New Black Yukon and the usual stuff

Mydnyghte

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Just brought home a new black Yukon and am considering putting a ceramic coating on it. It's the brand new family hauler, and we've got three small children, so I want to do everything I can to keep it looking good.
I've been reading just a bit on the coatings and want to take advantage of the sale today, so I wanted to get some recommendations. I'm leaning towards CQuartz because they've been around for quite awhile and have lots of good feedback, and was eyeballing the UK edition.
Also, what are some recommendations for interior protectants? I'd like to give the inside a fighting chance against the hazards of our kids, which is why the floor mats are coming out and floor liners are going in. However, I'd like something for the rest of the surface area as well. Thanks for any input folks!

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As a beginner, you can't go wrong with CQuartz, especially with the UK version, which can be applied even at relatively low temperatures (obviously not close to or below freezing point though), and is also very forgiving regarding buffing times. It's also less expensive than most newer coatings, while still providing a comparable - if not better - gloss and durability.

One thing to note is, that when applying a ceramic coating, it always makes sense to at least lightly polish the car (preferably with a machine polisher), in order to minimize the amount of surface defects that get locked in, to maximize the gloss, and to remove any lingering protectants (sealants, waxes) that might still be on paint and might prevent the coating from bonding properly.

As for the interior protection: CarPro also has great ceramic protectants for both leather and fabric seats (CarPro Fabric / Leather coat), and CarPro Perl (diluted at least 1:3) is also a very good dressing for all plastic interior trims.

Of course other manufacturers also have similar products that perform comparably well - I'm just mentioning CarPro products to stay "in the family", if you're already planning to apply CQUK to the paint.
 
I'm not a professional here, but I have used CQuartz as my first step into coatings and have been very happy with it. It was relatively easy to apply and buff. The end properties are good as well. The car stays a lot cleaner than it did with just a sealant. Keep in mind it isn't the slickest feeling or the craziest beading. And also follow the recommendation of polishing the car before applying and using something like Carpro Eraser before applying.

My other car I went with Gyeon Syncro. It feels slicker and beads better. It was more of a pain in the butt to apply, 3 coats. 2 of one item and 1 of the other with delay in between. The actual application is easy, but the time requirement was a pain.

I definitely recommend doing a coating if you're care about your cars appearance and have limited opportunity to keep up with it. Not saying you can neglect your car after doing it, but the car stays a lot nicer when life gets in the way.
 
I'm good with it being beginner friendly! I've got a whole compliment of Wolfgang products, amongst others...from detailing my Mustang over the years, but have never messed with ceramic coatings. And I had looked into Wolfgang coating, but from what I've read it doesn't quite have the shine others do. Which is surprising, considering how amazing Fuzion looks on black.
I declined having a detail done by the dealer as I have seen first-hand what happens when a guy running a buffer doesn't know what to do. And with it being brand new, I don't want to risk having a marred palette to start with. I figured anyhow I would need to do a light polish just to ensure a clean slate.
Down the road I wouldn't be opposed to trying something more advanced, but right now I want to get something on there as I do not have a whole lot of free time. So if this will go on easy, as compared to some, and last a long time then I am all for it. This is the first brand new vehicle my wife and I have bought, so I want to make it look its best as long as possible.
I'm on board with keeping it all in the family, as I have done with Wolfgang, so would any of those products work well for prep or should I just pick up some Eraser just to be on the safe side?
I appreciate the info fellas!

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For the interior invest in some good seat covers, nothing else will protect an interior from kids and the accidents that happen.
 
Sear covers and rubber matts? Ahh say it ain’t so... Who’s going to be able to actually enjoy the vehicle? The next owner?

You only live once. Spray some Scotchgard on the carpets & matts and vacuum the interior once per week. Wipedown with quik interior detailer and you should be fine. But don’t kill it with rubber matts and seat covers.
 
Previous owner had rubber matts.

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1st thing I did was throw them in the trash. They never protect anything..

All my customers who have rubber matts just create more work when it comes time to vacuum their interior.. And to top it off the carpets underneath are always full of sand and stuff to clean up anyways, it’s like double the work.

This is the only way I roll. I have 2 cars with light carpet and they both stay clean.

