IronX, et al - is it the real deal or just a fad?

H

hooked

New member
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
152
Reaction score
0
Ok folks. I don’t mean to step on any toes but I have to ask.

I got into detailing when I bought my BLACK 2006 Honda Accord and back then you clayed a new car to remove the rail dust and other embedded contaminants from your paint. And you clayed older paint to remove accumulated contaminants.

i just got a new car and I started to research what’s new in the detailing world and now I’m seeing you need to use IronX or some other iron remover to remove ferrous particles from paint. And this is in addition to the trusty clay bar. Is this really a revolutionary development or is it a new toy to play with? Seeing the purple streaks are cool, after all. ;)

PS. I’m not trolling. I am genuinely curious. I’ll add it to my process if the verdict is that it’s a necessity.
 
hooked said:
Ok folks. I don’t mean to step on any toes but I have to ask.

I got into detailing when I bought my BLACK 2006 Honda Accord and back then you clayed a new car to remove the rail dust and other embedded contaminants from your paint. And you clayed older paint to remove accumulated contaminants.

i just got a new car and I started to research what’s new in the detailing world and now I’m seeing you need to use IronX or some other iron remover to remove ferrous particles from paint. And this is in addition to the trusty clay bar. Is this really a revolutionary development or is it a new toy to play with? Seeing the purple streaks are cool, after all. ;)

PS. I’m not trolling. I am genuinely curious. I’ll add it to my process if the verdict is that it’s a necessity.
Click to expand...
I dont use it..i clay before a polish or wax...im sure it works great but my paint is 18 years old and my system has gotten me this far

Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I wouldn't call it a necessity. A lot of it is hype and "bleeding". Not that people haven't done tests by claying and then using an iron-eater and proving that clay isn't getting it all off. But a lot of it depends on what you get on your paint based on where you are, how/where you drive, etc. Plus they all smell pretty bad, and it's a clingy smell that doesn't go away quickly or easily.
 
I look at it as a helper to the claying. And as I understand it it's not the iron partical it self the iron remover desolve. It's the oxidized part of the iron partical that a iron remover desolve. So when you get a iron partical lodge in the clearcoat you can get it out easy with a clay if doing it directly when it's happens. The iron particals oxidize fast and have you seen rust building up it's the same as. And the problem is the that the oxidized iron particals takes bigger place and gets the iron partical to expand and lodge in harder in the clearcoat. If you where to clay it out you will rip it out of the clearcoat. And sometimes the clay is not strong enough to do so but it's only shave the iron partical off leveled with the clearcoat. If you use an effective iron remover to desolve the oxidized part of the iron partical first. Since it has gotten bigger in the clearcoat the iron partical useally just rinses off or is wiped out with a mf towel if you prefer that method. But even if you control with a second application of the iron remover and it's not bleeding. It's not certain you got the iron partical out of the clearcoat. Iron particals has very jagged edges and there for it can be hard to get off any material it getting on. But often it's those edges that first start to oxidize and when desolved they are easier to dislodge from the clearcoat. So the damage an oxidized iron partical can do if you let it sit in the clearcoat or when you claying and rip it out of it. It's a safer option to use an iron remover to help me get the iron particals out of the clearcoat. Is it necessary to do so. I don't know and it's been fine before. But who knows in the longrun if it could get some spots where the iron partical has done enough damage to penetrate the paint down to the metall and you get a rust spot. Then you have the visual that is noticed with a little spot of rust. That's why I use iron remover to help me get the iron particals out as safe as possible. And there is a difference between the effectiveness from them. The Carpro IronX is known for be one of the most effective to desolve the oxidized iron particals fast and thoroughly. To get them out of the clearcoat easier with one application. And the clay will get it out when I clay after the use of the iron remover.

/Tony
 
I used iron-x on my 6 month old 2018 and saw literally nothing happen. No purple, no change. I guess that means I don't have any iron contamination.

It does smell like death but if you use it outside it's fine.
 
Iron X I use as needed.

I do agree that it aids in the entire decontamination process as a whole—meaning claying goes smoother.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
1500canoe said:
I used iron-x on my 6 month old 2018 and saw literally nothing happen. No purple, no change. I guess that means I don't have any iron contamination.
Click to expand...

I remember when I first got the Sonax FE wheel cleaner, all these forum pictures with red wheels...I sprayed it on my wheels...nothing...NOTHING. I figured it was because my car had ceramic brake pads. Of course I later learned that different cars throw off different amounts of iron depending on the pad/rotor/etc.

