Nanoskin AutoScrub vs Mothers Speed Clay 2.0

[mrq0604]

I am planning to use synthetic clay bar for the first time.

I was wondering whether there is a significant difference between Nanoskin and Mothers in terms of how well it picks up contaminants. I can just buy Speed Clay at local store while I have to order Nanoskin...

Furthermore, are there things I should be aware of as a first-time synthetic clay bar user? (Scratches, etc?). Are there any disadvantages compared to actual clay? I've heard of people complain about synthetic clay's reluctance to conform to car's curves and contours. What are some tips for using synthetic clays?

Thank you

 

[Goonie75]

I am planning to use synthetic clay bar for the first time.

I was wondering whether there is a significant difference between Nanoskin and Mothers in terms of how well it picks up contaminants. I can just buy Speed Clay at local store while I have to order Nanoskin...

Furthermore, are there things I should be aware of as a first-time synthetic clay bar user? (Scratches, etc?). Are there any disadvantages compared to actual clay? I've heard of people complain about synthetic clay's reluctance to conform to car's curves and contours. What are some tips for using synthetic clays?

Thank you

The Nanoskin I use is a Mitt. Faster and larger than mothers. Material is perhaps better... but similar I feel. Drol and rinse and go. Mitt will conform. I think the Mitt may remove a little more / better than the mothers. We have both and clay. Mitt is just quicker.

Figure polishing at least either way... helps anyway with marring that can happen with either medium.

Good luck

Ryan

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app

 

[mrq0604]

The Nanoskin I use is a Mitt. Faster and larger than mothers. Material is perhaps better... but similar I feel. Drol and rinse and go. Mitt will conform. I think the Mitt may remove a little more / better than the mothers. We have both and clay. Mitt is just quicker.

Figure polishing at least either way... helps anyway with marring that can happen with either medium.

Good luck

Ryan

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app

Thanks for your input!

I've heard that clay is better... Is this true? Should I use both clay and synthetic clay?

 

[Goonie75]

Clay is more thorough IMO. Both work well. If in no hurry use clay. We typically make a fresh bucket of suds and use nano skin mitt

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[Just1more1397]

Just from my point of view:
- if this is your first time using a synthetic clay products, why not stick with the basics from the local auto parts store first and see how you like it...you can always branch out later...
* i've used the mothers 2.0 several several times, as well as the G.'s Garage Brand, And I personally like the mothers much better. Much harder Solid material, fits nicely in hand etc, it's so easy man, You really can't screw this up unless your an absolute first time car washer period, or maybe if you're missing one arm and one leg also.

1 quick "pointer": When using detail spray, or other lubricator, I myself think Griots garage waterless car wash (green) is the #1 best and most importantly "highest lubricity" product on the market for this purpose. I mean this stuff is awesome, I personally have it beating out everyone's waterless car wash, and also just about every quick detailer or even spray wax I've ever tried except for a few....

** just be sure to wipe down that synthetic bar afternoon, don't drag dirt/sand around, I like to thoroughly wash & dry the vehicle, along with the entire parking area around and under the vehicle as well before beginning, just in case clay 2.0 falls on the ground so you don't pick up any / as much sand.

Have fun !

 

[mrq0604]

Just from my point of view:
- if this is your first time using a synthetic clay products, why not stick with the basics from the local auto parts store first and see how you like it...you can always branch out later...
* i've used the mothers 2.0 several several times, as well as the G.'s Garage Brand, And I personally like the mothers much better. Much harder Solid material, fits nicely in hand etc, it's so easy man, You really can't screw this up unless your an absolute first time car washer period, or maybe if you're missing one arm and one leg also.

1 quick "pointer": When using detail spray, or other lubricator, I myself think Griots garage waterless car wash (green) is the #1 best and most importantly "highest lubricity" product on the market for this purpose. I mean this stuff is awesome, I personally have it beating out everyone's waterless car wash, and also just about every quick detailer or even spray wax I've ever tried except for a few....

** just be sure to wipe down that synthetic bar afternoon, don't drag dirt/sand around, I like to thoroughly wash & dry the vehicle, along with the entire parking area around and under the vehicle as well before beginning, just in case clay 2.0 falls on the ground so you don't pick up any / as much sand.