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I tried the seat cover idea on Momma, and she put that right to sleep. Which honestly, i'm not a big fan of either because I do love how the seats look. We are going to get some seat protectors for the car seats though. And I got some free Weathertech-style floor liners from the dealer, and we compromised that they would only go in the back; she likes having carpet under her feet when we travel. Which again, i'm okay with, because all that covers a good portion of what will be tread upon daily.
The seats will definitely be getting a coat of something though. The dash and trim as well, but that's not priority like the rest.

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All rubber mats are designed to do is make you realize how much better life is without them. Like cats.

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so would any of those products work well for prep or should I just pick up some Eraser just to be on the safe side?
Eraser is pretty expensive, but of course it fits the purpose. And if used and applied with common sense, a 500 ml bottle should be more than enough to prep even a large SUV before coating, probably even twice. That said, if you don't have money to throw away, then I suggest you just buy some isopropyl alcohol and make your own 20-30% IPA solution, which will be more than enough for the cleaning of the paint surface right before application of the ceramic coating. It will not smell as good as does Eraser, but it will cost you only cents instead of dollars for the same amount of cleaning, and you will be not compelled to "cheap out" on the amount applied when removing stuff, which in turn might be important to get a really clean surface and to not mar the freshly polished surface with the wiping.

Also consider getting Reflect as the polishing compound, because it contains no fillers, which makes removal a lot simpler, in chemical terms, too. Make sure to work it long enough (as it's a diminishing compound), and you'll get an impressively reflective and glossy finish already on its own. Some might recommend Essence, which according to CarPro can be used as some kind of primer before ceramic coating and does not need to be fully removed before the application of the latter. But in my opinion it's mostly just for lazy people and has its own right only if you don't actually want to follow up with a full-blown ceramic coating, in which case it will save you the time and effort of applying a SiO2 wax or sealant in a separate step. But otherwise it will just diminish the quality and durability of the end result.
 
Eraser is pretty expensive, but of course it fits the purpose. And if used and applied with common sense, a 500 ml bottle should be more than enough to prep even a large SUV before coating, probably even twice. That said, if you don't have money to throw away, then I suggest you just buy some isopropyl alcohol and make your own 20-30% IPA solution, which will be more than enough for the cleaning of the paint surface right before application of the ceramic coating. It will not smell as good as does Eraser, but it will cost you only cents instead of dollars for the same amount of cleaning, and you will be not compelled to "cheap out" on the amount applied when removing stuff, which in turn might be important to get a really clean surface and to not mar the freshly polished surface with the wiping.

Also consider getting Reflect as the polishing compound, because it contains no fillers, which makes removal a lot simpler, in chemical terms, too. Make sure to work it long enough (as it's a diminishing compound), and you'll get an impressively reflective and glossy finish already on its own. Some might recommend Essence, which according to CarPro can be used as some kind of primer before ceramic coating and does not need to be fully removed before the application of the latter. But in my opinion it's mostly just for lazy people and has its own right only if you don't actually want to follow up with a full-blown ceramic coating, in which case it will save you the time and effort of applying a SiO2 wax or sealant in a separate step. But otherwise it will just diminish the quality and durability of the end result.

The whole reason for useing Carpro Essence is to get a greater look and a longer longevity of the Carpro Classic and CQUK coatings. As the name glossenhancing primer give a hint on. Why would it be a diminish quality and durability if used as a primer for carpros cquarts coatings?
 
The whole reason for useing Carpro Essence is to get a greater look and a longer longevity of the Carpro Classic and CQUK coatings.
It's not. Essence is simply a polish with SiO2 fillers in it. The latter makes it "compatible" with SiO2 coatings (which wouldn't be true for polishes with oil-based fillers), but the "whole reason being .. " thing is more than a far fetched stretch. Regardless of this information being populated on forums, and also by resellers, who are obviously interested in selling more stuff to you and more frequently than you'd need them otherwise, and make wild claims about the products they're selling.

As the name glossenhancing primer give a hint on.
That's not the name of the product. The name is "Essence" nothing more and nothing less. The word "primer" is not even on the main label. Only "Xtreme Gloss Enhancer" is there, besides "Hybrid Energy" and "Versatile use" - which obviously say actually nothing.

