New Black Yukon and the usual stuff

When someone does something that does not make sense and/or wastes products and/or gives him poorer results than what's possible, he's not lazy. He's just doing something that doesn't make sense, and used more products than necessary, and that could have been done better and smarter.


Is "qualify as" a synonym of "product name is"? Then why are you asking? Especially that your question has already been answered in my post.


Chemical composition of a particular product has nothing to do with the "general theory" of scratches and polishing. You don't need to know the exact chemical formulation of a particular product to understand how it achieves something.

Do you need know the chemical composition of a hammer to know how it can be used to hammer in nails? Or do you need to know the chemical composition of a blue paint to paint your room blue with it, or to know that if you apply it to your wall it will make it blue? Obviously you don't.

The same thing with polishes and fillers. You don't need to understand their chemical formulation to know how they work on the level of scratches and how they increase gloss.


Why would be this relevant? And what answer do you expect to get on such a generic question? Could and will any reasonable answer be true for all fillers and coatings? What particular products and what exact version/formulation of them are we talking about? What ambient temperature and humidity levels, and what amount of fillers, what kind of application are we talking about? Or are these specifics only important when you say something about a formulation of a particular product, but not when you're asking how - in general - this or that kind of products work?


As I've already explained, they will be filled by the coating.


How is that question relevant to anything said here? And again, what particular coating and future coatings, waxes or sealant are we talking about here? Or are you again expecting an answer that's true for every combination of them?


The (oversimplified) problem is that the primer polish is less concentrated, which in turn will obviously have a negative effect on the resulting bond, durability, etc, compared to the more concentrated coating. That's what I explained in my previous comment, too.


In the sense I explained, it is.


Then that's not a perfect finish. And as such those things that I said about perfect finishes do not apply to it. Instead those other things what I have said about non-perfect finishes are what applies to them.


I don't agree with that, but even if it would be so, I precisely defined what "perfect finish" means for the purposes of my explanation.


That's what I started my explanation with, and what I repeated multiple times.


The "key thing" is whatever you make the key thing. If you make "maximizing gloss" (including the durability of that) your key thing, then you'll have to sacrify clear coat. If you make "preserving clear coat" your key thing, then you've limited your options and you will only be able to achieve that much in the gloss and durability department that this self-imposed limitation allows you to.


That's like saying that whether the Sun rises on the East is all up to each persons experience.


Nobody said you shouldn't use them. I only explained what makes sense and what doesn't, and what the benefits and what the drawbacks are of using Essence this or that way.

I don’t expect you to know the answers. There is a lot of things that don’t make sense with what you posted in this thread. What I’m getting at is that these are all just your personal opinions just like everyone else has their personal opinions on the forum.

You have your process, I have my process and others have their process. There is no wrong approach.
 
There is a lot of things that don’t make sense with what you posted in this thread.
You mean they don't make sense to you, don't you? I'm more than ready to believe that. That they don't actually make sense - well, that's another story. Still if there are any factual inaccuratenesses and/or logical contradictions in what I said, it should be very easy to point out them one by one. But a blanket statement about they not making sense without specifics... well, that just won't cut it.

What I’m getting at is that these are all just your personal opinions just like everyone else has their personal opinions on the forum.
Your logical fallacy is personal incredulity
False equivalence and false balance – logical fallacies
 
You mean they don't make sense to you, don't you? I'm more than ready to believe that. That they don't actually make sense - well, that's another story. Still if there are any factual inaccuratenesses and/or logical contradictions in what I said, it should be very easy to point out them one by one. But a blanket statement about they not making sense without specifics... well, that just won't cut it.


Your logical fallacy is personal incredulity
False equivalence and false balance – logical fallacies

Geez another question. Honestly it’s not worth picking apart each and everyone of your statements. Here is another blanket statement for you. You provided a whole lot of here say, theories or whatever you want to call them without any actual proof. It seems like this is a common thing with most of your posts.

I’m done

Would it make you feel better if I said you win /thread......
 
Yeah, that's your understanding of the matter. Which, considering that you don't even know a "theory" is essentially the highest level any scientific construct can reach, and it means that said construct has been confirmed to be valid and factual, doesn't mean much, does it?

I'm trying to explaining things based on logic and facts, and the only thing you can say is that "you're wrong", without even attempting to point out what and why I would be wrong about.

This leads to nowhere. If one does not have neither the will to learn, nor the skills to actually argue with what - for whatever reason - he doesn't want to agree with, then conversing with that person is pretty much pointless.
 
Of course it's pouring down rain on the first family trip in the new ride. AND our cabin is at the end of a very muddy gravel road. Which leads me to my next question:
What are some recommendations on engine coatings?
I'd like to help guard it against build up and debris. Shoot, I've not even popped the hood yet to see the powerplant, guess I missed the opportunity to see a flawless engine bay!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Of course it's pouring down rain on the first family trip in the new ride. AND our cabin is at the end of a very muddy gravel road. Which leads me to my next question:
What are some recommendations on engine coatings?
I'd like to help guard it against build up and debris. Shoot, I've not even popped the hood yet to see the powerplant, guess I missed the opportunity to see a flawless engine bay!

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Don't feel bad...you're not the only one that has "missed" details like that.

As far as the engine bay question is concerned...there are ton's of threads regarding this. many different products. If you do a search (like I did), just realize that you're in for information overload. As far as what I have gleamed from the subject, I am just using 303 protectant. Would I use something else more effective? Probably yes. But I am an enthusiast, and had to go with what I have, until I run out. The only recommendation I can give is to do it more often, since regular maintenance is a lot better than waiting (my Daily driver, a 2009 Yaris, was severely neglected in that area ;) ).

Here's where I started:
How To: Detail Your Engine Like a Professional

Eric



Eric
 
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What are some recommendations on engine coatings?
CarPro Perl diluted 1:3 worked really well for me mostly on everything I've tried it on in the engine bay (even though it's not a coating but a dressing). Makes black plastics really deep black, red and yellow plastics more intensively red and yellow. Works great on rubber hoses too, makes them black.

It also gives mostly everything a nice gloss, even though that will be essentially gone in a week or two, because of engine heat, I presume. However, most of the darkening/blackening effect will remain, and what's more important: so will the repellency effect, which hinders engine fluids and dirt from binding to the materials Perl was applied to. It works so great that even 6 months after an easy wipe with a microfiber towel will still be able to remove >90% of all contaminants that have settled in the bay in the meantime.

Of course this assumes that you've cleaned the hoses, plastics in the engine bay thoroughly before application. I use Gtechniq W5 diluted to 1:4 for this, but any other APC should work just fine.

The car hosting the engine in the photo is 10 years old.

qRkgBsm.jpg
 
Another product recommendation for an engine dressing is Sonus Motorkote. This is probably the best one I've encountered for looks and longevity as long as follow the instructions. My next favorite is Griot's engine dressing. The only one drawback with theirs IMO, is its an aerosol and it will get overspray is you're not careful.
 
Wow, that's a great looking engine bay! I think I'll try Perl out since I've already got some coming. Though I do think I'm in the market for more APC.
Yeah aerosols definitely wouldn't be ideal for me. The only time I tried one was with Diamondites plastic lense cleaner, and while it worked well, it still got places I didn't want it to.

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I do like Griots though, and I've got an ever expanding "To Try" list going.

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i have tried sonus motorkote and have loved it ever since.. its on back order now which sucks with all the sales going on.
 
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