chemically decontaminate for sure with that iron remover. Possibly use a tar remover if needed. Then a strong wash with Reset would be a good idea. It may take a few washes to with reset to get back to where the coating was. At this point you can use Gliss as mentioned above, Reload or even use Essence Plus if you need to fill in minor imperfections.

The concern with claying the paint is the risk of marring the painted surface. Thus needing to polish to remove that marring which will remove the coating and then needing to be reapplied.
Click to expand...

:iagree: This is the way to go.
 
I'm with Guz. Do a decon wash as soon as possible with ironx and tarx. Then wash with carpro reset and if you want to use a drying aid I would use carpro Ech2o until spring. When the spring comes and you have decide for either Gliss or essence plus or reload. Do a new ironx and tarx decon wash and then use carpro eraser before applying the topper of choice. Since you have a high content of iron contaminants I would apply ironx one more time to the places where the bleeding was the worst. So you can see so you have got rid of the iron contaminants. If it's not bleeding anymore when you start to apply it the second time it's not necessary to do it. If you have a pressure wash it's good to clean rinse the car when rinsing the ironx and tarx away.
 
The Guz said:
You are going to want to chemically decontaminate for sure with that iron remover. Possibly use a tar remover if needed. Then a strong wash with Reset would be a good idea. It may take a few washes to with reset to get back to where the coating was. At this point you can use Gliss as mentioned above, Reload or even use Essence Plus if you need to fill in minor imperfections.

The concern with claying the paint is the risk of marring the painted surface. Thus needing to polish to remove that marring which will remove the coating and then needing to be reapplied.
Click to expand...
I did a bit of this the other day, used a few different steps/washes/products (skipped the iron remover this time as I'll be doing full deal when winter ends) but essentially the same thing. The Gyeon Tar is what really cut to the chase with respect to returning the vertical surfaces to post-winter goodness.

I proceeded incrementally with Gyeon Foam, Gyeon Bathe, road salt emulsifier, Gyeon Foam, Gyeon Bathe, Gyeon Tar, Gyeon Bathe with a lot of pressure rinsing in between. Did it this way to see how each step worked along the way. Everything up to Gyeon Tar got me about 50% there, Gyeon Tar took care of the last 50% of the winter gruel.

I'd imagine the CarPro equivalents would provide equal results.

On another note...i 'refreshed' a vehicle recently that I used Cquartz on in January 2017, using the process The Guz describes above. The Cquartz did really well despite little maintenance and looked great after the decon so I topped it with...


...Gyeon CanCoat. I was kinda going thru a CanCoat phase so figrd "why not?" Not exactly product synergy but it's doing well.
 
The way I deal with my car is I powerwash the whole thing top to bottom, under carriage, rims, etc. Then I apply CarPro Trix all over the still dirty car, and let it sit for about five minutes or so, then it gets rinsed off. I keep a spray bottle of reset and water, mixed two ounces to 50 ounce of water, which is a relatively strong solution and I spray it over the car and let it dwell for five minutes, then I proceed to wash the car. After the car has been washed and rinsed off, I spray the car again with Trix, and after letting it sit for five minutes or so, I use a new mitt that I've saturated with a high concentration of CarPro Iron X Snow Foam and wash it again, this time not for dirt but rather to agitate the fall out remover. Then I rinse off, dry car. The reason I do all of that is because a maintenance wash is fine but I want the cleaners to dwell on whatever is on there and let me actually remove it from the coating.
 
bojans said:
Thanks Kirk,

How long does the coating last? How many times can I use a nanoskin like treatment before having to redo the coating?
Click to expand...

CQuartz advertises 1 year protection on the box. I agree that using the nanoskin probably will mar the coating. You would then have to polish with CarPro Essence Plus coating restorer, then apply Carpro Gliss. i would trust that my coating is protecting me and just wash with Reset- or IronX if you are worried about rail dust.
 
I recently got most of the smoothness to return to my CP 9H by using CarPro TRIX. It needs polished so I am not too worried about hurting the coating, it's got scratches anyways. It brought back a bit of the hydrophobic properties as well. The passenger side(dirty side) felt terrible and I could see iron spots. TRIX removed most of them and I didn't even let it dwell the full 7 minutes, it was starting to dry however.

I know CQuartz is easier to maintain then this POS coating is however.... Good luck!
 
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