Why would it be a diminish quality and durability if used as a primer for carpros cquarts coatings?
For one, because with fillers also being there in the compound it means that the finish will be less perfect, because of less abrasives/volume, and because the fillers hiding the possible defects (and not even letting the abrasives get there to correct them). And the second thing is, that those SiO2 fillers (now contaminated with partially diminished abrasive particles anyway) are just not as durable as is CQUK itself - and because they laying under the latter means that they will start to affect the actual coating and diminish the appearance and properties of that sooner, than if there would be only CQUK directly binding to the raw and fully corrected paint.

----

As said, using Essence only makes sense when one is working under time-constraints, and doesn't have time for or doesn't want to do (for whatever reason) a full and proper correction. Because then it makes sense to use a polish with fillers in it, that will diminish (now using this word in a positive sense) the defects, the still remaining swirls and co., by fully or partially filling them. In this case the result will be indeed better, the level of apparent gloss higher than if one would have just used a polish with no fillers in it for the same time, which would obviously have left all the remaining defects in the clear coat fully exposed. In this case and sense such a "primer" might even enhance the properties of an added full-blown coating, because those are also affected by surface defects - and the less of these remain exposed, the better the results.

But if one is doing a full correction and/or working on a essentially flawless paint to begin with, then it just makes no sense to put anything in between the paint and the actual full-blown coating, because it will definitely not help the binding, and definitely will not enhance the gloss either. The only thing it will do is contaminate the binding surface with remnants of abrasives and carrier compounds that don't belong there in the first place and are left in an unknown state anyway.
 
It's not. Essence is simply a polish with SiO2 fillers in it. The latter makes it "compatible" with SiO2 coatings (which wouldn't be true for polishes with oil-based fillers), but the "whole reason being .. " thing is more than a far fetched stretch. Regardless of this information being populated on forums, and also by resellers, who are obviously interested in selling more stuff to you and more frequently than you'd need them otherwise, and make wild claims about the products they're selling.


That's not the name of the product. The name is "Essence" nothing more and nothing less. The word "primer" is not even on the main label. Only "Xtreme Gloss Enhancer" is there, besides "Hybrid Energy" and "Versatile use" - which obviously say actually nothing.


For one, because with fillers also being there in the compound it means that the finish will be less perfect, because of less abrasives/volume, and because the fillers hiding the possible defects (and not even letting the abrasives get there to correct them). And the second thing is, that those SiO2 fillers (now contaminated with partially diminished abrasive particles anyway) are just not as durable as is CQUK itself - and because they laying under the latter means that they will start to affect the actual coating and diminish the appearance and properties of that sooner, than if there would be only CQUK directly binding to the raw and fully corrected paint.

----

As said, using Essence only makes sense when one is working under time-constraints, and doesn't have time for or doesn't want to do (for whatever reason) a full and proper correction. Because then it makes sense to use a polish with fillers in it, that will diminish (now using this word in a positive sense) the defects, the still remaining swirls and co., by fully or partially filling them. In this case the result will be indeed better, the level of apparent gloss higher than if one would have just used a polish with no fillers in it for the same time, which would obviously have left all the remaining defects in the clear coat fully exposed. In this case and sense such a "primer" might even enhance the properties of an added full-blown coating, because those are also affected by surface defects - and the less of these remain exposed, the better the results.

But if one is doing a full correction and/or working on a essentially flawless paint to begin with, then it just makes no sense to put anything in between the paint and the actual full-blown coating, because it will definitely not help the binding, and definitely will not enhance the gloss either. The only thing it will do is contaminate the binding surface with remnants of abrasives and carrier compounds that don't belong there in the first place and are left in an unknown state anyway.

So the glossenhancer resins in Essence is not working on a corrected paint or flawless paint to begin with? Is they at a lower gloss than the clearcoat is. And the Sio2 protection in Essence is not working with the Sio2 in cquartz coatings? I thought they where working in synergy to ad to the longevity of cquartz coatings. And you say that the abrasives don't wipes of or that the polishing oils do not evaporate when leaved over night?
On the newer bottles it's not named as a primer. But think they where in the beginning. And also the versitale use I think has come on the bottles later on. I have only seen it been marketed as a extreme glossenhancing primer for carpros cquarts coatings. But it can be used with other protection products from Carpro too. And think that the filling ability is working on a perfect finish too. As it fills and smooth the finish more than the clearcoat it self is capable of. But hey how knows I could be very wrong about how Essence works. I'm about to pick up a bottle that waits on me at the post office. And will test it out when I get a car suited to use it on.
 