Plus I also think frequent washing (of the paint and wheels) and good LSP reduces the amount of contamination of any kind, including iron, from bonding to the paint. In the same way, at least for me, claying almost seems like a waste of time, for a well-maintained car--seems like nothing comes off.
 
I like to think Iron X (or equivalents) penetrate a bit more "sub" surface and help dissolve metallic bits that have lodged themselves deeper into the paint.

Claying might shear of metallic bits leaving something to rust later below the surface.
 
I look at it as an aid on certain situations, if you have a car with Brembo or other high performance pads then yes it will be a time saver. Cars like BMW's put out a lot of heavy dust and when neglected an iron remover is a necessity not only on the wheels but also the adjacent panels that will accumulate brake dust. The other benefit is that you'll induce less marring compared to a clay bar/mit, I've found that usually I can get just about perfect results with a iron/clay treatment compared to using clay 2-3 times on a panel which means I'm rubbthe paint less. Try claying black wheels often and you'll see a benefit to an iron remover
 
Take an old rusty pipe or misc metal that is corroding, test it out and you will see that it indeed does what it says.

I use it for two reasons:

  • Prior to physically decontaminating the paint, I want to remove as much particulates as I can as to reduce any additional marring or damage to the paint.
  • Prior to polishing I think it's best to remove as much of the contaminants prior to grinding them into the paint as I polish thus reducing the likelihood of micro marring. Removing them also prolongs the life of my pads.

I don't see it as a fad or hype as again, I've used it to remove rust on other items besides car related parts and surfaces.
 
Paul A. said:
I like to think Iron X (or equivalents) penetrate a bit more "sub" surface and help dissolve metallic bits that have lodged themselves deeper into the paint.

Claying might shear of metallic bits leaving something to rust later below the surface.
Click to expand...

^^ this. Key IMO to helping reduce the likelihood of the clear coat being compromised as the particles further corrode.
 
It is especially useful on wheels to remove brake dust. In such applications, two - three times a year will greatly improve the appearance of your wheels - IME.

ScottH
 
It’s a cheap insurance policy if you intend on keep your car for a long time. If you are leasing, not necessary.
 
I would think it is a must have if you are doing a ceramic coating or such because you don't want to trap contamination between the coating and the painted surface and llike Vobro said painted wheels,,,I'd buy some just for that :D

If you are just an average ordinary guy who just details his car on the weekends I think using just clay is fine.
I mainly do detail for retail used cars so I haven't found that must have use for it since both foundrys in town or now closed.
 
I just bought a new car (Kia Niro) and it’s going to be a daily driver. The detailing fever has died down so I know I’m not going to be out there every weekend cleaning it. I do want to do a good first detailing on it to start its life right. I’m not even sure that the dealership hack guy used soap to prep the car for delivery. I think I’m going to get some IronX mainly out of curiosity. And my other car is due for some love too so I don’t want to make it jealous. ;)

Thnaks for your input everyone.
 
Like Rimcarty said its cheap insurance. Anytime we can remove contaminants without mechanical action it is a good thing. Just used it on the wife's garage queen with year old Wolfgang coating, ended up with a puddle of red around the car so was working.
Maybe the placebo affect but did seem to bring the coating on the side panels back to life.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I wouldn't call it a necessity. A lot of it is hype and "bleeding". Not that people haven't done tests by claying and then using an iron-eater and proving that clay isn't getting it all off.
Click to expand...
To me it seems evident, that the primary use of Iron X would be NOT to use it with claying, but when and where claying is not an option, because you won't or can't polish the paint, or where you can't even reach with a clay - like inner wheel parts or around nuts and bolts. So, even if we agree that Iron X possibly won't remove anything (or just in negligible amounts) that a clay won't, it might still make sense to use this product in other situations, for other purposes.
 
There are two types of contamination, above bonded contaminants (pollen, tar, road gunk, etc..) and industrial fall out, ferrous metal particles that are bonded to the clear coat.
The first type is handled by clay and is referred to as "mechanical decontamination." The second type is handled by a dedicated iron remover and is referred to as "chemical decontamination."

The first thing one must understand is the static charge that occurs so that paint will be attracted to the sheet metal. Google search this topic and add Mike Phillips to the search, as there are several articles and topics Mike has written about this subject.

