Is my tap water PH too high to get a ceramic coating ?

steviekm3

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Hi,

My question is that I was thinking of getting a ceramic coating and am wondering if my tap water will strip it. I have read that high alkalinity can strip the coating. The problem I have is that the area I live in has high alkalinity water. The PH is 8.4. Neutral water is PH of 7.0. To use a PH neutral soap is useless if the soap is added to high alkalinity water.

I have read that ceramic coatings can handle somewhat acidic water but not high alkalinity. Would 8.4 be too high to wash the car with ? I could use PH neutral distilled water but it would be major pain and cost to get enough water to do the job.

My hope is that if the water is not in contact for a long time with the coating all will be okay.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
A pH of 8.4 is within the normal range for tap water (which is 6-8.5). You will be fine with your pH-neutral soap, and with a coating. Please remember that the pH range goes up to 14; 8.4 would be considered mildly alkaline. Most car wash soaps are in the pH 9 range.
 
A pH of 8.4 is within the normal range for tap water (which is 6-8.5). You will be fine with your pH-neutral soap, and with a coating. Please remember that the pH range goes up to 14; 8.4 would be considered mildly alkaline. Most car wash soaps are in the pH 9 range.

Good answer. In fact, water with a pH or 8.4 is effectively neutral. It has no molarity nor is it buffered. Drink that water, bathe in it, do whatever you want with it, it's not going to hurt anything. I'd be far more worried about hard water spots.
 
It would be the least of my worries.


What are you working on?

And welcome to AGO!


:welcome:


Thanks for the welcome ! I just bought a new Yukon with denali trim.

It is crimson red and I want to have it looking great for a long time.

Any ideas are appreciated, maybe don't do the coating ? The low maintenance was the sellng point for me.
 
Thanks for the welcome ! I just bought a new Yukon with denali trim.

It is crimson red and I want to have it looking great for a long time.

Any ideas are appreciated, maybe don't do the coating ? The low maintenance was the sellng point for me.


Coatings easily outlast traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants BUT you still have to wash the vehicle and keep the surface clean and do so in a way that doesn't scratch the finish. This means you cannot take the Yukon to a automatic car wash or even a 100% hand car wash.

The best approach is to get all the proper gear and take ownership of the car wash process yourself.


I keep my wife's car coated and typically use a one-step cleaner/wax on my rig. Her car washes fast, dries fast and the paint always looks glassy!


:)
 
Definitely put a coating on it. If you’ve never done it before there are plenty of “user-friendly” coatings to start out with. Lots of help here on this forum... welcome!

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Coatings easily outlast traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants BUT you still have to wash the vehicle and keep the surface clean and do so in a way that doesn't scratch the finish. This means you cannot take the Yukon to a automatic car wash or even a 100% hand car wash.

The best approach is to get all the proper gear and take ownership of the car wash process yourself.


I keep my wife's car coated and typically use a one-step cleaner/wax on my rig. Her car washes fast, dries fast and the paint always looks glassy!


:)

Hi Mike you say 100% Hand Car Wash - please can you explain, must be missing something thought 100% hand wash was the way to go.

Thanks
 
Coatings easily outlast traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants BUT you still have to wash the vehicle and keep the surface clean and do so in a way that doesn't scratch the finish. This means you cannot take the Yukon to a automatic car wash or even a 100% hand car wash.

The best approach is to get all the proper gear and take ownership of the car wash process yourself.


I keep my wife's car coated and typically use a one-step cleaner/wax on my rig. Her car washes fast, dries fast and the paint always looks glassy!


:)


Yes that is my plan. We also have 3 year old car and it looks like crap after going to car wash constantly.

Am starting hand wash it as well.
 
Hi Mike you say 100% Hand Car Wash - please can you explain, must be missing something thought 100% hand wash was the way to go.

Not to speak for Mike, but I believe what he meant is a commercial "100% hand car wash", because of their use of dirty wash buckes, dirty wash media, dirty drying media, etc.
 
A coating is resistant up to a ph-level of 11-13. So you would be fine in that case. The problem with whatever LSP you chose the water with your ph-level could be easier to mineral deposits and lime scale residue aka different kind of water spots. But as long as you don't wash in direct sun or on hot panels. And don't leave the water to dry on you and start drying with mf towels or blowdry it soon after the last rinse. You will be fine.

Do you have any problems with water spotting in the kitchen and bathroom and other surfaces the water dries on?
 
Any water with a pH above 8.5 is considered "hard" water. At that level you will have difficulty with soap trying to foam up and rinsing would be a problem. There would be a higher concentration of calcium or magnesium carbonate and you would have water spots. Your 8.4 pH water is just fine.
 
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