I'm good with it being beginner friendly! I've got a whole compliment of Wolfgang products, amongst others...from detailing my Mustang over the years, but have never messed with ceramic coatings. And I had looked into Wolfgang coating, but from what I've read it doesn't quite have the shine others do. Which is surprising, considering how amazing Fuzion looks on black.
I declined having a detail done by the dealer as I have seen first-hand what happens when a guy running a buffer doesn't know what to do. And with it being brand new, I don't want to risk having a marred palette to start with. I figured anyhow I would need to do a light polish just to ensure a clean slate.
Down the road I wouldn't be opposed to trying something more advanced, but right now I want to get something on there as I do not have a whole lot of free time. So if this will go on easy, as compared to some, and last a long time then I am all for it. This is the first brand new vehicle my wife and I have bought, so I want to make it look its best as long as possible.
I'm on board with keeping it all in the family, as I have done with Wolfgang, so would any of those products work well for prep or should I just pick up some Eraser just to be on the safe side?
I appreciate the info fellas!

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You need to wipe the car with some cleaner to get rid of the polishing oils. Either IPA or something similar to Eraser. I would think any brands version of this form of prep would be fine.
Same on the polish side. any good polish will be work as long as you're not using an all in one wax.

You can try CarPro Essence, I haven't. maybe I would next time. When I did my Subaru and I put the Gyeon coating on, I used their Primer which is similar but different. Similar as it is designed as a prep for the coatings and if you wait 24 hrs you don't have to use a prep wipe, different in that it doesn't have fillers. I didn't like it, found it hard to work with and ultimately after using it on 1 side of the car, went back with a polish to do that side again. I was told that the Subaru paint is finicky sometimes with that stuff for whatever its worth.

After everyone telling you a ton of stuff discussing the merits of Si02 infused polish etc. Don't overthink this too much. You want to polish (with your favorite polishing), prep spray, apply ceramic coating. You can debate the finer points of each part, but realistically there is a lot of personal preference it seems on all of that. I was neurotic about it since its semi permanent, and it drove me nuts trying to make sure I understood/did everything. I think this was unwarrented. The biggest take aways I had were, lots and lots of light, and it helps if you have someone helping you inspect the car to ensure the coating is completely wiped clean.

As far as the interior, I haven't done any of that besides standard leather cleaner and conditioner. I will say, what matters most is how you treat the car. Take out the garbage, not a lot of real eating in the car, rubber mats when its slushy out. I have a 6 year old Honda minivan, it has taken some bumps in the rear cargo area, but the rest of it looks pretty damn nice with cleaning/conditioning the leather 1-2 times a year, immediate clean up of real messes, not having the kids have messy drinks or food in the car, and some low impact interior wiping down a few times a year.

You might want to consider Gyeon or Carpro's leather treatment, others have used it.
 
So the glossenhancer resins in Essence is not working on a corrected paint or flawless paint to begin with? Is they at a lower gloss than the clearcoat is. And the Sio2 protection in Essence is not working with the Sio2 in cquartz coatings? I thought they where working in synergy to ad to the longevity of cquartz coatings. And you say that the abrasives don't wipes of or that the polishing oils do not evaporate when leaved over night?
Maybe you should ask those questions someone who actually said anything along the lines you're asking confirmation for. Because I for one definitely didn't.

On the newer bottles it's not named as a primer. But think they where in the beginning.
Even if this is true, don't you think there was a reason why the manufacturer changed the labeling and removed any mentions of a "primer" from it? And why would a manufacturer remove the mention of the supposed primary use and purpose of a product from the product label anyway (provided it would still be the primary intended use of said product)? Obviously it wouldn't.

