spotting under brand new black car paint

It's not that different here. The manufacturer reimburses the dealer for the warranty work. We've been through some ups and downs with that, at one time GM, for example, paid the dealer a fixed rate, regardless of what the dealer labor rate was. If the dealer labor rate was higher than what GM was paying, the dealers would tell customers things weren't covered by warranty. After a while GM started getting a bad rep and they started reimbursing at the dealer labor rate.

As far as the cars not sitting on the lot...it used to be like that here, you ordered a car from the factory if you were a car guy, to get just what you wanted. But when imported cars began to become really popular here in the late 70's and early 80's, it of course wasn't feasible to order a car from the factory, so those dealers began to stock large numbers of cars on their lots, so they would have a large selection of colors and options. After a while the US companies started to streamline the multiple options into just a few option groups, because customers had become used to the idea of whatever they needed "being on the lot", so even the dealers for US brands typically have very large inventories and it's less common to order a car. At least that's the way it looks from where I sit.

While I agree with you, I think this is beginning to change.

I took the lot/driver job for my small dealership on 6/11 of this year, and I have been on at least 50-60 swaps from New Hampshire, to Maryland and points closer.

I am also seeing more factory orders coming off of the trucks. 99% of these are top of the line vehicles. Just my experience at my job.
 
While I agree with you, I think this is beginning to change.

I took the lot/driver job for my small dealership on 6/11 of this year, and I have been on at least 50-60 swaps from New Hampshire, to Maryland and points closer.

I am also seeing more factory orders coming off of the trucks. 99% of these are top of the line vehicles. Just my experience at my job.

I still try to order my cars...but last one I bought was a leftover, so it's been a while. But you're also making my point--don't the dealers do swaps so they don't have to order a car for the customer?
 
I still try to order my cars...but last one I bought was a leftover, so it's been a while. But you're also making my point--don't the dealers do swaps so they don't have to order a car for the customer?

Yes, you are right.

My point was the customer wanting something else than was on the lot, but a swap for what they want makes the dealer a bit more coins.

I received 7 new F-150's just today off of the haulers. 3 were factory ordered (Sold).
 
My point was the customer wanting something else than was on the lot, but a swap for what they want makes the dealer a bit more coins.

I think we're in the same place...I'm just not as up to date as you--back some years ago, before everything was so networked, the individual dealers had to keep a larger inventory, but now it's easier for them to locate a car at another dealer, so they can leverage that to not keep as many cars on hand, although I'm sure the larger dealers try to because it's in their interest to be the place that other dealers need to get a car from.
 
Halogen lamp keeping the surface around 160-170 deg F for 3 hours did nothing to the spots.
 
It does look similar to moisture trapped in the clear coat to me. This happens from time to time while the vehicle is in transit with the plastic wrap on it- being exposed to multiple temperature differences while on the road can cause the spots to appear. I have seen vehicles with entire roofs or hoods that were milky looking once the plastic wrap was pulled off. Best solution is to use a heat gun and and slowly work it out. Once it is out it is out- there is no worry of premature failure or delamination of the paint. In my shop we have tried using the infrared lamps but they tend to fail to get it out- heat gun is where it is at.
 
I will try that. Any idea what you were getting the surface temperature up to or what heat range you were using on the heat gun? How long did you have to pass it over the surface? I'm just wondering-if it is going to work, how long until I should see improvement before I say it's not working or not.
 
It's steel front fender. I will definitely be extremely careful which is why I asked my above questions.
 
I'll defer to JKDesign, but I don't think that's moisture--even he said "milky" and that's what I've seen in other instances of moisture trapping, a more uniform defect (here's an active thread on the other forum right now: Interesting Paint Defect ).

It looks to me more like some sort of solvent trapping...which of course might be cured in the same way...I'd just be worried about those "bubbles" "popping" if you heat them up. I appreciate your perseverance and caution, though.
 
Sorry for the delay. To answer the question. I don't know first hand, but have been told that its problem solved at that point. we have dealt with a dozen or so of them in the last 5 years and I have never heard of any of them coming up again.
I appreciate the responses everyone!

Natron-once the heat has evaporated the "moisture", is the clearcoat not adhered to the underlying basecoat? My concern is even after applying heat, there is still a missing cross link between clearcoat and basecoat. What did you see after the heat was applied? Total correction?
 
If this is "moisture" or solvent under the clear, where is the substance going when heated with a heat gun? Is clear coat permeable?
 
If this is "moisture" or solvent under the clear, where is the substance going when heated with a heat gun? Is clear coat permeable?

Solvents out gas through the clear.

Colours and clearcoats are liquid because they are mixed with a catalyst enabling them to be applied and bond to a surface. In this case the catalyst is a solvent.

If the solvent remains, the paint stays wet. Luckily, and by design, the solvent evaporates though the paint enabling the hardening process.

For whatever reason, usually due to poor prep (like every problem in the world), it may be the case that the solvent from the paint has remained trapped under the hardened clearcoat. By heating the clearcoat you’re slightly changing its state to enable the gasses to pass through and hopefully remove the defect.

Works better on a self-healing clear than a reg one.
 
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