6in Orbital to 15mm

Yeah I did my first polish /correction ever. My mustangs got a ton of curves. The G15 stall here and their but I would adjust (rotate) the head and she would kick right back in. Simple to use.

I would highly recommend if your new and need polishing AND correcting skip an 8mm and by the 15. Works faster, way smoother than GG6. A lot will recommend to start with the an 8 mm

Some post/article seem intimidating but truth is you’d have to mess up really bad to damage paint (sit on one place 20+ seconds).

My recommendation though is for newer cars though. Have a nice amount of clear to work with. Long as you remember to keep moving all is well.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
Yeah I did my first polish /correction ever. My mustangs got a ton of curves. The G15 stall here and their but I would adjust (rotate) the head and she would kick right back in. Simple to use.

I would highly recommend if your new and need polishing AND correcting skip an 8mm and by the 15. Works faster, way smoother than GG6. A lot will recommend to start with the an 8 mm

Some post/article seem intimidating but truth is you’d have to mess up really bad to damage paint (sit on one place 20+ seconds).

My recommendation though is for newer cars though. Have a nice amount of clear to work with. Long as you remember to keep moving all is well.


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Click to expand...
Truth be told, after tackling a 3in rotary on my pillars without issue, I kind of regret my 21mm throw and wish I opted for a rotary I think as long as you keep it moving with the right pad and speed you'll be fine.



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AaronE said:
Truth be told, after tackling a 3in rotary on my pillars without issue, I kind of regret my 21mm throw and wish I opted for a rotary I think as long as you keep it moving with the right pad and speed you'll be fine.



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Click to expand...


If you ever decide to do rotary, go with the new Metabo
Best you'll get for your $$$$

Metabo PE 15-20 RT
 
BSoares said:
I've never had issues with my G15 stalling. Works great.
Click to expand...

I very very rarely have with my G21 .
My obersavation and experience is the 15mm always stalled more than the 21versions

And end users technique on how well they readjust polisher to keep pad flat on panel curvatures is what dictates stall or power..

Hell I don't have any issues stalling in curves with my 25mm CutForce with 5in BP
 
AaronE said:
I'll keep it in mind! I doubt I will though unless I take on a lot more work. The 21mm makes quick work of a car and mine doesn't vibrate too much.

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Griot correct?
It likes a lighter pad with the 6in plate
You could most likey balance better with a 5in pad and a heavier pad..
I can play around with weights and balance for ha..willing to bet it'll like a 35gram 5.5 pad
 
Mike@ShineStruck said:
Griot correct?
It likes a lighter pad with the 6in plate
You could most likey balance better with a 5in pad and a heavier pad..
I can play around with weights and balance for ha..willing to bet it'll like a 35gram 5.5 pad
Click to expand...
Mines a lot like the Griots. But I haven't had an issue with stalling to need to look into a solution. I doubt I will except maybe in the Ram 1500 and a couple spots on the plane; but at that point, I'll just grab my GG6 with the 5in plate and use it.

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VISITOR said:
you bring up a great point DR. here's a video by joe (nextlevelautodetail) where there are many curves and narrow/thin panels on this vehicle and he does exactly what you just mentioned by adjusting his technique...

Click to expand...

It doesn't matter it's simple physics. If you have a machine that has to be flat to rotate the pad then you are not getting good contact on the contour of a car. You're now only polishing a tiny area effectively and most of the pad is touching air.

There is no way around this if you have a machine with a pad that has to be flat to spin and a contoured car panel. You can rationalize it until you're blue in the face but it's not going to change that fact.
 
AaronE said:
Mines a lot like the Griots. But I haven't had an issue with stalling to need to look into a solution. I doubt I will except maybe in the Ram 1500 and a couple spots on the plane; but at that point, I'll just grab my GG6 with the 5in plate and use it.

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Click to expand...
Ok but if you have a long throw machine it is either stalling or the pad is not in full contact on the contour. It may not be an issue for a lot of people but the bottom line is that it's happening. You can't out technique this problem with most long throws.
 
fightnews said:
Ok but if you have a long throw machine it is either stalling or the pad is not in full contact on the contour. It may not be an issue for a lot of people but the bottom line is that it's happening. You can't out technique this problem with most long throws.
Click to expand...
You hit the nail on the head. If I'm working a curve I'm more inclined to just grab a different tool for the job that does it better. Maybe if it's a super small area and I don't want to grab the 3 in rotary for some odd reason, I can live with a partial contact.

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If the curve is too deep, you simply attack it in 2 sections..
top of crease first then bottom of crease..
Hell I've corrected with a stalled 21mm..
The oscillation of the 21mm with the dragging action of you moving polisher across crease will correct..but still faster to attack by 2 parts vs my massage/scrub technique
 
Technique plays a factor.......... Who knew?

"Simple physics" aside........
 
fightnews said:
It doesn't matter it's simple physics. If you have a machine that has to be flat to rotate the pad then you are not getting good contact on the contour of a car. You're now only polishing a tiny area effectively and most of the pad is touching air.

There is no way around this if you have a machine with a pad that has to be flat to spin and a contoured car panel. You can rationalize it until you're blue in the face but it's not going to change that fact.
Click to expand...

So.... A machine that does NOT stall on a curved panel has full contact?

Last I checked, just about every polisher/backing plate are pretty much flat to start. That is, not one of them can "cup" themselves to a panel that is curved.

This is where technique comes in.

A human can lighten up on the pressure, tilt the machine, or otherwise use common sense to make a machine work to their liking.

Simple physics.
 
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