New Collinite quick detailer

Not directed at you but just so noone else gets in trouble, are we allowed to talk about this product even though this particular product isn't sold on AG I would hate to see someone get in trouble for discussing a product not sold in the AG store.

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Klasse Act - I think we are "OK". AG is probably one of the biggest sellers of Collinite, and we know AG will have it on it's shelves (so to speak) any day now. Besides, I think these discussions generate interest/curiosity which I am sure helps boost sales.

ScottH
 
Not directed at you but just so noone else gets in trouble, are we allowed to talk about this product even though this particular product isn't sold on AG I would hate to see someone get in trouble for discussing a product not sold in the AG store.

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You will see it on here very soon! ;)

I don’t think anyone else had any doubts about whether this thread was ok after reading Meghans’ reply.
 
OK, perplexed to say the least. I did a traditional two bucket and hose wash. As I started spraying down the car, I couldn't help but notice the areas that had been WW with D115 were beading and sheeting water like a fresh wax job. The hood and the trunk with Collinite 520 on (which had been treated with D115 the same time the rest of the car had been about 48 hours before the Collinite 520 was used) was far worse with water behavior. The trunk lid especially was not beading at all, nor was it moving water. The hood was a little better with water sheeting, but limited beading. I proceeded to wash the car with Duragloss car wash. This had no effect on the rest of the car/D115 as nothing diminished. It did bring back the Collinite 520 hood a little, beading returned, but was not small spherical type of droplets like we have all come to know with Collinite. The beads were oblong, reminded me of the look when your wax/sealant is full of contaminants. Water sheeting was present, but very, very slow.

Now keep in mind, the car needs clayed, the paint cleaned and a fresh coat of wax/sealant. With that said, it didn't seem to effect the D115 at all. Maybe the D115 interfered with the Collinite 520 adhering. Who knows. I'll try it again after my next full detail (decon, paint cleaned, fresh wax/sealant), hope to get to it in early June.
 
OK, perplexed to say the least. I did a traditional two bucket and hose wash. As I started spraying down the car, I couldn't help but notice the areas that had been WW with D115 were beading and sheeting water like a fresh wax job. The hood and the trunk with Collinite 520 on (which had been treated with D115 the same time the rest of the car had been about 48 hours before the Collinite 520 was used) was far worse with water behavior. The trunk lid especially was not beading at all, nor was it moving water. The hood was a little better with water sheeting, but limited beading. I proceeded to wash the car with Duragloss car wash. This had no effect on the rest of the car/D115 as nothing diminished. It did bring back the Collinite 520 hood a little, beading returned, but was not small spherical type of droplets like we have all come to know with Collinite. The beads were oblong, reminded me of the look when your wax/sealant is full of contaminants. Water sheeting was present, but very, very slow.

Now keep in mind, the car needs clayed, the paint cleaned and a fresh coat of wax/sealant. With that said, it didn't seem to effect the D115 at all. Maybe the D115 interfered with the Collinite 520 adhering. Who knows. I'll try it again after my next full detail (decon, paint cleaned, fresh wax/sealant), hope to get to it in early June.
I’ll call it:
”Easy come; easy goes”.

Keep in mind that there is relationship that exists
between water-beading and surface energies.
In this case:
1.) the surface energy of the paint; and
2.) the surface energy of water.

TO WIT:

In order for water to bead (exhibit hydrophobicity),
the surface energy of the paint needs to be lower
than the surface energy of water.

*****************************************

-Just as there are many car-care products
(such as LSPs) that will produce the surface
energies needed to cause hydrophobic effects:
the ”Easy come”...

-Conversely, there are many car-care products
that can change these energy levels to the point
where hydrophobic properties can be negatively
affected—water beading lessens; becomes irregu-
larly shaped; even stops (becomes “hydrophilic”):
the ”Easy goes”.


•Believe it or not:
QDs are one such type of car-care product that
can change those surface energies. (And don’t
forget the adverse affect that atmospheric and
environmental contaminates can have on the
“symbiotic” relationship between auto paint and
water beads/beading.)

*************************************

Bottom line?

•IMO:
-QDs are formulated to give the
”Just Detailed” look;

-not particularly, or necessarily, for creating
surface energies that are conducive for water
to bead upon paint.



Bob
 
I think everyone needs to take a few deep breaths. Can't have this turn into one of those wax war. Or Zaino is just rebadged DG threads.

People all see and use things differently. For instance, I use 914 for a RW, love it for that. I ABSOLUTELY hate it for a WW, diluted at the recommended dilution. I prefer DG 931 as a WW.

There are different levels of Geek. The older I get, I want ease of use and 90% PERFECTION. I have two old daily drivers, they look better than 95% of the cars I see. That's good enough for me.

I have been very fortunate in life. My wife and I will be retiring in another 2.5 years at 55. I want to spend those fun years living life, and having a shiny, 90% swirl free car. You can have both.
Why do you hate N914 as a WW but love it as a RW? When following the directions for RW it's just about invisible, kinda freaks me out whereas with WW I can actually SEE it. I still double the ratio for WW, it's so inexpensive and effective, why not

Now before the left coast gets all worked up this is how I see it, what works for me isn't going to work for you (except that "almost" drinkable spray sealant...oh wait, that now DOES work for you, room at the back of the bandwagon)....UNCLE!

