Buffing pad changing

Going up on edge...


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That's a "normal" wool pad by the way. Seems like there's lots of wool pads coming out that look like soft sheepskin seat covers. These are supposed to be able to be used on both orbitals and wool but from my own experience, if I'm use a rotary just give me a "normal" wool pad. I'm not about being careful I'm about getting in and getting out. By this I mean, if I need to cut I want to CUT, don't need no wimpy pad to slow me down.

:)
 
Well, let me keep it alive but go in a different direction since it's not going anywhere. I'm in a situation where I may only be able to use a rotary. I've got experience with a rotary. I mostly use it for heavy cutting.

The first question I have is will a gold pad and a finishing polish remove holograms left by wool pad and a good medium cut compound??

I've tried jeweling a couple times. Once on a black Toyotas Solara. I've watched your videos and I can put a gorgeous clean gloss on the flat panels no problem. Where I have problems is on the sharper curves. I leave holograms there every time. I haven't seen you do any edges like this in your videos,maybe I just haven't found the right video?? If you have a link to a video that shows this technique I would appreciate a link.

If I do have to go rotary only I'll buy a PE8 again. Will the 3" pads stay flatter in those areas therefore helping eliminate holograms??
 
Ok Mike, how about speed. What speed do you recommend to work at with the various pads.

You mention that for jewelling you will use a finishing pad at 600 RPM.

How about heavy cutting with a wool pad? I have seen videos suggesting going 2500 to 3000 RPM and others saying you should not exceed 1000 RPM.

One of the video I saw from Forensic Detailing, he was explaining that at 1800 RPM, the compounds breaks up really fast so your work time is very limited. Is that specific for one compounds or does it apply to a category of them? How long should you work the product at a given speed?

I wanted to use the rotary more this year, so I did a few trials using foam cutting pads at 1000 RPM... it basically did nothing. I get a lot more correction from my Rupes 21 with microfiber pads. Someone told me that microfiber pads don't work well on rotaries, so my option was to go to wool or speed up the machine... so I just switched to the Bigfoot 21 instead. What would you have done?
 
Calendyr said:
Ok Mike, how about speed. What speed do you recommend to work at with the various pads.

You mention that for jewelling you will use a finishing pad at 600 RPM.

How about heavy cutting with a wool pad? I have seen videos suggesting going 2500 to 3000 RPM and others saying you should not exceed 1000 RPM.

One of the video I saw from Forensic Detailing, he was explaining that at 1800 RPM, the compounds breaks up really fast so your work time is very limited. Is that specific for one compounds or does it apply to a category of them? How long should you work the product at a given speed?

I wanted to use the rotary more this year, so I did a few trials using foam cutting pads at 1000 RPM... it basically did nothing. I get a lot more correction from my Rupes 21 with microfiber pads. Someone told me that microfiber pads don't work well on rotaries, so my option was to go to wool or speed up the machine... so I just switched to the Bigfoot 21 instead. What would you have done?
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Are you using wool cutting pads??
 
Mike Phillips said:
Continued...



Here's a video we made back in 2012...

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It shows how to use the 10 @ 10 technique and then how to modify this technique to pick up a bead of product from multiple directions.





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:)
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This is one of my favorites!

It's so efficient, and "clean" .
 
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