Bad results using Meguiars cleaner wax on single stage

65Marauder said:
I used a polisher with freshly washed terry cloth bonnets. However, that was not the problem. You can still see big white marks where I wiped on the initial product.

I would say, with the deep crystal, at step 1, using the cleaner, I began to see problems. I expected it would buff out with the further steps, but it did not. It may have gotten a little better, but still looked bad.

Perhaps Meguiars 7 will fix it, but at this point I am really reluctant to try another Meguiars product.
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How would the paint react when only wipe it with a mf towel and nothing else. Are you able to see if say wipe 10 times back and forth if you get any towel marring on the paint.

I don't think Megs #7 will fix this. It's something else going on than the polishes. Either your terry cloth bonnet is very aggressive and I would test with a light foam polishing pad or finishing foam pad. And combo it with the last step of deep crystal polish. To see if you are able to get the paint clearer. If not it can be that the urethane paint is very soft and needs to be polishing with extreme fine cut polish and foam pad. That's why I suggested you to wipe with only a mf towel to see if you have gotten a really soft paint.
 
How long was the wax left on before you removed?
 
If you have a new wax foam applicator and use the deep crystal polish that is the least aggressive. And do just a little spot with hand polishing and see what happens.

The water filling the tiny scratches to get a flat paint and how that reflect is what you see a glossy surface. So the Meguiars #7 would make it look better since it's a glaze that filling these little tiny scratches. But when it wears off and if it's not any residue that it can clean off like it does with old oxidized single stage paint. You will be back where you started. So without any correction on the paint to level it down to a scratch free surface. You will have it coming back.

And if you don't have a soft paint. I think your terry cloth bonnet is what have done this mess. You could try a different brand of polish. But most have the same kind of solvents in them. It would have been a difference if it where only 1 polish product that gave you these marring.
 
Maybe you guys can see better in this video. It’s not the bonnets. I put it on, let it dry and have been trying to remove it since then.

YouTube
 
65Marauder said:
Note that it looks fine wet.
It just dries cloudy.
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:idea:

Give this a go:
Have you tried “wetting” the paint
down with good ol’ Meguiar’s #7?

{The paint, in its current dried-out/whitish condition,
should have no problem in sucking up a whole bunch
of the Trade Secret (T.S.) oils, and conditioners—the
paint-improvement-stuff—that #7 is famous for.}


[Just a suggestion.]


Bob
 
Again, the paint itself is not “dried out/whitish”, that was caused by the cleaner wax.
 
65Marauder said:
Maybe you guys can see better in this video. It’s not the bonnets. I put it on, let it dry and have been trying to remove it since then.

YouTube
Click to expand...

Did you apply the cleaner wax and let it dry? Then used the polisher with the bonnet to try to get it off?

Sorry to say but that polisher will not be doing any correction that is necessary I think. I would test to apply a couple of dots on a foam pad applicator with either the cleaner wax or the deep crystal polish and work it in small area. And wipe it off directly.

It could be the solvents in the cleaner wax as they have more of the chemicals in them to get the cleaning ability. But it's just strange if that would be a reaction on your paint from it. I don't know so much of urethane paint and what you are going to be carefull with some chemicals or not.

Hope you get it sorted out some way.
 
65Marauder said:
Note that it looks fine wet.
It just dries cloudy.
Click to expand...

D24BC525-5511-432A-B688-E25A1B69331D.jpeg


65Marauder said:
Again, the paint itself is not “dried out/whitish”,
that was caused by the cleaner wax.
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^^^That’s not “dried out/whitish”?

Sure could have fooled me...


Bob
 
To be specific, the car was painted March 1, but I started working on polishing about a week ago, so roughly 3 weeks after paint.
 
Looks like you are trying to wax powder coating.

Is the paint super smooth or is it rough feeling?
 
The paint is not as smooth as I would like it to be. I did not aggressively color sand it, but that may be my next step.
 
I’ve really never seen a wax do this to any paint. You stated that the paint is rough, so go ahead and sand it smooth then apply any good non-cleaner wax and it should turn out beautiful. Please post pictures when finished.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
I’ve really never seen a wax do this to any paint. You stated that the paint is rough, so go ahead and sand it smooth then apply any good non-cleaner wax and it should turn out beautiful. Please post pictures when finished.
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I’m concerend at this point that might actually grind the product into the paint, making it even harder to remove.
 
It’s definately not the wax, it’s the process!

First time painting an automobile?
 
Dr Oldz said:
It’s definately not the wax, it’s the process!

First time painting an automobile?
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No, but I am certainly not a pro. However it looked FAR better before applying the cleaner wax. All the white/bleaching you see was caused by the wax.

I just want to, at this point, know how to remove it.
 
in gonna reply reading what i read here:
Noob looking for advice, tips and tricks • How to Paint Your Own Car, Auto Body Discussion Forum & Videos • AutoBody101.com
you used the summit single stage light metallic blue. i didnt read anything about you spending the money for clearcoat over the metallic, which was suggested in that thread.
looks like there was a reply:
"with metallic single stage,youre not going to want to buff it."
and another
"ill address the sand/buff SSmetallic as i think im the only one who mentioned that. i dont know which paint line your using but i did it on sherwin williams- i think it was dimensions SS- about 10 years ago. set of motorcycle tins. an extremely dark blue with a blue metallic flake.ive read that with SS the clear comes to the surface but i dont know- what i had happen was i was sanding on some of the flake which made little silver specs all over the tank -looked like it had acne. was using 1200 grit,too as it laid pretty nice- just a bit of OP in one spot. ended up scuffing everything, repainting, and spraying a couple coats of clear."


now onto the product sheet for summit acrylic urethane metallics:
Clear coat is required on the high metallic colors as noted above.
found here
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/chartsguides/s/sum-up100q.pdf

on the product page here
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up320q/recommendedparts

one of the suggested parts is- clearcoat.

a partial reply of yours in this thread:
I did not aggressively color sand it

did you color sand on a single stage metallic?
if so, this is operator error- not the product.

there is absolutely no way a cleaner wax on its own could do that. theres more to the story.

color/wet sanding a clear or solid color can bring out a helluva shine with the right buffer.
thats not the right buffer.
 
I just read the thread the OP started on MeguiarsOnline.com - and the guys at Meguiar's are my friends and they are all very good people.

Meguiar's also makes VERY GOOD products.


The problem you see with your paint job is not the fault of the wax. It was the wrong product to apply to this paint.


Now I'm reading you painted single stage metallic paint and then sanded it.

In another thread I think I saw you post the surface is rough.


I try really hard to help people and I also try really hard to give everyone the benefit of the doubt. I'm going to continue trying to help you but I will say this, it's against our forum rule to bash people and companies and I'm not impressed with what you wrote on the Meguiar's forum.


I have a Corvette to detail so I can't hang out on the forum, I actual walk the talk in this industry. I am going to post the link the forum rules and include the rule that address bashing or bad mouthing people, products or companies.

We NEVER ban anyone on this forum. A person bans themselves by breaking the forum rules. So myself and as you've seen, others on this forum are happy to help just abide by the rules.

MeguiarsOnline.com has the same rules by the way, I know I wrote them.


Forum Rules


4. No bashing any company or their products. No bashing other people. If you can't say anything nice about someone, then don't say anything at all, this also includes talking to others in a demeaning manner.



:)
 
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