Have fun !

Wow. Thanks for detailed response. I really appreciate it

I have one bar of clay laying around, so I'll use combination of both

 

[SWETM]

With synthetic clay always beginning with all of the glass first time you use it. It has a protected first layer that needs to be abraded off. And doing the glass first is enough for the synthetic clay to be ready for the paint. Many don't do this and get it to break in on the paint and you will be seeing some marring. With a good lubrication you can do good. But polishing is recommended afterwards if you have a lot of contaminants that needs to be clayed off. If you have a lot of contaminants it can be a better choice with the clay bar in effectiveness. Also what many do is to use the clay alternatives too long before cleaning it. It's trickier to see what you pick up with the clay alternatives vs clay bars. But it should pick up the same amount of contaminants. So do as you useally do with clay bars when it time to fold it you rinse the clay alternatives instead. Otherwise it's pretty much as claying with a clay bar.

If you want to see how effective your clay alternative is. Do a little test spot with the clay bar you have on a spot you have a feel of been clayed enough with the clay alternative.

And as with clay bars the clay alternatives has also different quality between brands. So go with one that you have heard great things about. Have not used the options you chose between but Nanoskin is a high quality from what I have seen people mentioned. Mothers one I have not heard anything about. If you are not going to be polishing afterwards I highly recommend to have some kind of inspection light and check a spot before and after and see how you are doing. Different paints is more scratch sensitive than others and it's not so fun to see that you have a lot of clay marring when you are done with it.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

I just used Griots synthetic (1st synthetic clay). I chose this over the mothers as I found overall better reviews on it than the mothers. I felt it but better even surface pressure than trying to hold towel or mitt by hand.

I have a 16 mustang and she’s curvy. The Griots SC had no problem conforming to the car. I don’t believe it added marring but car was swirled pretty good to start. I’d give it 5 stars. You definetly could “hear” contaminants being removed. Griots recommended their speed shine as a clay lube so went with that. It’s actually an awesome QD also.

Which ever you try make sure to break in the synthetic. Theirs a coating on their that needs to be worn off for synthetic to work the best and may also marr the paint. To break in just clay all glass on car and that should do it


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[PaulMys]

Yeah, the Griot's Synthetic Clay is great with the Speed Shine.

This is my favorite combo that I have tried.

I used to dread using a clay bar. Too tedious and took forever. I can use the Griot's SC, and go over my entire truck in less than an hour.

Just to note: Having the Nano-skin sponges on hand for tight areas is a must also. IMO

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

Yeah, the Griot's Synthetic Clay is great with the Speed Shine.

This is my favorite combo that I have tried.

I used to dread using a clay bar. Too tedious and took forever. I can use the Griot's SC, and go over my entire truck in less than an hour.

Just to note: Having the Nano-skin sponges on hand for tight areas is a must also. IMO

Same combo. 2 little nano’s one medium, one fine.


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[SayNoToPistons]

I've used plenty of regular clay in the paste ranging from fine to aggressive. I've also regularly used Nano's ranging from fine to medium the past couple years.

I can say for sure that the clay bars are more effective on heavily contaminated cars. Even the medium nanos can't get rid of everything. For anything up to moderately contaminated cars, I go for the nano because I can just blitz the car in a fraction of the time it takes to use a clay bar.

 

[mrq0604]

OP here. One more question:

Does synthetic clay also strip off sealant and wax? I know clays and ISP do not completely strip off wax and sealant, but I still would like to know whether synergetic Clay is effective at removing wax somehow

 

[Eldorado2k]

OP here. One more question:

Does synthetic clay also strip off sealant and wax? I know clays and ISP do not completely strip off wax and sealant, but I still would like to know whether synergetic Clay is effective at removing wax somehow

I’d say it does. I’d also say claybar removes sealants & waxes. Enough to where I consider them no longer there.

 

[fightnews]

I am planning to use synthetic clay bar for the first time.

I was wondering whether there is a significant difference between Nanoskin and Mothers in terms of how well it picks up contaminants. I can just buy Speed Clay at local store while I have to order Nanoskin...