And also the versitale use I think has come on the bottles later on. I have only seen it been marketed as a extreme glossenhancing primer for carpros cquarts coatings.
Now does that say something about the product, or about what you've seen (or remember having seen) it marketed as? As said, salespeople tend to make wild claims, and a lot of them have no real understanding of the products they're selling either. Because they're salespeople who sell this stuff and are good at selling, and not detailers, who actually use said products, and have first hand experience with and knowledge of it, and - in an ideal case - have an understanding of the detailing process. Of course word of mouth also usually heavily alters the original information as its spreading, which doesn't help either.

But it can be used with other protection products from Carpro too.
Which is not in conflict with anything I said.

And think that the filling ability is working on a perfect finish too.
And what exactly do you think is then it filling? A perfect finish means there are no scratches left to fill.

As it fills and smooth the finish more than the clearcoat it self is capable of.
The clear coat does not fill anything. The clear coat is what might have scratches in it, and what gets perfectly* flattened by the polishing process when it gets fully corrected. Or what gets its not-too-deep scratches filled up to level by a polisher compound with fillers in it. That's exactly what a wax, sealant or coating is doing, and that's how they're making the paint glossier. Ie. by filling the "valleys" of the remaining scratches up to level with their particles. (Some might even layer above the level of the paint, creating an even more uniform surface - these are the product we typically call coatings.)

That's also how Essence is also making the paint more glossy once you stopped working it: its remaining SiO2 particles fill the valleys of the remaining scratches. Which is however pretty pointless when you're about to apply a coating which will essentially do the same thing anyway, but which will now not be able to bind directly to the paint - especially not in those valleys -, but will have the remnants of Essence: a mix of partially diminished abrasives and carrier compounds in the way.

Now, the SiO2 particles in Essence will make sure that even in this case your coating won't be repelled and will be able to bind (to a degree), but it will bind only to them, not to the paint directly. And, as with any chain (in this case a "chain" of materials binding to each other), its final strength will be determined by its weakest link - which will be Essence in this case. Whereas if you'd have applied the coating directly to the paint, the strength of the link wouldn't have been weakened by Essence in between the paint and the coating.

*The meaning of "perfect" is obviously tied to the grit level of the compound used, and not true at the nano-scale, because, well, molecules, crystalline structures, polymer links, etc. aren't perfectly flat either.

But hey how knows I could be very wrong about how Essence works. I'm about to pick up a bottle that waits on me at the post office. And will test it out when I get a car suited to use it on.
Do so! Even though I'm not sure I understand what kind of insight and how you plan getting from this, especially in the short term.
 
Also consider getting Reflect as the polishing compound, because it contains no fillers, which makes removal a lot simpler, in chemical terms, too. Make sure to work it long enough (as it's a diminishing compound), and you'll get an impressively reflective and glossy finish already on its own. Some might recommend Essence, which according to CarPro can be used as some kind of primer before ceramic coating and does not need to be fully removed before the application of the latter. But in my opinion it's mostly just for lazy people and has its own right only if you don't actually want to follow up with a full-blown ceramic coating, in which case it will save you the time and effort of applying a SiO2 wax or sealant in a separate step. But otherwise it will just diminish the quality and durability of the end result.

Damn I guess I am lazy haha. I did use it with a "full blown coating" in Cquartz UK and TiO2 as a finishing step. Am I still lazy? I am just giving you a hard time as I found it pretty funny.

It's not. Essence is simply a polish with SiO2 fillers in it. The latter makes it "compatible" with SiO2 coatings (which wouldn't be true for polishes with oil-based fillers), but the "whole reason being .. " thing is more than a far fetched stretch. Regardless of this information being populated on forums, and also by resellers, who are obviously interested in selling more stuff to you and more frequently than you'd need them otherwise, and make wild claims about the products they're selling.


That's not the name of the product. The name is "Essence" nothing more and nothing less. The word "primer" is not even on the main label. Only "Xtreme Gloss Enhancer" is there, besides "Hybrid Energy" and "Versatile use" - which obviously say actually nothing.


For one, because with fillers also being there in the compound it means that the finish will be less perfect, because of less abrasives/volume, and because the fillers hiding the possible defects (and not even letting the abrasives get there to correct them). And the second thing is, that those SiO2 fillers (now contaminated with partially diminished abrasive particles anyway) are just not as durable as is CQUK itself - and because they laying under the latter means that they will start to affect the actual coating and diminish the appearance and properties of that sooner, than if there would be only CQUK directly binding to the raw and fully corrected paint.