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Oh yeah and BTW, tried out those $6.00 MSRP towels from the Rag Company, the Eagle Edgeless. I washed them before using and they are soft and appear to be a great quality towel but my preferred brand @$4.40 per are just as good, sorry. Maybe I need to buy one of their drying towels and see how they compare to what I'm using

Btw I'm not worried about $1.60 per towel either, it's all about principal, that's all

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Oh yeah and BTW, tried out those $6.00 MSRP towels from the Rag Company, the Eagle Edgeless. I washed them before using and they are soft and appear to be a great quality towel but my preferred brand @$4.40 per are just as good, sorry. Maybe I need to buy one of their drying towels and see how they compare to what I'm using

Btw I'm not worried about $1.60 per towel either, it's all about principal, that's all

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Their msrp in pack of 5 for 24$. =$4.80. And the RC will throw out sales like Memorial Day for 20% off. This makes them cheaper.

Also looks like he doesn’t offer free shipping. I’ve been waiting and looking for. Also would bet their from China which to me doesn’t matter as I think quality is same. But Chinese MF is price wise cheaper.

So 5 waiting for once a month sale is $4.80 cheaper, will ship free if I spend $50 which most of my detailing purchases and are made from more expensive (not saying better but possibly). And are one of the more popular towels ever made.



No disrespect Klasse, just pointing out how his”industry is over charging/gouging us” and now that he has products he’s joining the party.

Jacks are worth all that. If I can get free shipping OR 20% of I’ll try them though.





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There is a level of free shipping with "him" all the time. As far as the price, well, I was just going off the MSRP of what was listed here, ofcoarse I didn't pay $6.00 per, so in reality the only people who pay full price are those who get them without hitting a minimum amount, so I guess it's not fair to bring up the savings in reality.

Back on topic of this thread for a minute, I was going to buy this product directly from Collinite because I wanted it NOW, then I saw $14.00 shipping....for a 16 oz bottle, LOL, no thanks, I can wait it out

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Klasse, I find 914 very difficult to wipe off at WW dilution. It takes more micro fibers to get a dry surface. I do not have this issue with it at a RW dilution.
 
Klasse, I find 914 very difficult to wipe off at WW dilution. It takes more micro fibers to get a dry surface. I do not have this issue with it at a RW dilution.

That’s interesting and I sort of know what you mean now that you mention it (never thought of it before). I was just thinking maybe I’ll try doubling concentration to 1:64 per Klasse’s comment, but I would guess this would add to whatever wipe-off difficulty you are mentioning that I acknowledge.

Decisions, decisions.
 
Maybe it is the Pittsburgh atmosphere?? On a side note, anybody else ever think 914 is just Megs D114 with different coloring? I swear Megs sold the formula to McKees. It is almost exactly the same in my opinion.
 
On a side note, anybody else ever think 914 is
just Megs D114 with different coloring?
I swear Megs sold the formula to McKees.
It is almost exactly the same in my opinion.
•I don’t think it is. However:

-I’m not going to swear for, or against, the
ownership of D114’s formulation being bandied
about, or not. (BTW: doesn’t Griot’s Garage also
lay claim to a “D114-ish” product?)

-Then again:
reverse engineering is not a novel idea.


Regardless:
Meguiar’s D114 is, IMO, still the undisputed
champion in the realm of alternative car wash-
ing products that “leaves nothing behind”.




Bob
 
Well, I believe what your saying about hard to remove because there's no reason to lie but my experience is 180 degrees in the opposite direction when using it as a WW. I will say that in addition to using 2 ounces per gallon for WW ratio, I believe it says 1 ounce on the jug, I also make it up using distilled water because I make a gallon at a time and I don't want anything breaking down the product, maybe try distilled

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Well, I believe what your saying about hard to remove because there's no reason to lie but my experience is 180 degrees in the opposite direction when using it as a WW. I will say that in addition to using 2 ounces per gallon for WW ratio, I believe it says 1 ounce on the jug, I also make it up using distilled water because I make a gallon at a time and I don't want anything breaking down the product, maybe try distilled

I always use distilled for all mixing. The removal isn’t enough of an issue to stop me from using it all the time, but it does take an extra drying pass compared to gloss-enhancing WWs. Nothing major.
 
Klasse, I find 914 very difficult to wipe off at WW dilution. It takes more micro fibers to get a dry surface. I do not have this issue with it at a RW dilution.
Hmm that is very interesting. I wonder why that might be. I recently started using N 914 as a WW. I've never been a fan of WW before but N 914 has made me a believer and I personally haven't experienced the difficulties you have.

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I'll give it another shot. Last time I tried it was 34 degrees in my garage, maybe that had an effect. I wonder if changing to 1\64 will help?
 
Temp is key with everything

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I'll give it another shot. Last time I tried it was 34 degrees in my garage, maybe that had an effect. I wonder if changing to 1\64 will help?

If you do try 1:64, please let me know your thoughts. I have half a gallon to use before trying a different dilution, but if it works great in your environment I would gladly follow suit. :)
 
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