Furthermore, are there things I should be aware of as a first-time synthetic clay bar user? (Scratches, etc?). Are there any disadvantages compared to actual clay? I've heard of people complain about synthetic clay's reluctance to conform to car's curves and contours. What are some tips for using synthetic clays?

Thank you

Make sure you remove the protective coating before first use

 

[E93to]

OP here.

Some more questions about the procedure:

(1) How many times can the synthetic clay be re-used? I've read that it is good for 10 cars, and it just needs to be washed in laundry machine. Is that true?

(2) Does laundry-washing turn the synthetic clay into "brand-new" synthetic clay? I am asking this because cleaning contamination off of synthetic clay is important before re-use (just like we fold clay before moving onto new panel).

(3) My weekend car is barely contaminated. Even if I use clay, I barely see contamination pick-up. The car is driven less than 3000 miles per year, and never driven in snow/rain. Should I break in the synthetic clay on glass panels first, or should I clay another car (rather heavily contaminated) to remove the protective layer?

(4) I found a local detailing shop where I can purchase Nanoskin, but it is "Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge Combo Pack", which includes:

Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge – Fine Grade
Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge – Medium Grade

What is the difference between "mitt" and Autoscrub?

Thanks

 

[Eldorado2k]

OP here.

Some more questions about the procedure:

(1) How many times can the synthetic clay be re-used? I've read that it is good for 10 cars, and it just needs to be washed in laundry machine. Is that true?

(2) Does laundry-washing turn the synthetic clay into "brand-new" synthetic clay? I am asking this because cleaning contamination off of synthetic clay is important before re-use (just like we fold clay before moving onto new panel).

(3) My weekend car is barely contaminated. Even if I use clay, I barely see contamination pick-up. The car is driven less than 3000 miles per year, and never driven in snow/rain. Should I break in the synthetic clay on glass panels first, or should I clay another car (rather heavily contaminated) to remove the protective layer?

(4) I found a local detailing shop where I can purchase Nanoskin, but it is "Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge Combo Pack", which includes:

Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge – Fine Grade
Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge – Medium Grade

What is the difference between "mitt" and Autoscrub?

Thanks

The Nanoskin synthetic clay towel/mitt/sponge can do well past 10 vehicles.. I’ve found that alot of its longevity depends on how you care for it.
1st of all, never ever wash it in the washing machine, you’ll ruin it.
Don’t use any sort of unapproved chemical to try and clean it because it’s not solvent resistant.
Don’t leave it in direct sunlight for extended period of time because it can and will melt.
Don’t leave it outdoors for too long or it will attract dust & debris that will stick to it, which will effect the way it works i.e. you might notice it will suddenly begin to marr paint.

Proper care is imperative to its longevity and effectiveness without marring paint, as is using plenty of claylube. Do those 3 things and it is completely possible if used correctly to go from Nanoskin directly to lsp even on black paint. I’ve done it many times... I’ve also allowed several claymitts to die a premature death due to being lazy and leaving them out or simply not caring for them the way I should’ve.

Rinse/dunk them clean with water or rinseless wash solution, or if you want the very best way to clean them get yourself some of this Blackfire Synthetic Clay Mitt Cleaner.

Use as directed then allow the mitt/towel/sponge to air dry, preferably indoors in a clean environment. I like to place my mitt over a spray bottle and “hang” dry. The important thing is to not forget about it and promptly return it to its place where it’s kept dry and protected, but also vented and untouched. Follow that advice and your claymitt will live a long and prosperous marr free life.

-And no, don’t break it in by claying your neighbors ugly car... You break it in on your exterior glass. Usually all it takes is a good claying of your windshield. I like to go ahead and clay all the exterior glass on the vehicle I’m working on just to be sure it’s completely broken in. There’s nothing more to it.

 

[mrq0604]

The Nanoskin synthetic clay towel/mitt/sponge can do well past 10 vehicles.. I’ve found that alot of its longevity depends on how you care for it.
1st of all, never ever wash it in the washing machine, you’ll ruin it.
Don’t use any sort of unapproved chemical to try and clean it because it’s not solvent resistant.
Don’t leave it in direct sunlight for extended period of time because it can and will melt.
Don’t leave it outdoors for too long or it will attract dust & debris that will stick to it, which will effect the way it works i.e. you might notice it will suddenly begin to marr paint.

