Badges, Emblems, and Decals

[snowracer21]

I apologize if this has been addressed before, I’m sure it has but I couldn’t find much on the topic.

Many newer vehicles are plastered with manufacturer badging/emblems and decals. How do you deal with these during a one step detail? I specifically mention a one step because on a high-end concourse detail, you’d likely remove the badges, polish, and then reapply w/ new adhesive.

Taking the time to do that on a one step detail (more production detail oriented) would be cost prohibitive. On a recent job, the F150 I was applying a one step correction/polish to, had a large 4x4 decal on the bed side. I taped off the entire thing, and then went in and polished by hand all the small sections of paint where the decal didn’t cover. This was still kind of a PITA because the small paint sections didn’t look as good as the machine polished sections.

So, do you handle these obstacles, and/or how would you handle the below examples:

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[LSNAutoDetailingLSNAutoDetailing is verified member.]

Unless your doing something that incredibly dusts such as "105" there is no need to do anything. If you want to be on the safe side, tape them off with 3M automotive painters tape.

The reason I tape off is: a.) you don't catch your pad on it and fray the pad, and b.) you don't turn the inner bits of the emblem into a dust pit or filled with product. Otherwise a DA will not harm *new* factory badging (unless installed on a Friday afternoon). Older classic cars, or vintage, I would tape off and use "rule of thumb." Meaning, I'd measure the width of my thumb from the badge, tape that area off and not go near it.

For graphics: Most graphics are fine to polish over, except mat finished graphics. And when I say "fine," I mean, if your da glances it... I wouldn't do 6-8 section passes over an area with graphics as you'd burn them off. The best thing to do is tape off, as you mention you're doing and apply the "rule of thumb" as mentioned above.

For graphics, you can lay down 1/4" 3M pin stripe automotive tape (for doing line work) and use that as your guide to stay away from those areas.


These were all taped off:

 

[snowracer21]

snip

I guess the point I was trying to get at, is achieving that 100% detailed look. Take the truck pictured below, but imagine the paint is black. The client just wants a one-step polish, even though his black Silverado looks like it's seen way too many automatic car washes. Even using just a high quality AIO would achieve huge before/after results.

The "SILVERADO" emblems on the door have a decent amount of paint between each letter...my assumption is, the paint left unpolished between each letter would stick out like a sore thumb against the polished black paint on the door. So, my question is...do you tape off each individual letter, and pull out a 1" polisher and spend 30 minutes+ on each door, on a 1 step detail job?

 

[LSNAutoDetailingLSNAutoDetailing is verified member.]

I guess the point I was trying to get at, is achieving that 100% detailed look. Take the truck pictured below, but imagine the paint is black. The client just wants a one-step polish, even though his black Silverado looks like it's seen way too many automatic car washes. Even using just a high quality AIO would achieve huge before/after results.

The "SILVERADO" emblems on the door have a decent amount of paint between each letter...my assumption is, the paint left unpolished between each letter would stick out like a sore thumb against the polished black paint on the door. So, my question is...do you tape off each individual letter, and pull out a 1" polisher and spend 30 minutes+ on each door, on a 1 step detail job?

If you have non-thin pads, I.e Rupes or CCS, you could probably use an “edging” technique to get between the letters. Any thing beyond that with expectation of “x” percent of correction between the letters will have to be billable by the hour.


Please excuse the typos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dr Oldz]

There is a few way. First, I don’t like taking badges off.

There are small machines such as the Rupes Nano. You can hand polish. Detail sticks of various shapes sizes can also work wonders. Even Q-tips can work.