----

As said, using Essence only makes sense when one is working under time-constraints, and doesn't have time for or doesn't want to do (for whatever reason) a full and proper correction. Because then it makes sense to use a polish with fillers in it, that will diminish (now using this word in a positive sense) the defects, the still remaining swirls and co., by fully or partially filling them. In this case the result will be indeed better, the level of apparent gloss higher than if one would have just used a polish with no fillers in it for the same time, which would obviously have left all the remaining defects in the clear coat fully exposed. In this case and sense such a "primer" might even enhance the properties of an added full-blown coating, because those are also affected by surface defects - and the less of these remain exposed, the better the results.

But if one is doing a full correction and/or working on a essentially flawless paint to begin with, then it just makes no sense to put anything in between the paint and the actual full-blown coating, because it will definitely not help the binding, and definitely will not enhance the gloss either. The only thing it will do is contaminate the binding surface with remnants of abrasives and carrier compounds that don't belong there in the first place and are left in an unknown state anyway.

The new label says Primes the surfaces for Cquartz or Reload. Does that wording qualify it as a primer polish? Or what would qualify it as a so called "primer polish"?

I get what you are saying but unless you or myself are the actual chemist for the product(s) then all we can do is theorize on what is actually going on. Do the solvents within the coating do anything to those so called fillers? Again the actual chemist would be the one that has the answers.

I can even go so far as to say that if one chooses a standard polish and prep wipe, then what happens when a coating fills in those valleys in the paint? Do they hinder the binding of future coatings, waxes or sealants? It is a similar idea with the primer polishes although the primer polishes don't form a "harder" layer of SIO2 compared to a coating.

Now I do agree that there is a lot of misinformation but that could be about most products. Coatings are a perfect example.

And what exactly do you think is then it filling? A perfect finish means there are no scratches left to fill.

Is a "perfect finish" ever achievable? There will at most times be RIDS remaining on the surface, unless the car with a large amount of clear coat where wet sanding can remove deeper scratches. Each person has a different definition of what a perfect finish should be. There are many people who just want the protection a coating offers but don't want to pay for a full correction. Not too mention that clear coat preservation is the key thing.

Whether or not these so called primer polishes do anything is all up each persons experience. I for one enjoy using them whether it be Essence, Gyeon Primer or Shine Supply Slick Back. In the end it is all in good fun. No need to over think it all the time.

Back to the op, did you end up getting what you needed in prep for going with Cquartz?
 
That was quite a read! Actually I glossed over most of it when I realized it was going in a direction I knew I wasn't going to have time for. A lot of that stuff I've always wondered about myself, but knew I'd drive myself crazy thinking about it when all that mattered most to me was how crazy shiny and deep the paint on my Mustang looked after using WG.
I ended up getting the CP prep and coat kit (I'm a towel addict), the Perl, and went with Gyeon Leather Shield. Realistically ANYTHING will help, but, I read more positive feedback on the LS.
I may coat the carpet at some point, but with the floor liners around the kids seats, i'm not in a hurry. Actually, I think I've got some CP fabric coating in the Great Cabinet O Supplies, I need to do some digging.
Thanks for all the input fellas. I've been impressed with the factory paint, it's doggone smooth with little orange peel. They've come a long way in the last 13 years since I bought my Mustang!

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You bought some good stuff. Gyeon Leather Shield is nice to work with. Feel free to check out my review for it if you are looking for how to apply it. I will be posting up a follow up to that review 1 year after.

Let’s us know how the coating works out for you. CQUK 3.0 has been doing well for me at 4 months in this far.

Perl is nice and versatile. Looks good on the interior plastics and is pro ice for tires and quick touch up of trim.
 
Damn I guess I am lazy haha. I did use it with a "full blown coating" in Cquartz UK and TiO2 as a finishing step. Am I still lazy?
When someone does something that does not make sense and/or wastes products and/or gives him poorer results than what's possible, he's not lazy. He's just doing something that doesn't make sense, and used more products than necessary, and that could have been done better and smarter.