Proper care is imperative to its longevity and effectiveness without marring paint, as is using plenty of claylube. Do those 3 things and it is completely possible if used correctly to go from Nanoskin directly to lsp even on black paint. I’ve done it many times... I’ve also allowed several claymitts to die a premature death due to being lazy and leaving them out or simply not caring for them the way I should’ve.

Rinse/dunk them clean with water or rinseless wash solution, or if you want the very best way to clean them get yourself some of this Blackfire Synthetic Clay Mitt Cleaner.

Use as directed then allow the mitt/towel/sponge to air dry, preferably indoors in a clean environment. I like to place my mitt over a spray bottle and “hang” dry. The important thing is to not forget about it and promptly return it to its place where it’s kept dry and protected, but also vented and untouched. Follow that advice and your claymitt will live a long and prosperous marr free life.

-And no, don’t break it in by claying your neighbors ugly car... You break it in on your exterior glass. Usually all it takes is a good claying of your windshield. I like to go ahead and clay all the exterior glass on the vehicle I’m working on just to be sure it’s completely broken in. There’s nothing more to it.

Thanks for your input.

I would love to store the synthetic clay in my house but I am an OCD germaphobe... I can't just put it in my house unless perfectly cleaned and washed.

So can I wash the synthetic clay with hand soap? Or regular bar of soap?

Or can I just store it in the garage away from sunlight (in a plastic container)? Garage temp can reach 90 degrees in summer. And in winter the outdoor temp is usually around 25, and can drop to 0 (Toronto, Canada)

 

[Eldorado2k]

Thanks for your input.

I would love to store the synthetic clay in my house but I am an OCD germaphobe... I can't just put it in my house unless perfectly cleaned and washed.

So can I wash the synthetic clay with hand soap? Or regular bar of soap?

I leave mine to dry in the washroom [usually on top of the washer or dryer]
Remember it’s clean at that point, it’s simply hanging out to dry where no dust can land on it.

No don’t use bar soap... No girly hand soap either. Use your car wash from your bucket. Water from the hose nozzle works fine as well, just don’t go crazy and shoot it on Jet setting. Lol. Use the shower setting and give it a good rinse.

Also keep in mind that the way synthetic clay works is by “shaving” the contaminants off the surface, whereas traditional claybar picks it up and hangs onto the contaminants. That’s why you never have to nead the claymitt, because it’s not exactly accumulating all the contaminants the same way you’re used to with claybar. It still could use an occasional rinsing as you go along, but nowhere near how the claybar needs neading.

 

[mrq0604]

I leave mine to dry in the washroom [usually on top of the washer or dryer]
Remember it’s clean at that point, it’s simply hanging out to dry where no dust can land on it.

No don’t use bar soap... No girly hand soap either. Use your car wash from your bucket. Water from the hose nozzle works fine as well, just don’t go crazy and shoot it on Jet setting. Lol. Use the shower setting and give it a good rinse.

Also keep in mind that the way synthetic clay works is by “shaving” the contaminants off the surface, whereas traditional claybar picks it up and hangs onto the contaminants. That’s why you never have to nead the claymitt, because it’s not exactly accumulating all the contaminants the same way you’re used to with claybar. It still could use an occasional rinsing as you go along, but nowhere near how the claybar needs neading.

Thank you.

One more question

You and another poster mentioned rinsing the synthetic clay after a couple of panels. Can I use the synthetic clay even when it's wet?

 

[Eldorado2k]

Thank you.

One more question

You and another poster mentioned rinsing the synthetic clay after a couple of panels. Can I use the synthetic clay even when it's wet?

Using it while it’s wet is the absolute most important thing you better be doing when using the claymitt. Preferably dripping wet while also spraying the panel with a separate spray bottle creating its own soaking wet situation of the panel and then spraying a bit more as you go along... Yea, that’s how you use a claymitt and survive without having any marring. I do it all the time and I’ve been asked by other detailers why I use so much claylube? My reply is because my goal is to not marr the heck out of the paint like you do. [not you] Lol.