The second concept is: Clear-coat is thin. Maintenance and proper care will provide a long lasting life for the clear-coat . Not maintaining it will result in clear-coat failure. Again, search clear-coat is thin, add Mike Phillips' name to the search and again, articles will appear.

Lastly, to learn all about how and why to chemically decontaminate paint, Mike covers this amazingly well in his book The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine, starting on page 11, "Paint Decontamination."

Any corrosive substances like acid
rain or contaminants containing iron
including iron particles from things
like brake dust and rail dust penetrate
into the paint and cannot always be
completely removed by washing or
claying. It’s also possible for some
iron particles to be removed by clay.
However, they can embed into the clay
itself and inflict swirls and scratches
into the paint as the clay is rubbed over
the surface
Click to expand...

By using a dedicated product to remove contaminants in/on the clear-coat, this allows further products in the detail process, such as polishing, etc, to work more effectively. In such you're ensuring a large percentage of the removal of both above bonded contaminants (by claying) and chemical contaminants by using an iron remover. On a dark colored vehicle Iron-X doesn't always appear to be working, but on a white, silver or lighter vehicle, we refer to this as "bleeding like a stuck pig."

In this photo, this is a brand new 2016 Mustang, it was purchased just days before getting a complete detail.

NDMyMDBENDRBMDdEQzFGODRDQUY6NjdiNzI5ZDE5OTQ0MDI0MGQxMjc2YTZlODdiMjM4OTE=



In this photo, here is Iron-X working on the back of a white GMC Acadia

NDMyMDBENDRBMDdEQzFGODRDQUY6Njk0YjFlZDM4MDgwZjZlNmE5Y2I2N2ViMTY4NmVmNGE=



In this photo,the hood of this Lincoln Town Car is bleeding like a stuck pig!

NDMyMDBENDRBMDdEQzFGODRDQUY6OGEyYTUwNmU2ODc2MGYyNDQzYjk1ZjIwOTllMjc0YjU=


All the products used during a detail process concatenate upon themselves. I got a call from a prospective customer who out of the blue asked "now, I've heard of clay... do you use clay?" I laughed and first equated that to asking a handy man if he or she will be using a screw driver while fixing my house. They are all tools in the tool box. Whether you opt to use them or not is your choice. There are no hard and fast rules, just tried and true ways. :)

Hope all this helps! :)
 
hooked said:
Is this really a revolutionary development
or is it a new toy to play with?

Seeing the purple streaks are cool, after all. ;)
Click to expand...
•Chemical decontamination is not a
revolutionary development: it is
a process that’s been going on for
a quite a long time now—ValuGard’s
“A,B,C”; and, Finish Kare’s “1,2,3”
Neutralization Systems are a few
that come to mind.

•Many OEM manufacturers have chemical
paint decontamination as part and parcel
of the dealerships’ PDI and their own paint
warranty programs.

***********************************

The main differences between IronX, and
its ilk; and those above listed systems;
can, basically, be boiled down to:

-IronX, et al:
1.) you can see iron contaminates being
dissolved (the bleeding effects/purple
streaking)
2.) they’re One-Step (self-contained) systems
3.) “That smell of death surrounds you”

-Valugard; FK; et al:
1.) Can’t see the iron contaminates being
dissolved (no bleeding/purple streaks)
2.) basically are Three-Step systems
3.) “The smell of death”? Not so much.


IMO:
Making either type of chemical decontamination
system an integral part of a vehicle’s overall de-
tailing processes is not one to be overlooked. Or
offhandedly dismissed.


Bob
 
Before the IronX products that bleeding with the red/purple. You had as above noticed chemical that did not show the oxidized iron particals desolveing. And that is still used today by many. For an example Meguiars Wheel Brightener D140 is desolving the oxidized iron particals just as effective as a bleeding wheel cleaner. So you used acidic based products to handle this back in the day. They where mostly based on oxalic acid. And many cheaper acid wheel cleaners is so today too. The oxalic acid you can buy in powder form and mix with water and gets you a very cheap iron remover. Only problem with it is you don't see the desolving action happens. It's much used on boats to clean the water line and also effective to desolve the oxidized gelcoat. And so was it on the single stage paint too. Especially noticed on the white single stage paint that got that yellowing happened on it. It where a lot of work but you can revive it with some elbow grease and patience. And as I understand it it's still gets a acidic reaction when the bleeding iron remover desolve it. The liquid it self is ph neutral but the bleeding reaction is acidic as I have understand it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top