The new label says Primes the surfaces for Cquartz or Reload. Does that wording qualify it as a primer polish?
Is "qualify as" a synonym of "product name is"? Then why are you asking? Especially that your question has already been answered in my post.

I get what you are saying but unless you or myself are the actual chemist for the product(s) then all we can do is theorize on what is actually going on.
Chemical composition of a particular product has nothing to do with the "general theory" of scratches and polishing. You don't need to know the exact chemical formulation of a particular product to understand how it achieves something.

Do you need know the chemical composition of a hammer to know how it can be used to hammer in nails? Or do you need to know the chemical composition of a blue paint to paint your room blue with it, or to know that if you apply it to your wall it will make it blue? Obviously you don't.

The same thing with polishes and fillers. You don't need to understand their chemical formulation to know how they work on the level of scratches and how they increase gloss.

Do the solvents within the coating do anything to those so called fillers?
Why would be this relevant? And what answer do you expect to get on such a generic question? Could and will any reasonable answer be true for all fillers and coatings? What particular products and what exact version/formulation of them are we talking about? What ambient temperature and humidity levels, and what amount of fillers, what kind of application are we talking about? Or are these specifics only important when you say something about a formulation of a particular product, but not when you're asking how - in general - this or that kind of products work?

I can even go so far as to say that if one chooses a standard polish and prep wipe, then what happens when a coating fills in those valleys in the paint?
As I've already explained, they will be filled by the coating.

Do they hinder the binding of future coatings, waxes or sealants?
How is that question relevant to anything said here? And again, what particular coating and future coatings, waxes or sealant are we talking about here? Or are you again expecting an answer that's true for every combination of them?

It is a similar idea with the primer polishes although the primer polishes don't form a "harder" layer of SIO2 compared to a coating.
The (oversimplified) problem is that the primer polish is less concentrated, which in turn will obviously have a negative effect on the resulting bond, durability, etc, compared to the more concentrated coating. That's what I explained in my previous comment, too.

Is a "perfect finish" ever achievable?
In the sense I explained, it is.

There will at most times be RIDS remaining on the surface
Then that's not a perfect finish. And as such those things that I said about perfect finishes do not apply to it. Instead those other things what I have said about non-perfect finishes are what applies to them.

Each person has a different definition of what a perfect finish should be.
I don't agree with that, but even if it would be so, I precisely defined what "perfect finish" means for the purposes of my explanation.

There are many people who just want the protection a coating offers but don't want to pay for a full correction.
That's what I started my explanation with, and what I repeated multiple times.

Not too mention that clear coat preservation is the key thing.
The "key thing" is whatever you make the key thing. If you make "maximizing gloss" (including the durability of that) your key thing, then you'll have to sacrify clear coat. If you make "preserving clear coat" your key thing, then you've limited your options and you will only be able to achieve that much in the gloss and durability department that this self-imposed limitation allows you to.

Whether or not these so called primer polishes do anything is all up each persons experience.
That's like saying that whether the Sun rises on the East is all up to each persons experience.

I for one enjoy using them whether it be Essence, Gyeon Primer or Shine Supply Slick Back.
Nobody said you shouldn't use them. I only explained what makes sense and what doesn't, and what the benefits and what the drawbacks are of using Essence this or that way.
 
I tried the seat cover idea on Momma, and she put that right to sleep. Which honestly, i'm not a big fan of either because I do love how the seats look. We are going to get some seat protectors for the car seats though. And I got some free Weathertech-style floor liners from the dealer, and we compromised that they would only go in the back; she likes having carpet under her feet when we travel. Which again, i'm okay with, because all that covers a good portion of what will be tread upon daily.
The seats will definitely be getting a coat of something though. The dash and trim as well, but that's not priority like the rest.

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Rubber mats no, but WeatherTech floor liners definitely. They are easy to maintain and you can even coat them. Depending on where you live, you have to have them if you care about your vehicle. Here in New England with the snow and muck of the winter, they should be standard equipment. Seat covers can be hit and miss. I would say yes with cloth seats and kids. I happened to find Seat Glove seat covers here on Autogeek that match the interior of my company car nicely, and they are machine washable.

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